BigMatt

I raced my buddies outlander and won but not by much, we raced on the street but we didnt go far because of how loud and all the cops around, my banshee is piped, ported, but I ran 12 44 gearing so on the top end he would kill me I'll tell you those are wicked fast for utility quads, I did get a chance to run it on some trails handles bumps well and smooth, but fast turns not so great felt like I was on two wheels or about to be most the time. I guess soon enough utility quads and sport quads will be one... hit the mud early maybe take a few tress out and hit the race track later LOL. they just hook up like a mother. just remember when your switching gears and get any type of tire slip all four of his wheels will be gripping that ground, plus he has weight to get all that 800 to hook up, look at this clip

i just saw a one bolt on each jug kinda in the middle of the jug and was not sure if this was to aid in bleeding.

thanks guys i didnt think you had to just making sure.

when you have to drain the coolant and fill it up do you have to bleed it like on a car? I swapped out for I high flow impeller and was wondering if I have to bleed it or will the air just work it's way out? thanks, Matt

Where is the black and white stripped wire? is it in the stock kill switch? also will a frame ground work? I just got this tether and am now installing it wanna make sure its right.

what doe's this mod do? I dont know much about it but sounds good thanks.

you mite be able to take those to like a discount tire, and have the grooves cut into them. They cut a grid across the hole tire, they did it to my jeep tires helps stop faster and gives better grip in snow also can even help in hydro planning,

sorry for all the question, just gotta love the wealth of knowledge on this site. anyway when I bought my banshee the man before me spend all the money in the motor witch is great... ported, polished, pipes, milled head, board, Wesco pistons etc. I only payed $1,500 witch the bike was worth at least $2,200 from what I have seen online, but the bike has no comforts seat was ripped up, no head lights, no ignition switch, and I wanted to install a stock ignition switch back on i ( it wasn't stolen I have the title) my question is, are all stock ignition switch's compatible or is it like the head lights were newer 2000 and up models have oval connectors and older have square ones? is it plug and play or did he have to cut it out to remove it?

Thanks man

all right, I started to remove the engine and wanted to know where is the best place to remove the clutch cable? should I just unhook it from the handle bar lever and drag it threw with the motor or take it apart some where on the motor? thanks, Matt

hey guys, I want to pull my motor for some cleaning and paint, I have never done this before so I have a few questions. In whitch order is it best to remove the engine mounts? is there any tricks that will help me? I was looking at repair manuals on ebay for spec's there was a CD version and then there are paper backs what do you guys use? also I have aftermarket radiator hose's(blue) while the motor is out, I would like to replace the short hose coming from the water impeller to the head(there is a little wear to it), do you guys know where I can find this hose? doe's anyone make them in blue? also the smaller hose from the top of head to the top of the radiator, where can I find this and does anyone make these in blue? can any one tell me the I.D. of this small hose? I looked at Helix water and oil hose but there web site said not to use on coolant lines.

whats up nice to see another Michigan rider near me, I mostly ride upnorth but me and a few buddies get together and drag behind my house I live off 21mile and vandyke behind the powerlines(edison feilds) and there nothing but long stretches of feild so we get a few beers and drag. just make sure you come with a cup holder mounted to your bikeLOL

yesterday I watch my buddy start his ATV and noticed he did not hold the clutch in when he started it. Now I am no pro and did not want to correct him in case I was wrong but dont you have to hold the clutch in when starting, He is not the smartest guy, I aslo noticed riding behind him that he does not hold the clutch in when down shifting, Dont you have to? Like I said I'm no pro And i'm the only one with a manual ATV in my family, could use some tips also. are there other tips or tricks I should know about shifting and is there do's and don'ts I should know to thanks guys.

I used these magnum pro peg $150.00 free shipping http://leclarepowersports.com/proddetail.php?prod=MG-0007blue/8black there cheap and light come in blue or black and have a built in peg there very sturdy to, I dont use the heel guards with them though.

ya I typed it in again and came up with alot, but than again I'm typing to you in safe mode rate now sometime this computer works others not! I guess I'll pick one up thanks Guys, while I'm here... what grease fitting do you guys use that fits the banshee. I bought a new grease gun just for it and the fitting that came with it does not fit. what do you guys use and where do you get them?

I search the hq and came up with nothing, have any of you used these G-FORCE axle's. I came across a axle strength chart. have know Idea if its true. but take a look. G-FORCE and DURABLUE scored the lowest G-Force Is better than DURABLUE according to this chart. The G-FORCE axles are cheap, and was looking to replace the stock one. I mostly trail ride, and go to silver lake every now and again. AXLE STRENGHT CHART http://team-rpm.com/axle_strength_test.htm

I'm using a master link setup, I'm up north rate now so when I get home l'll take a look at how to grind them, With out the bike in front of me its tuff to picture what your talking about, I thought about getting on the bike a strapping around the grab bar to the axle while I was on it this way its set to my sag when I get off. Also do you think a plastic case saver is a good Idea with a 12t, and for the little clip that pops over the master link, I have heard of guys super gluing them on and to take them off you just heat them up. Doe's this work? thanks for all you r help guy!

ya I heard the same thing I was looking into a plastic one but they cost more than the damn billet ones, my buddy had one and said if he did not have a billet case save he mite not have cracked his case, but the plastic one's are a bit more forgiving i'll look a little online for one thanks

funny you said that, I just bought new sprockets front and rear, im running a 12 up front and a 46 in the rear, I mostly trail ride. but do you guys run case savers they sound like a good idea?

How tight or how lose should it be? I dont want to gage it based on the chain that is on there now because a tech did'nt put it on, it was the owner before me, also is a case saver a good idea?

All right I know installing a new chain cant be that hard looks simple, But I know tension is important, How tight should this chain be? is there any tricks I should know about? what are things to look out for? I got new rollers sliders and a chain so I'm waiting to install them, I just had a buddy install his and the chain was not tight enough or to tight and it came off cracking the engine case so figured I ask away! thanks, Matt

ya I have look over my bike(1999) and am still stunned oh how there welds pass quality control wait can anyone say Toyota LOL

I'd build my own to, nothing like knowing there's some good tuff welds laid down!

thats what I was thinking was the drain screw, but its only on one side (left) how does it drain the other? thats why I never messed with it because it didn't make sense that it was only on one carb. Thanks for all your help guys!

hey thanks alot guys i hope thats all it is so far thats what every one has told me, Shift Shaft, I'll take a look. sounds like thats it only because its not doing it all the time & its only 4th so far!