BigMatt

thank you sir! by the way I think a pipe wrench would work better than a 15" crescent wrench LOL

what size socket fits the smaller front sprocket nut? I have to make a run to sears tomorrow, I dont feel like popping of the stator cover to check, I change the sprocket before with a standerd socket, but if I remember right it was alittle loose, so guessing it's METRIC. thanks

there are two dif connectors rectangle and triangle/oval on the newer years. I had this problem. those head lights arn't 06 there older. alot of e-bay sellers dont know that.

for one of your first post you sure got alot of hits! thanxs guys for the laugh... had a rough day, this sure was funny.

i second the torch, worked for me, some times I use turtle wax, it makes a nice shine.

I'm 6'4'' 270lb and ride tight trails I run a 14t-44t and love it, 44t is as big as you could go for clearing the rear stock skid. I only have mild mods to (not sure on size but slight bore, wiseco pistons, port & polish, +4 timming, FMF fattys, tors gone)

i attached a visegrip to a slide hammer put junk spark plugs back in, clamp visegrip to one spark plug... bing, bang, boom, works every time just go slow with light taps since its alloy and work back and forth between plugs.

when mine lost shine I hit them with a torch brought it rate back, just watch its easy to melt if you dont pay attention

I sheard a key once because I torqued the nut down and it turned out the threads were messed up on the crank from the last tard, So it read tight but was in fact loose, they were messed up just enough to wear I couldnt see it.

I think I got these shades in a happy meal once LOL.

first off my bike has FMF fattys, trail ported & polished, wiesco pistons, and I just advanced my timming +4 and am running klots 40-1 on 93oct. well just after advancing my timming I took my bike out it idle great started good but after it got warmed up it would go in sperts where it would rev up real high for about 2sec's then return back to idle after burpping the throttle, so today I wanted to find out what it is so took it out again, road great and once fully warmed up it did the same thing except now its not returning back to idle. now every time I start is up it revs real high and I am afraid of blowing the motor and when I hit the kill switch it dieseled for a bit. I checked my cable seems fine, took off my pods and looked at my slides they are working right and synced. my next guess is a air leak but not sure where to look? is there a leak down tester you can buy for the banshee? or do I have to make my own like the guy on this site and how well does that work? also I did switch out the boost bottle that came with the bike for a cross over tube but the boots seem to be in good shape, could this have anything to do with my timming? what are all the seals that could cause this? thanks

is someone going to kiss LOL....

I was thinking about buffing my plastic's, my idea was to start off with some 220 sand paper than 300, 500, 600, 1200 than torch to get the gloss back and then go over it with a buffing wheel, has anyone tried this also is there a better way. tell me what you think!

this is very good info... learnedalot to day, thanks

thanks man, how much did you pay for it? I want to switch mine because it was sticking alittle the other day.

thanks for all the good info, my jetting and mix would be great for dunes, when I rip on it hard the plugs look good, its when I trail ride they look alittle dark.

whats a good throttle cable?

so im good? thanks guys got a trip planed to silver lake and want to make sure is all good!

my compression is around 120-125 warm, I know race fuel prevents it. but was wondering if I was rich on oil, than that could in turn... dilute the gas bringing the octane level down causing detonation, I could be wrong just want to make sure. also I have a stock head with no milling. i ment to type Wiseco pistons

I just advanced my timming +4 my setup is trail port, wesco pistons. I'm alittle worried about detonation, all though I'm running 93oct/ 40-1 r-50 klots, its alittle oil rich, my plugs are just alittlle dark unless all I do is rip on it than there golden, I'm going to try 50-1 but was wondering I dont want to start mixing race fuel but am alittle nervouse about detonation is there any way to tell if your detonating before its to late, I know about plugs coming loose, but mine are socked down, what should you tourque your spark plugs down to L.B. if there to tight than detonation wont lossen them will it? thanks alot guys,

I always have trouble putting on my clutch cover, cant line the retaining clip in the hole in the case, does anyone have any tricks? or am I on my own.

I run gold spectro wet clutch and it is 80w magic racing said to run it, should i switch?

I did.... got the same reading from stock to the modquad slotted one 180 on a 74degree day I just did the same trail facing the same way with both grills, than shot the radiator. I did put a small piece of black tap because temp guns wont read anything accurate if its shiny, I always wondered that to in fact before I got my grill I looked for some thing with good flow but smaller slots I didnt want rock ruining my oversized billet rad. heres pics of my grill youll have to look threw a few to find it. http://s682.photobucket.com/albums/vv182/mattrentz_2009/Yamaha%20Banshee/

also It would not be a bad Ideal to set that radiator on a work bench, take a small screw driver and straighten them fins.

you cant shoot anything shiny with a temp gun and get a accurate reading. I cant remember right but i think the bottom hose should be warmer than the top rad to head hose. how long does it take to get to 160? 160 is a good temp, but not if it gets there in a minute or two. I dont let mine get above 200, than I shut her down, one thing you could do for alittle insurance... If you got the cash buy a trail tech computer, I got one and it saved me from frying some rings at the dunes last year.