So Cal Suspension

His username is sheerider1026.

Definitely. The only difference in hardware is the tender (little) spring.

In that case, I'd go with the Elka stage 2+R. Rebound adjustment is always better to have than compression adjustment, in my somewhat educated opinion.

My personal preference is an RM Stator 200w, that has been rewound by Gary. (sheerider1026). I believe he is selling them already rewound and converting to dc for under $200. I think he might be even significantly cheaper, but I'm not sure. In my opinion, it's the best quality you can get. He uses the best wire, and the guy is a fuckin perfectionist. We've run one of his rewound OEM stators for about a year now on a 300ft bike with absolutely zero hiccups, and I just ordered a 200w RM DC stator from him. There are quite a few people out there with his stators and I have never heard of anyone with anything other than positive feedback. I know he is backed up, but it's worth a shot to hit him up and see how long it'd be.

Top of the line fox vs near bottom of the line elkas? Fox without a doubt. Keep in mind, though, if you develop an air leak on one of the sealing surfaces of the air spring, your trip is done. With a traditional coilover, shock blows out, you still have a spring supporting you. It doesn't happen very often, but I have seen it quite a few times. Just something to think about if you're riding in rocky desert stuff around here.

I wouldn't, no. NPL's belong on bikes that are hitting a lot of rollers, or small jumps. The lower ride height isn't advisable for MX bikes.

Chinese garbage. They sell on eBay for cheaper. Your stock shocks are better. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autos-14-75-375mm-Pair-Front-Shocks-Absorber-Replacement-For-Yamaha-Banshee-ATV-/200880552175?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec569f8ef&vxp=mtr

What the hell are shears?

Post #10. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=155661&hl= Be aware, though, NPL setups are best used on bikes that want to obtain a lower center of gravity. IE, they will lower your bike about an inch or two depending upon your swingarm length.

Sticky splatter.

It took me a while looking at it to realize that it's clear. I thought it was aluminum.

Can I get a serial number off of one of the shocks please?

I got some tires from Phil. He put them in a box labeled "Wife's panties". It was a big box. She either has a lot of panties, or BIG panties.

Our conversation wasn't even that funny. I mean, there were funny parts, but no one in hell is going to read all of that. What is wrong with you blaster dudes? The video was funny, but after thinking for a while, I don't understand why your blasterforum drama makes it over here constantly. We don't care about blasters, or their owners.

Holy shit I can't stop laughing. Whoever you are that took the time to make that video... Welcome. Stay. Hang out for a while.

I remember doing those 450 shocks... they were quite a while ago, but I don't think they were hardly ridden on.

I actually forgot about JD's hangers... I bought the OEM ones because that's what Shearer had recommended for his pipes.

My guess is that he KNOWS he is a better rider than all of his riding buddies (the OP). Without a doubt in my mind, a good rider on a predator 500 would walk all over an average rider on a built banshee.

Have you checked your reeds? Sounds like a broken/missing reed petal.

Forever alone.

Man, a lot of you new guys lately have been sensitive sally's. You need to realize something right quick. You came on here asking for information without giving any information, then kept trying to justify your lack of information by proclaiming that you KNOW the guy put the "good stuff" on it. Well, what he considers the "good stuff", might (likely) not actually be good stuff. Seeing something described on BansheeHQ as "racing carbs", and "racing clutch", immediately gets made fun of. Also, are they aftermarket big bore cylinders? Or just stock cylinders bored over? You have contradicted yourself. If they are simply bored stock cylinders, unless they were bored and sleeved to a much larger size, you didn't gain any noticeable power by them being bored. Typically when stock cylinders reach 66mm, they are considered junk without proper sleeving done. Additionally, why do you want a number on power? If the horsepower number is relevant to whether or not you purchase the bike, I would suggest taking it to a reputable shop with a dyno, and have it dynoed prior to your purchase. You need to understand the amount of knowledge here is vast. If you want specific answers, you need to ask specific questions. The question you asked is simply unanswerable. There are literally hundreds of thousands of motor combinations out there, and with descriptors such as "racing carbs" you won't get an answer remotely close to accurate. What size carbs? What manufacturer? What is the jetting? What is your compression? What fuel are you running? What is the air temperature at the time of dyno? <--- Those among thousands of other questions will get you SORT OF in the right direction with a horsepower guess, but even still, it's just a guess.

Is your dad... also your cousin? I think I see where this is going.

(760) 949-0017 will get you a set of mint shearers.

Is this is a troll thread? I feel like this is a troll thread.

It'd be cool if they were bright enough to be used as real lights, but I don't think anyone except for maybe the UK guys need turn signals.