So Cal Suspension

The knob on the top of the shock is for compression adjustment... It doesn't change anything other than the speed at which the shock will travel. You also have an additional adjuster on the bottom of the shock, that threads in and out to control rebound. The rebound adjuster, by design, will also create added compression resistance. Essentially it is a "bypass" controlled by a needle valve that flows both directions: Compression, and rebound. Don't add anymore nitrogen to the shock, as it won't do anything. Cranking down the preload will add some, but like Possum said, you should replace the spring, if you want to do it right. There isn't anything at all you can do with the front shocks, except adjust the preload.

If you've got $450 to spend right now, like said previously, I'd save your pennies and just buy a set of new ones. You won't find a better pair of pipes, that's for sure.

I think you're on to something. Most everyone in Michigan gets good parts, but he knowingly ships garbage to the rest of the country with the intent to screw people. A few parts for my bike came from Ray, but I had someone go hand pick them.

Good call. I got your email, and was going to reply to it tomorrow when I get to the office. Anyways, you're on the right track, and the previous posts are accurate. If the MAIN spring is broken, there is likely collateral damage. I always tell people to assume shocks need to be rebuilt when you're buying them. To answer your question in your email, a set of non reservoir works shocks runs $45.00ea for a rebuild, and $17.50ea for seals. Reservoir shocks are $65.00ea plus $17.50ea for seals. It's not uncommon for Works shafts to be bent. They use 1/2" shafts and where the rod end threads onto the shaft is only 3/8". It's a weak point in Works shocks, and I wish they would change them.

I kinda want this shock.

If I go back and read all of your posts in a broken asian accent... It makes them so much better. What are you? 5'2"? You can barely touch the ground on that RM85

Dude, that chain is so fucking loose... and also, haha you're asian.

If it's just a stock wheel, I'd just get a new one, but if you bent the rim pretty bad, I would check for other bent stuff. You might be okay though. If it was an expensive aluminum wheel, there is a company called US Wheels Remanufacturing that can fix bent aluminum rims. They do all of our sand car and race truck wheels.

exspect sounding it out ftw.

Does the builders name start with J and end in im? Your spelling and grammar is atrocious. You can say words here such as "Fuck", "Shit" and "Cunt". Just don't use racial slurrs... I actually pronounce "Fk" as it's spelled. It makes you look ridiculous.

They belong on volkswagons where they came from.

You hit the nail on the head. Looks. That's about it. I recommend them for groomed track bikes only, in which case, a rigid setup is better.

rumble at the ranch. hah.

Ocotillo wells is only an hour and a half. I'll be there testing in two weeks.

Yeah. I've ridden an eliminator before. I wasn't impressed at all. It definitely handled better than a stock banshee, but I thought a bone stock TRX450R felt better.

x2

I wouldn't get either. Keep your stock chassis, and get a set of good long travel arms with properly set up shocks. Both of those chassis use stock 250r geometry. They really aren't anything special.

haha. only if she's 5'3"

Great job bumping a thread from 2009 with your first two posts.

I bought it. Typically scratches or light marring can be fixed with lapping.

Does the flywheel rattle at all? If not, PM me your paypal, I'll take it.

Sniper Racing Exhaust was fairly well known until about 2006. They shifted to more 4 stroke and street bike stuff. The Banshee Snipers are on page 6 of this PDF. http://www.splashndirt.com/catalogues/manufacturiers/PDFs/Sniper_17-3-05.pdf

We'll be there late at night on Wednesday. Probably around 11:30-midnight. I will have all my shock stuff with me, and will be able to do tuning out there.

TCS has been out of business for quite a while now. They were absorbed by Race-Tech. Parts are becoming harder and harder to get, and I advise my customers to avoid them if possible. I do have a few outlets that I can source parts from, but hard parts (seal heads, rod ends, shafts, etc) are non existent. That being said, I built a set of TCS shocks for my own personal bike, but used Elka 5/8" shafts with elka lower rod ends. Most TCS shocks are just basically Works shocks with a different piston and valving setup.

How to: Drag frame 1: cut cut cut cut cut cut cut cut 2: bend bend bend bend bend bend bend bend bend 3: weld weld weld weld weld weld weld weld weld 4: grind grind grind grind grind grind grind grind grind 5: bondo bondo bondo bondo bondo bondo bondo bondo 6: paint You don't need a bender, or a good welder. That is all.