So Cal Suspension

He is somewhere near Fontana, CA... but he's using a cellphone, so who knows where his location actually is... Correction: He is in Desert Hot Springs, CA... Near Palm Springs.

I have a set of Non Reservoir Works Dual rates that I was going to polish and powdercoat, but if you want them cheap, I can do them for $275 shipped. Freshly rebuilt. In-fact, so fresh, that they haven't been done yet. The powdercoat on the springs is about a 7 out of 10. The shocks are fully functional, and will work like new when I rebuild them. Upper bushings need to be replaced, which I will put brand new ones in as well, with new spacers. So, in conclusion, practically brand new shocks, just with not-so-pretty powdercoat. $275 shipped. Let me know if you're interested and I will get them finished.

I will be heading out just to watch. Always a good time!

How much do you weigh? I might have a set for sale this week.

Bring him back! I had fun editing all of his posts...

Won't even be a race... He can hit rocks the size of bowling balls and not even feel it!

Another thing I just thought of... Why would you invest so much time and money into something that started as shit, and will die as shit? Why wouldn't you just buy an LT80 or something?

I wonder if these quads could hit rocks the size of bowling balls at 60, and not think twice about it?

You'll be alone, my friend.

This thread has a striking similarity to the SLORYDER DIY porting thread.

Odds are they will not need to be revalved. I would recommend trying them first as is, before spending any unnecessary money on them. If they do need springs, I can get you the springs for around $50each. You will only need the two primary springs. BansheeR1, I have replied to your PM as well.

Haha, When I was growing up we lived on two different golf courses. That never happened, but my parents never let my brother and I have the back bedrooms of the house, in case a ball came flying through a window. Should have blamed whoever you were playing with.

Weird.

I can vouch for those Ohlins. They are the same ones I would sell you, if you were to buy them new... just without the new pricetag.

Is there a reason you specifically want Ohlins? I am on Ohlins dealer, and can get you whatever it is, you need.

If you do a lot of riding in and around mud and water, you might want to pick up the comprehensive kit. The sleeves and bolts tend to rust, and you might have issues getting your old ones out. This kit is sold by Mattoon Machine (A BHQ Sponsor). If you have some down time, disassemble your front end, and see what parts you need, before you order anything. More than likely, if you can get your bolts and sleeves out, these bushings will be all you need. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/320694797173?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm39%26_nkw%3D320694797173%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

x2. I ran those PIAA bulbs. They are pricey, but in my opinion, well worth it. I have heard of people running the knock-off TUSK ones (about $10ea) with good success.

Your specific setup is going to be based on how much you weigh. Every bike I set up, I set up differently for that specific rider. Another tip: If you do a lot of mud riding, DO NOT run shock-wears (Covers). Shock-wears do more damage than good in wet environments. They trap moisture, and inhibit rust and seal rot. When you are shopping for shocks, avoid triple rate shocks. Banshee's are way too heavy to utilize that third spring, whatsoever. Dual rates are the way to go. You will be wasting money with anything more than a dual rate. If you do a lot of tight trail riding, maybe consider keeping the stock arms, to avoid being too wide for some trails. Stock length swinger, or a +2 will give you additional leverage on your rear shock, and will give a softer, more plush ride. Again, though, your weight is going to be the primary factory in what setup I would recommend. For about 80% of people, a set of good, dual rate shocks with reservoirs, and a revalved stock rear is the way to go. If you absolutely must go aftermarket on the rear, at least get an aftermarket shock that has the same adjustability of your stock rear, so you are not downgrading from your stock rear. (Rebound, compression, and threaded preload). That would be something similar to an Elka stage 3, or Works Black Widow. ($800-$900) As far as the 450 front end goes, I'm pretty sure most people know where I stand on this. I don't recommend it, UNLESS you can get the stuff very very cheap. Less than $300, for everything: Shocks, arms, spindles, tie rods, brakes, and hubs. If you do go the 450 front end route, Expect that your shocks will need to be revalved, and possibly resprung. Dual rate spring kits are around $250.00 for the pair. If you have any other questions, feel free to give me a call, or shoot me an email. All my contact information is below.

The most reliable power you can make is with porting. A good port job, +4 timing and a good set of pipes. Those t6's will choke up a port job.

You can use almost any LED product with your stock setup, with the exception of high-power LED's. High power LED's require a very specific input voltage. Usually within a range of 1/2 of a volt. Obviously you've watched your stock lights dim at idle, and get super bright at full throttle. The reason for this is halogen and incandescent bulbs will operate on just about any voltage, up to a certain voltage. I've never run a 450 rear light, but I have tested numerous LED products on a Banshee electrical system, and think it will work just fine.

You're welcome! =) As said before, you can pick up a set of used Works Performance shocks for less than that. I actually have two sets for sale this week if you're interested. One is a dual rate, non reservoir. One set is a triple rate, non reservoir. Both sets will be rebuilt/revalved prior to shipping, and custom spring powdercoat, is available as well. PM me if you'd be interested.

Don't waste your money. Progressive Suspension is about 1/100th of a step up from your stock shocks. They are awful.

I'm going with a pretty major air leak if you just redid the top end.

What is your jetting currently at, and what is your elevation and ambient air temp. Or just light it on fire.