So Cal Suspension

I didn't like my haulers, but I loved the skates, and my favorite tire for duning was my ITP sand Stars. Excellent price, though. They look brand new.

"technically" yeah, you need to buy an out-of-state sticker. They are like $23 bucks. Being that it's a holiday weekend, just play stupid and say you didn't know, or you can pay the $23 and not have to worry about anything. If you guys are driving through San Diego, you can buy them at Off Road Warehouse right off the 8, in El Cajon. You just walk in, pay the 23 bucks, and walk out with your sticker. It's kind of an easy way to get out of any hassel. Just make sure it's visible on the bike, and you'll be good to go. The address to ORW is 425 North Marshall Avenue, El Cajon, CA 92020 You can call them and make sure they've got em. They'll also sell them to you over the phone and ship them to you if you have time. (619) 442-8689

If you're interested in doing a DC conversion, I sell LED lights for the stock location. They only draw 10w of power, but are 3x as bright as a 35w halogen. $99ea shipped. The picture below is ONE light.

I was wondering when someone was going to notice the tits on the headlights.

Honestly, man, you'll be hard pressed to find someone you can PAY to take the stock exhaust. People give that stuff away all the time. Also, on the toomey silencers, with the one in the condition it's in, I'd say $30 shipped is the bet you can hope for.

We're going to try to be out there on Friday morning, and stay through Monday night. I'll be in Wash 4. I'll shoot you a PM if anything changes.

I bought it... The new york guys are picking it up on the way to their President's Day glamis trip. I can't wait.

Um... ANY hydraulic store could make you this... but don't tell them it's a brake line. Most won't make it if you tell them it's a brake line (liability). Tell em it's a shock reservoir line. Should only be like 20 bucks. You probably could have had one made in the time it took you to make this thread... Get new banjo bolts and copper washers too, while you're at it. Just saying...

I could see someone who had some 65.5mm bore ported cylinders, wanting to trade for a set of 64mm stock bore cyls, I guess. I know that's not what this dude wanted, so the valid criticism still stands.

I've been using and selling FK Rod Ends for YEARS. Absolute best in the business. The part number you need should be a JMX12T... It's a 3/4"x3/4-16" (But double check your measurements). The "T" is important. "T" stands for "Teflon". The regular JMX12's are metal on metal. Still HEAPS better than the crap ones on there, but the teflon ones will last forever, and they're only like 10 bucks a piece more. The teflon heims will outlast your bike. Don't put those shit metal-on-metal heims back on there. You'll only be replacing them in a year if you do. ORW sells them on ebay for $34.99ea. Just search for JMX12T. Also, notice that FK sells a JMXL12T, and a JMX12T. The "L" stands for "left hand threads". Odds are both of your heims are right hand thread, but just pull them off and verify that for sure. If the left side heim threads into the right side arm in the standard clockwise direction, they are the regular ones. JMX12T. Typically, the L's are used on tie rod, or radius arm applications.

On Dual Rate shocks, the main spring is the only spring that needs to be changed. Springs are $45-$65 depending on what spring rate you need. As far as the revalve goes, if the shocks don't need rebuilt, the revalve is $35ea, including new oil and nitrogen. If they need rebuilt also, the price breaks down as follows: Revalve ONLY: $35.00ea including oil/nitrogen $15.00/pr shipping anywhere in the lower 48 $85.00 out the door, shipped. (Springs extra) Rebuild and Revalve: $55.00ea including oil/nitrogen (non reservoir) $65.00ea including oil/nitrogen (reservoir) $14.00ea seal kit (2 needed) $5.00 shipping anywhere in the lower 48. $143.00/$163.00 Out the door, shipped. (Springs extra)

Out of the probably 400+ rear shocks I've done, I don't think I've ever measured oil quantity... I set the IFP, and fill er up. Viscosity is going to vary depending on what you're setting the shock up for. Typical weight for the rear is anywhere from a 10-12wt... if you're heavier, run a 12wt, lighter, run a 10ish. Amsoil Shock Therapy, Medium #10 is a good oil that is readily available. 1 quart will be enough, and you'll have some leftover. Set your IFP at about 3/4 Nitrogen, 1/4" oil...

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=151216&st=0&p=1306716entry1306716

I'm not going to totally discount this, but... wtf. I ran snowmobile shocks on my Banshee, and never could get another aftermarket shock to work like those snowmobile shocks did... I'm not as fat as a lot of you guys on here, so I actually needed a softer shock.

Again, like has been said COUNTLESS times... TONS of people have done EXACTLY what you did. What you did was NOTHING out of the ordinary. I'm not sure why you think it is? Suspension is not rocket science. On another note, your second paragraph makes almost no sense so I didn't really understand what you were trying to say. The fact is, David has an absolute TOP NOTCH suspension system, DESIGNED FOR A BANSHEE, and is close to where you're at price wise. He runs Axis front shocks, with a completely built Ohlins rear shock. He is also FULL long travel, not standard travel, like you are. Davids front end pulls a USABLE 13"+ of front wheel travel. I stick by mine, and other's previous statements: Using take-off parts from another machine is NOTHING short of cobbling together something. You may think it works well, but for the price, you could have gotten better. Point blank. David did.

I sold the first batch of them in January. The Chinese new year just ended, so I can get more castings in the next couple weeks. I've got one set of lights right now that are up for grabs, I'll have about 50 more ready to go in a couple weeks.

Fuckin' dick.

I'm clearing out my Works seals, and I have 6 rebuild kits in stock. I'm not sure if you're still interested, but I can do the Steelers for $125 Out The Door for the pair, and the reservoir ones for $165/pr. No other hidden BS charges. Free shipping anywhere in the lower 48.

They'll definitely "work", and be better than stock for sure. I wouldn't pay more than $75-$100 for a set, though. You can get aftermarkets for 150-200 easy.

Wasn't the 3Gs only available on ATT? I thought Sprint and Verizon didn't get the iPhone until the 4...

You can't just bump a thread like this from 2004, and not reupload the pics...

I know, bore, sleeve, etc. I should have said "you can't just bore a stock cylinder to 68mm". My bad.

Correct me if I'm wrong (Which I may). If you are trying to modify your bike with a "hidden" 4 mil that is AGAINST the rules, what would the definition of that be? What I am doing here, is providing information that potentially saved you from wasting thousands of dollars. You're welcome for saving you from buying junk cylinders thinking they were superior. In addition, I also advised you on which way would be the best route for you to go, all the while, knowing you were going to be using the information to cheat in a sanctioned series. Call me "Honest Abe", but I think you made yourself look poor by openly admitting you are trying to cheat. Regardless if "everyone else" cheats, doesn't mean you need to stoop to their levels and try to be a sneaky cheat. Where is the fun in EVERYONE cheating? It's called a "STOCK" class for a reason. Since EVERYONE else is cheating, I'm sure you could go to the officials and tell them you are the ONLY one still running a stock displacement engine, and every other bike that runs in the stock class would be DQ'd, thus making you the winner in every race you've ever raced. Sounds like you would win by being HONEST... Lastly, yes, anyone who openly admits that they are trying to cheat, should be shunned.

You can't bore a stock cylinder to 68mm. Sure, a 68mm CUB would make much more power, but simply boring a 64mm (stock) cylinder to a 66mm, won't make any more noticeable power. Buying 66.5 bore cylinders are basically only worth their weight in scrap aluminum. They are bored beyond what most builders would consider to be "safe". Keep your stock cylinders, have them ported by a good engine builder, and go 4mill. Also, you should be shunned for trying to cheat. Dick.