BigMatt

here is the link to the pic http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv182/mattrentz_2009/Yamaha%20Banshee/

I bought a mod quad billet kick starter so I tried this on my old rattling one, I took it apart and cleaned and wire wheeled all rust out of it, than took the two halfs apart, I grinded the top of the kicker lever to a flat smooth surface than drilled and tapped a hole in the middle for the grease fitting, now the second half(the part that has the spring and ball & attaches to the kicker axle) I cut with a cut off wheel a grease channel from the top all the way to the spring and ball assy, this way grease can travel from the fitting to the ball and spring, and finaly pushed a O-ring into the bottom of the first half (the kicker lever) so that no grease gets out and no dust or sand gets in, Now i can not post large enough photos so I posted a link to my photobucket so you can see in detail its also explaind there to under the pic, I have had this for 3 month now and no rattle it only coasted me $3.00 let me no what you think! was it a wast of time! here the link with larger photos http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv182/mattrentz_2009/Yamaha%20Banshee/ things you need: O-ring $0.55 Grease fitting $1.30 dremmel with cut off wheel drill, drill bit and tap, grease gun.

I'm looking for the stock chain tensioner's when I bought my bike i was missing the right side thanks

hey buddy, one thing I did to the stock kicker to stop rattle, I took it all apart cheaned and grinded the top of the kicker flat and a added a grease fitting than a O-ring between the two halfs, also cut a grease channel from the top of the part that mounts to the kicker axle, all the way to the spring and ball. so when I pump grease into the kicker it travels to the ball and spring. hope this makes sense if not I can send you pics I have ha it this way for 3 months holds up well.

i'll have to look for a plastic battery box to fit those.

those are pretty cool, never seen em before, i'll have to try those thanks.

yes... but you would have to run them of something regulated like the tail light, but before you do take a multimeter and check the amps and the volts out of the leed you wanna tap out of, make sure while you test it someone rev's up the bike, because I'm not sure of the out put on the stock stator threw the tail light. always test one LED before you go ahead and hook them all up, Why wouldn't you want to use the battery? it will be brighter with the two 9v than stator, And it last a really long time.

oh by the way I ran 5 LED pods 1 in the rear another over the carbs with a custom mount I made, 1 more by the coil and 2 in the grill, the ones in the grill have a quick disconnect for when I take the grill on and off, I can snap photos for you if you want.

here is where I got them from there waterproof and unlike neon hold up very well to vibraitions and shock and use very little power, just dont use the connection terminals he supplys I found them to be cheap its better to hard wire them together. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400081155055&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I got them off ebay, I power them off the same batteries my trail tech computer runs off, LED's draw very little power so I could run these all day on a single 9volt, I'm not a big fan of powering anything off the stator because the banshee electrical system is noisy enough. but by wiring a single 9volt in series with another you can get 18volts whitch will give you the same run time as a single 9volt just alot brighter. You have to make sure your LED's can handle that voltage though. here is a link to help you better understand series and parallel circuits http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr151/zakkwyldefan79/EMG%252018v%2520Mod/EMG18VoltMod3.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php%3Ft%3D941907&usg=___vXBfrjvSdauGhTSEK4CcgkDaGY=&h=540&w=720&sz=33&hl=en&start=26&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=BfNXbanyLL3W0M:&tbnh=105&tbnw=140&prev=/images%3Fq%3D9%2Bvolt%2Bbattery%2Bin%2Bseries%26start%3D21%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26ndsp%3D21%26tbs%3Disch:1

sorry for mis-spelling and grammar, I didn't see it till its to late.

when I first bought my vector computer I hooked it up to a 9volt battery whitch is great, because you dont relay on a running bike, but you need 12volts or more to activate all the screen LEDs, so with a single 9volt battery your backlite screen seems dim, my saloution 2 9volt batterys wired in series whitch gives you the same run time as a single 9volt but double the volts, at 18volts all rear screen LEDs light up nice and bright. I contacted trail tech support befor trying this and asked them what the max volts a trail tech computer can handle the awnser a whopping 400volts, so i went a head and hooked them up, I bought a plastic box from radio shack $4.00 and some 9volt connectors $3.00, mini switches$3.00, mounted the box on the backside of my overflow bottle mount, than I mounted all electroninc in it with sealent so its waterproof, because I also am running a complete LED underglow kit of the same 18volt pack, I left both on over night and they where still lite the next day. also do not use these cheap butt connectors after time they trap water, always solder and shrink tube. I have many photos of my set up on my photobucket http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv182/mattrentz_2009/Yamaha%20Banshee/

what about candy blue with gray.... or candy purple and black

could you imagine if that was your job I'd never hit the snooze button!

ya If I could find good and cheap I would own alot more banshee' s, I do have a grey and blue 1992 stock, needs new top end compression below a 100 for $800.00 all else seem's ok I think it needs a petcock replaced or cleaned as well because its not gettin gas to the carbs, I dont have pic's but I could get them.

it seems to be stronger up and down but if you move it side to side seems to be weaker than stock. all in all its ok,

is golden spectro any good or just high priced junk? I ride trails and i clutch alot to keep up with my 4 stroke friends and I want a good oil for the long run, my local Magic racing recomended it, but I dont hear any of you guys running it so thought i'd ask,

i just order this one last week after i found a crack in the chain, thanks guys

I dont know what happend in the above post LOL, while the carbs are off, check the intake boots(the black rubber you removed the carbs from) for cracks and holes, The heavy boost bottle likes to rip those, Also while carbs are out check all the vent and overflow lines, if you like stuff new like me... I just replace them for a few bucks I think I bought helix, on older banshee's they tend to be brittle. than clean the carbs out real good, you'll also want to replace all fluids on the account you dont ever want to trust the guy you bought it from. best place to look for banshee part is on here, there are tons of sponser's that are willing to help, also just type banshee in google and you'll come up with alot of stuff, just stick to good companys.

do a compression test to find out, also YES banshee have a tuff throttle due to the dual carbs

I just had to do all this to, what causes this? is it avoidable? is there any thing I can do to fix this before it happens again?

i'll chime in i always wondered to if these are woth it. I have a stock swinger tho-

fixed it your pretty knowledgeable about this have you done this or own a rz350? I guess the tranny is out of the question, I thought it mite be bad for trail riding because of the street gearing, but is there an advantage to the power valve system on a banshee or is it a wast of time and money? could you run the rz350 jugs to match the head? thanks man

Is it worth it to put the RZ350 power valve system on a banshee motor? aslo what about the tranny, I know the RZ350 has a different tranny. here is a video I found on youtube with it done