So Cal Suspension

Haha. They made it there fast. Shipped out on Friday!

Sorry to break up all you guys' faggotry, but check out the raffle thread that JL just posted. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=145316

Yes. Contact JD from JDS Customs. He can custom make you any grille you want for very reasonable prices. His username is 87sheerips. Here is his website with the fullbore grilles. http://www.jdscustoms.com/Yamaha_Banshee_Fullbore_Grilles.htm

I forgot about the PIAA bulbs. I ran them on my bike a few years ago, and they were awesome. Don't spend the money on the PIAA's though, the Tusks work just the same at less than 1/3 the cost. I actually run LED's on my sand car in conjunction with HID's, because they put out a TON of light, but they just don't throw the light as far as HID's. It's all in reflector design. The deeper the reflector, the further the light is thrown. If you ride tight trails, LED's would be your best option, but the OP said he feels like he's outrunning his lights. The LED's will project the light as far as the stock lights, but it's just not as concentrated of a beam.

Call or email Tim and ask him. He probably has the most experience with his own product.

There are a few options. I sell a 12" LED light that a couple people have used on ATV's with great results. The light retails for $216.00, draws 60w (less than stock), and consists of (20) 3w LED's producing 3600 lumens of light. LED's might not be your best option if you feel like you're outdriving your stock lights. Even the BEST LED technology has difficulty throwing the light a significant distance. In my opinion, your best/cheapest option, is to do a DC conversion with a battery, and run an HID conversion in your stock lights. Tons of people have done it with awesome results.

Many of you might remember a while back, I had small bore exhaust rubbers. I've got 9 sets of the big bore ones now. Inside diameter is 1.25". They are the exact size for your Cascade style exhaust clamps, or can be used simply with hose clamps. The price is $15.00/pair shipped to the lower 48.

You have to prep a bike MUCH LESS for the dunes, than you would for trails/mud/everything else.

This is the best I could find via google.

Well, after being at the shop until 4:00am this morning. I think I might have found the issue. I used to do a conversion on the shocks, for those who wanted it, called a schrader valve conversion. What this did was change your little "bolt" on the reservoir from a needle fill type, to a standard schrader valve, thus making it easier for the consumer to have their shock recharged, or recharge it themselves, without buying any expensive tools. The schrader valves in question are made from brass, capable of withstanding 600psi. In some situations, from what I gathered last night, after repeated heating and cooling cycles the aluminum reservoir expands at a much quicker rate than the brass schrader valve, thus causing a nitrogen leak around the threads of the schrader valve. When nitrogen pressure is lost, and the shock is being used, it will create a slight vacuum inside the nitrogen chamber of the reservoir, causing oil leaks around the seal head, and in some cases at the top of the gold colored reservoir near the compression adjuster. The cure for this is pretty simple. Remove the schrader valve, and use RTV Silicone on the threads and allow it to dry for 24 hours before recharging the shock. All of the shocks that were shipped out with this modification, used either liquid thread sealant, or teflon tape. Neither of which are efficient at expanding/contracting with temperature changes. I am officially recalling all shocks that were modified by me with this conversion. This is not a safety issue whatsoever, just a customer satisfaction thing. If you have any issues with them, please get a hold of me, and I will take care of the problem. I don't want to have any more issues with these, so from this point on, I will discontinue the schrader valve conversion. If you choose to send your shock back to me, the fix is going to be removing your reservoir tube with the schrader valve installed, and replacing the reservoir tube with the stock style needle fill. I will refund you the cost of the conversion with a copy of your invoice, as well as ship the shock back to you for free. Also, if you have no had any issues yet with your shock leaking nitrogen, you shouldn't have any issue whatsoever. This was a very isolated case, and the two or three shocks in question went to the North East USA during December/January, and one to Canada during the same time. All of the shocks that I have done that have stayed local, have never had any issues. My best guess would be the extreme temperature changes during shipping that caused all the nitrogen to leak out. As soon as the customer installed the shock, they immediately started leaking.

After being at the shop until 4am this morning, I think I figured out the issue with the stock rears. The schrader valves that I use, once seeing any type of quick, and significant temperature change, start leaking from the threads. My best guess would be the fact that the schraders themselves are brass, and the reservoirs are aluminum, they expand/contract a incredibly different rates, and leak around the threads. With that being said, I will no longer be doing the schrader valve conversion on these. I'll post other info in that thread in the Sponsor Spotlight section. As far as aftermarket vs the stock rear, look at it this way: The stock rear shock has compression adjustment, rebound adjustment, and threaded preload as mentioned above. In order to get the same options from an aftermarket shock, you're looking at spending easily $900-$1000 new. Internally, the stock rear shock is actually a VERY good shock. The shock uses a style valving called "static" valving, whereas an entry level works shock uses "progressive" valving. The benefits of each are unique. Progressive Valving: (Works, PEP, Some TCS) Pros: Can adapt to quick changes, such as hard landings, casing a jump, or hitting a whoop section hard. Incorrect valving is less noticeable to the average rider. Cons: Much more difficult to fine tune valving. Have a tendency to introduce shock fade, as the valving doesn't stay consistent with speed/velocity of the shock. Static Valving: (Elka, Axis, Some TCS, Fox, King, Ohlins, Race-Tech, etc) Pros: Much easier to fine tuner valving. Predictable valving reactions no matter the shock temp. Cons: Less adaptable to a broad range of riders (For example: You buy used shocks set up for 160lb, but you're 200lb. You WILL notice the difference) That's all I can think of. In conclusion: Static Valving > Progressive Valving in my opinion. Stick with your stock shock, have it set up for you, your bike, and your riding style and never look back.

