So Cal Suspension

We can't. That's why we urge people to give a reasonable amount of time to sellers. This is unfortunate.

Two strokes always run better lean. Right before they blow up. I had a similar setup, only with pods and a cool head. I ran 320's, 27.5's, and needle on the middle clip at 700ft above sea level.

I would venture to say, that 260 is too lean. I would go 280-190's, 25 or even 27.5 pilot, and needle on the middle clip. Also make sure your carbs are sync'd and your idle screws are both in. Sometimes those brass idle screws can back out if the lock nut isn't tight.

That shocker one is badass JD... Nice work!

Yeah. They charge an arm and a leg for shipping, too. I usually try to place my stock orders in huge bulk, to avoid their ridiculous shipping. Also, I only charge MY cost on parts. I don't mark up any parts. I dunno, I guess I'm too generous when it comes to stuff like that. I was on the other side of this industry for so long, that I know what made me happy when I was buying tons of stuff.

I am a Works Performance dealer, among other things. I have customers all the time who call and ask the price of a new pair of shocks. I flat out tell them that they are cheaper to buy direct from Works Performance's eBay outlet. I am not bitter one bit. I don't understand the logic behind this. I guess if you're ONLY in the business to make a dime, the argument is valid. I, simply, am not. One of my most popular lines is: "Don't spend money unless you absolutely NEED to." My goal is to save my customers every penny possible. Maybe it's a terrible business model, but it's working. I send customers to other vendors who are better at specific things, than I am. I want my customers to have the best product, at the best price. If I can't give that to them, I will tell them who can. It's all about supporting this community. If a manufacturer wants to sell below what their dealer's retail is, that is their prerogative. The dealers have the option of carrying the product line or not.

I agree. Communication is key. All I'm saying is maybe you should have given him a little more time for it to show up before you made a negative feedback post about him. It very well could be in the mail right now, and it could show up Monday or Tuesday. Wouldn't you feel back if it shows up within a reasonable amount of time, but now he has this negative feedback post?

For the love of god.... HID's are NOT plug and play in a Banshee, or ANY two stroke, without a battery. No matter what that auction says. Those people are complete idiots. In order to run HID's in a banshee, you need to do a DC conversion. There have been several write-ups on it. Google "Banshee DC Conversion". There is an excellent write up on it, where the guy installs two hella HID's, and I believe two trailtech HID's.

Didn't you just buy this on the 21st? He replied at 5:22pm saying it was sold. Obviously too late for him to ship it that day... That's only two shipping days. Give him some some, homie.

Anyone ever run this stuff in cars? I'm thinking I'd like to buy a few bottles for some friends cars...

wat

And you're worried about an outlaw 500? What HAVE you been racing? lt80's?

I would go with either Axis, Elka, or Works. In that order. Dual rates. Don't waste the money on triples. Banshees are too front heavy. Triples are pointless. If you can find a good used ones that are triples, it won't hurt anything, there is just no reason to spend the extra money on triples if you're buying new.

Unless you have zero-loss tools, you're never going to be accurate. Generally set them both at 200, but I don't see why you'd need to mess with them unless they leak. In which case, the leak needs to be addressed. Also, Nitrogen won't affect your ride quality whatsoever. That is a common misconception. People think that nitrogen pressure will stiffen their shocks. Not that case one bit. All the nitrogen is there for, is to provide counter-pressure to prohibit foaming.

That appears to be the stock spring? If so, that is a 5.5kg/mm spring. The same spring that is on the stock Banshee shock from 1991-2006. I don't want anyone to get the idea that this is a heavier duty spring. Valving is exactly the same as the Banshee as well. With that being said, these are a great option to replace the stock Banshee rear. Having the compression adjustment on the reservoir gives you a little better control.

It's probably blown out. When you push down on the back of the bike, you should hear the oil in the shock as it moves past the piston. I can either rebuild your stocker, or you can find a used one on ebay or something. Your money is best spent rebuilding yours, though, since you'll know it's practically brand new. Total rebuild, out the door, shipped back to you is $134...

Looks good man. Only suggestion I have is to move your lower shock mount in. It looks like in it's current position you're going to lose a little ride height, and drop-out. It's hard to tell without having the bike here to take measurements, but the shock angle looks about right. Ride height is the only issue I see as of now.

I'm not sure what exactly you're looking for, but check out the grab bars that JL Engineering makes. They're badass, and you won't find a better guy to deal with. www.jlengineering.org You can kinda see it in this picture.

LOL, really... mining a thread form 04?

Some are two pieces that are threaded in the middle. some are just one piece that you slide onto one pipe before you mount them, then slide the "clamp" over the joint. I'm not really a fan of either of those styles. I like the cascade clamps.

Those SHOULD work, I believe t5's are just slightly over 1". I know the 1" rubbers for the cascade style clamps fit t5's.

I'm going to pull my foot out of my mouth. Everything is coming together VERY well. Zilla is correct. You want your lower shock mount as close to the wheel as possible. I would set it in from the spindle about 4 inches, and optimum shock angle is roughly 35 degrees. Do us all a favor, though. Go start a photobucket account, and upload the original pictures. They will be big. I'm super interested in this project and I'll be watching closely for the finished product.

I wouldn't buy one of those. I'm sure someone around here has a stocker with a pro-flow adapter for sale cheap. 90 bucks, plus you still have to spend another $50+ for the filters. Not to mention the filters you have to use are tiny. In my opinion, they can't flow nearly as well as the pro-flow setup. Yet another reason to not buy from them.

Not stock arms. Stage two NPL Elka's worth about $300-$350. Arms probably aren't worth much without knowing the brand and whether or not they are +2 or +3's...