Fast-Fibers

I have a set as well and yes it is a pain, especially when the packing is soaked. If you think getting the old out sucks, getting the new back in is about as bad! Good luck man!

Thanks guys! I am excited to be a part of a this great site, and look forward to helping you out in any way that I can! Please check out my site to see my full line of banshee fenders, and check back often for new parts. I am working on 250R and YFZ450 glass, and will be posting a full line of motorcycle fenders and Hot Rod parts!!!! Thanks, Brad

I would not suggest running comps on the dunes. I set my comps for drag racing at 1/2" of travel.

Might be interested in the swingarm if you part it!

Do you happen to have any front exhaust hangers laying around JD?

Where did you get on for $20 shipped? I can only find them for $30+ shipping.

Just like pondtunes said its basically the same process as welding metal. Unless you sand it down and paint it when you are done you will always be able to spot the repaired area, mostly because of discoloration of the heat affected zone and the color of the filler plastic. Just like like anything else take your time, double check yourself and practice on scrap.

I own a manx buggy myself and have to say that these things are a blast! Wouldn't sell mine for anything! Good luck with your sale!

Depends on the trails, I would suggest dragging tree branches across them, bu that goes for any fender. Other than that there is no reason they wont perform the same as OEM.

If you were talking to me just check out my website at www.fast-fibers.com

Posting for a friend, Looking for a used +6 chrome swingarm, round or stock style. Let me know what you've got! Brad Fast-Fibers

No worries about the tone haha I take this as a discussion not an arguement. And yes my bikes are on gas and I never said that everyone should run 80:1 but that is what I run. Like I said my little 350 ran for 3 years that way with no problem and the only reason I tore it down was because the clutch basket exploded. This motor made 91HP on NMotions dyno and ran a 4.42 in a stock chassis at atoka. I guess my point is that I use amsoil 1: becuase i can get it for a good price and 2: because I use less oil. I have also talked to some guys that ride snomos that run it at 100:1 with no problems

I agree that if you don't want to pay $12 a quart you need a buddy that is a dealer...........but since I run it at 80:1 I use a lot less oil.

I use amsoil in my drag bikes mixed at 80:1. Been running them at this mix for 3 years with no problem! My buddy is an amsoil dealer so i get a good price.

They are slightly lighter than stock fenders. They are cut with a router and then smoothed with sand paper

Yea the fiberglass isn't as flexible as the oem stuff. With a stock gas tank I suggest that you pick the bars up to install the hood. You don't have to remove any of the controls just loosen the bars pick them up and slide it on, its pretty simple. I however run an aluminum tank and they just slide right on.

I have never had a mill gauge on them so I'm not 100% positive on an exact measurement, also I spray them so they will vary slightly from fender to fender. The are similar in weight to stock fenders (little lighter). I would suggest that if you live close to JD to just go check them out and let me know what you think!

One piece fronts are not for everybody, I run them 1: because I make them 2: because its hard to beat a seamless paint job and 3: I rarely if ever remove the fenders to work on the bike. The only thing under the hood is the radiator and fuel tank and all else can be reached from underneath. Even if you need to remove them they have half as many mounting screws and can be completely removed as quick a 3 piece can be disassembled. It all boils down to personal preference.

I spray these fenders so they are more flexible than a hand laid fender. Fiberglass is very flexible if you allow it to be which is why I suggest that a rubber grommet be used at all mounting points on trail bikes. Carbon fiber however is not flexible at all and in fact is very brittle. Draw back to glass is you have to paint it!

I still do the drag fenders as well, they are like you said just trimmed up a little more than the stockers.

I can do them in full carbon but because of the shape they have to have seems in the fabric which I do not like. I prefer to do carbon inlays within the fiberglass where you can have your painter tape off a design and have the carbon come through the paint job. This is much cheaper option and still gives you the REAL carbon effect. For banshees and motorcycles there is no real weight or strength advantage of carbon fiber over fiberglass it is simply a cosmetic piece.

I thought I would show you some of the other pieces I have made since I got into composites. These fenders have been laying around for a while, but the carbon one was just finished for a friend. I have many more fender molds for motorcycles front and rear ranging from 4" to 11" wide in several styles!

I get mine from Vitos

Drilling two or four holes in a chassis will do absolutely nothing to the integrity of the tubing. As engineers we are trained to "over engineer" all products that are to be sold to the general public. especially those in motorsports. Its a liability issue. Most of the gussets and tabs can be removed from the stock chassis and still be safe to ride.

The weld in version would be cool and make for a very clean installation!! Great Idea.