So Cal Suspension

Hell yes Chris. Welcome aboard! This guy makes one of the nicest chassis' I have ever seen. They are tried and true, and obviously hold up well for the slim guys. Bad. Ass. Shit.

Hey Jose, I just got your email. Hopefully this will help. In simple, to-the-point language, the difference between long travel, and standard travel is pretty simple. They move the lower shock mount further out toward the spindle for a longer shock, and charge twice as much for the arm. Often times they add an upward bend in a specific place on the lower a-arm to accommodate for the longer shock, as well as to change the angle of the ball joint or heim to avoid binding during articulation. Depending on how aggressive of terrain you are riding, you might want to consider long-travel. Standard travel aftermarket a-arms WILL increase your wheel travel, simply because they move your wheel further out from the pivot point. The above, is called the "fulcrum effect". Imagine you have a teeter totter where the fulcrum (pivot) is 4 feet off the ground. One end of the teeter totter is 8 feet long (+3 a-arms), the other is 4 feet long (stock a-arms). Which end of the teeter totter will go up higher when the opposite end is pushed down?Also, which end will take more load to push down? The longer the arm, the more leverage, therefore the easier it will compress your shock. Often times, people will attribute their quad "lowering" after installing +2, or +3 arms, but in reality, the cause of the problem is simply more leverage on their shock. I spent about an hour doing up a bitchen illustration to explain my point, but I just fucking deleted it on accident... FML.... Oh well. Hopefully this answers your question. Synopses: Longer arms for stock length shocks, WILL increase wheel travel, but not to the extent that long travel arms will.

You will not be able to purchase aftermarket springs for the stock shocks. Removing them without a proper spring compressor is probably one of the most dangerous things you can do on a Banshee. If you want to paint the springs, slide some paper up behind the spring to protect the shock body and shaft; tape off everything you don't want paint on; and rattle can the shit out of them. 'Bout your only option without having someone remove the springs for you.

Yeah, those front shocks aren't worth the metal they are made out of. In my experience, second only to the Blaster stock shocks, as the worst factory shock ever produced.

I'd get ahold of John at JL Engineering. He is very inexpensive on powder coating, and does everything for you.

Busy is an understatement. Sorry, I usually can only check my PM's every other day or so, and sometimes (Like today), I have 26 PM's waiting for me. You PM'd me right after I finished up yesterday. I'll just reply here instead. AT Steelers are the bottom-of-the-line Works shock. They are LOADS better than stock shocks. You will definitely notice a great improvement over stock. Here are little tid-bits of advice, though. If you are buying new, don't buy triple rate, go with dual rate. There is no DOWN side to triple rate, but just unnecessary to spend the extra money for no reason. Banshee's are too heavy to utilize that third spring. Also, if you are buying new Works, consider buy a set of USED dual rate, non reservoir Elka's instead. They use a different (Better) type of valving, and MUCH better seals and wear bands. You will get longer time frames between services. The only downside, is they will not be set up for you properly when you buy them used.

I kinda wanna buy this thing.

What is thebansheezone? Your question isn't clear, but I'm assuming you're doing a j-arm to a-arm conversion, and you need the distance between the two upper a-arm tabs?

I liked the part about the winch attachment. I bet that looks awesome mounted on top of that shark tooth bumper.

And on another note, watching this disaster of a video, the fuckin' speedo doesn't even work... lol. Occasionally the needle will bounce up, as he hits a bump...

No one's gotten laid in cargo shorts since 'nam. Just sayin'... Also, you guys just got trolled.

I wouldn't do it. Buy shocks made for your bike. I don't understand the logic behind cobbling together a front end from take off parts off of another machine. I know some people will say "Mine works great". Sure, it may WORK; but GREAT? I would beg to differ. Save your pennies, buy equipment that was manufactured for YOUR bike, and YOU. It might WORK, but for a few pennies more, you can have the right stuff.

Isn't the pissing match supposed to take place BEFORE the event? Not after? On that note: I'll take a BLT on sourdough.

What is the elevation and ambient air temperature? At sea level roughly 70-80 degrees, I would leave the 270's, drop to a 27.5, needle on the middle clip.

www.jlengineering.org

Haha, at least you had the balls to admit that!

Glad you posted, brother. Who was the little Mexican girl with her tits hanging out all week? She was fuckin hot!

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=109709

Definitely not. You will have to re-set your pickup gap. You can loose the bolts on the pickup, and using either a feeler gauges .020", or a 16pt business card set the gap, then tighten her down.

...long enough drag strip, and I woulda' whooped all your asses...

Bump.

Their customer service sucks more dick than yamahaman126 after 3 Zima's.

I wouldn't buy anything from RIS Designs. Not a single thing...

We'll be at the Walmart in Amarillo, TX in about an hour if anyone needs anything, let me know.