Precision Powersports sells the non reservoir ones for $375 shipped on eBay. They have the best "to the public" price I've ever seen.

At 200psi, the nitrogen will only expand/contract about 12 psi for every 30 degrees of temperature change. Not enough to be significant.

At this point, I have no idea. One of the shocks that came back had no nitrogen left in the shock, and oddly enough, the IFP (Internal Floating Piston) in the reservoir was cracked, allowing the nitrogen and oil to intermix, possibly causing the issue. I am just going to refund the customer their money. I had already paid shipping both ways for the first warranty repair.

Effective immediately, until further notice, I will no longer be servicing stock rear Banshee shocks. An issue has been brought to my attention regarding shocks not maintaining nitrogen pressure after a rebuild or revalve. There has only been two of the 50 or 60 that I have done since December that have had this issue, but until I figure out the cause exactly, I cannot afford to continue to work on the shocks. One case in particular, the shock passed a 48 hour 200psi pressure test, and 200 strokes on the dyno flawlessly. I don't know if something is happening to them during transit or what, but it's costing me hundreds of dollars each time one of these things fails to hold nitrogen. IF I do figure out what the cause is, I will continue to service them. Unfortunately, I will be forced to raise my labor prices. I'm starting to realize why everyone else charges over double what I charge for these shocks. Thanks for your understanding.

PM sent.

x2

Let me see if I can find his phone number, or email address... (951) 777-6225, or [email protected]

You're stupid... Does Jeff REALLY need more positive feedback? lol Modquad kind of got a bad rep around here, because Ralphie was selling their product. I was just saying that if anyone needs to call modquad for anything, their customer service is awesome.

Couple of things. Fireball is no longer a sponsor. Also, I agree. Most people can't tell the difference between heims, so I made this little picture. Both of these heims are the same size, same brand, and serve the same purpose, however they are FAR from the same quality. Both heims are made by FK Rod Ends. First thing you will notice is the price difference. There's no wonder why arm manufacturers use the heims on the left. Second thing I will point out, is the part numbers themselves. Any time you see a "T" after the part number, that signifies "teflon", or PTFE fabric liner. Third, notice the construction of the heim itself. The one on the right is 3 piece, with a PTFE fabric liner. The one on the left is one piece, metal on metal (junk). The only time we ever use the CM series heims, is for non structural applications. Light bars, tire racks, etc.

I'm diggin' the Vato in the Canadian tuxedo.

Let's break this down for a second... Kelso dunes: Right next to Dumont. No reason to want to ride there. Death Valley Dunes: Also right next to Dumont. No reason to want to ride there. They are closed for a VERY good reason. They are closed, so you can ride at Dumont freely. The fact is (which I don't agree with), the environmentalists do have their opinion too. We say the dunes aren't closed for good reason, they say they are. They have their space, we have ours. Respect their space, and there's less of a chance that they'll want to try to close ours. Let them have their areas to bask in their pointless weeds, lizards and rodents, and don't give them a reason to attack our riding areas. Look at the Oregon dunes, for example. I mean, let's be honest, the Oregon residents don't have much going for them, living up there anyways , and now their dunes are getting taken away by the tree huggers. Don't give them ammunition. Besides, I'm sure the fines wouldn't be worth it anyways. Go across the highway and ride at Dumont.

Were you able to find out what stage those shocks are? Recently I have had good luck with Modquad's customer service, but have not tested any of their products. The ballljoint vs heim discussion is one that usually ends in an argument of preference. I, for one, have never built a suspension setup (Race vehicle, sand car, etc) that used ball joints. In my opinion they are inferior, and heims are a MUCH better and stronger option. With that being said, the only time I would employ balljoints over heims, is if you ride consistently in wet and/or muddy conditions. Balljoints tend to fare better in moisture than heims, due to the fact that they are internally lubricated. When I say heims are better than balljoints, I mean QUALITY heims: Teflon, or PTFE "FK" brand rod ends. If the choice was balljoints, or the cheap, POS heims, go with ball joints. Make sense? K good...

Threads merged.