So Cal Suspension

Almost sounds too good to be true, but who knows... http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/for/2126464654.html

I always preferred the V paddle to the straight paddles, personally. Straight paddles hooked up WAY better in a straight line, but my favorite tires I ran were Sand Stars. Straight line hookup was still pretty good... and would slide when you wanted them to. If you're not going to do a TON of sand riding, don't spend a bunch on tires... but please don't buy Sand Gecko's...

Two of us in there? Hopefully no one kicks on the furnace...

From your description, it sounds like you're talking about a cantilever setup. We've used cantilever designs, mainly on the rear for stadium trucks, or CORR trucks. The reason for this setup, mainly, is space limitations. You can get more travel out of a shorter shock with this style suspension. The best image I can find right now, to describe what I'm talking about, is this. If you google "cantilever suspension", you will probably get some other similar results.

Spammer....

Thanks for bumping this. I never saw those pics with the red lights. Hands down the best looking under-body lights I've ever seen.

Well, most people call their Stage 1 shocks "Dune Editions", when in reality most of them are not. They are just stage 1's. The bottom of the line Elka's. Dune editions initially were intended to only be sold as a kit, with arms, shocks, tie rods, and brake lines. That was how it was supposed to be. But being that Elka can never make up their mind, and be consistent with marketing, they started selling shocks labeled as "dune editions". The "dune edition" shocks typically are dual rate piggyback shocks, with compression adjustment only. GENERALLY no rebound adjustment on them.

Does she need to be alive? or just warm?

Not to keen on you "knocking on my back door"... but post up the article...

Haha. If I gave away shit for every bit of positive feedback I've gotten, I'd be broke! The truth is I don't bribe anyone... Matt was just trying to be a comedian... Little does he know, that I still have his Elka's, and if he keep playing games, the springs might come back powdercoated hot pink.

If you notice, the winner has no feedback... it was a bullshit listing, I'm assuming.

The first set of bars I get will be 240 watts total. We are going to go with 3w LED's instead of 5W in these bars, because the heat generated with the current LEDs on the market would require more material for a heat sink. Maybe as the LED technology advances, we will be able to do an 80LED bar with 5w LEDs, but right now the housing would have to be too large to accommodate the added heat, to make it practical.

The 42's initially are going to be available in a Flood, or Euro pattern, They are 14,400 lumens each, consist of 80 LED's. They will retail for $749, plus shipping. I will work on getting pictures, once I get the first one in my hands.

Thanks buddy. For some reason even when I use the "link" button at the top, it still shows up as regular text... I don't know what I'm doing wrong...

Hey guys. Finally got the site up and running. It's nothing too special right now, but as time goes by, I'd like to get some testimonials up, and some before and after pictures. There is pricing on there. Obviously not complete, and not set in stone pricing. Anyways, check it out! I'm having trouble getting links to work, so you'll just have to copy/paste it in your browser. www.socalsuspensionsystems.com

Cal, I should smack you. You are doing more harm than good by giving the dirt something to stick to. Probably the worst thing you can do to a heim is to lube it. I guess it will temporarily stop the squeaking, but once it dries out, it will be worse than before. The best remedy, is to not run those junk ass metal on metal heims. Get the teflon ones, and they won't make noise, and, like i've said before, they will outlast your banshee.

Here's a few more pictures in his craigslist post. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/2106121751.html

Hopefully this gets taken care of. For both of you. It sucks on both ends. I had a similar deal go down lately with that single seat long travel chassis I traded my shee for. Finally got around to having the frame X-Rayed for SCORE certs, and it had some cracks in it that had to be fixed... The frame had just been powdercoated before I got it... 2500 bucks in powder, and 700 bucks to have the cracks fixed, and she's certified. I can see how not knowing what your selling could get dangerous. Hopefully everything turns out for both of you.

Nah, it's over... My work here is done.

Do you guys want to exchange phone numbers so you can plan your man-date on the phone? It's more personal that way.

Just to quote you from earlier in this thread. I guess I wasn't too far off with 1015 then... Seems accurate to me. I'm just using your numbers here. Also, the lower power draw of LEDs, lower heat, life expectancy? Yes, that is accurate... but that wasn't the argument... lol. The argument was that HID's watt per watt are brighter than LED's or Halogens. Correct me if I am wrong. The chart is poor marketing because, again... It proves HID's, watt for watt are brighter than LEDs or Halogens. Again... is that correct? I run LED's on my own personally long travel car. They are bright, yes... Do I run them because I expect to drive my buggy for 250,000 hours, at night? No... lol. I run a combination of HID's, and a my 42" LED lightbar. The HID's are brighter... Sorry...

Those things are pretty badass... How the hell is he making money selling them for 70 bucks a pair, though? I wonder if he could make them resemble the shape of the IMS pegs. I'm sure people would be willing to pay more for them if they were bigger like the IMS ones

3200 is a smokin deal for this motor. Good luck on the sale!

Ehh, I had some big long fact-driven rant typed out, but it's not worth posting. The chart that I posted below should settle everything. This is an argument that has been going on for ever... and never goes anywhere. The facts are the facts. Sorry... WATT PER WATT HID's ARE BRIGHTER THAN LEDS OR HALOGENS. This chart is posted on VisionX's website. Very poor marketing idea if you ask me... With that being said/proven/done... For anyone interested, in the next few weeks I will have in stock, LED lightbars for sale, ranging from 4", all the way up to 52". On bars 22" and above, you can get a combination bar, ie half flood, half spot. They are currently being manufactured in Carlsbad, CA with Philips Lumiled 5w Lambertian LED's... and will be available in either a Flood, Euro, and Spot pattern for a little more than HALF the cost of other manufacturers with a 2 year warranty, on the entire light. Wiring, housings, lenses, LED's, anything. Watch for a thread in the sponsor spotlight section soon!

Do a bench test. Back before I got rid of my banshee, I was going to do the same conversion that Jason did. (There was a thread on this somewhere). I did a bench test with a spare set of lights I had... In one light was the PIAA 35w bulb, the other light was the Xentec 35w HID kit. I ran them overnight (bad idea). The PIAA halogen bulb destroyed the housing. Heat rises (temporarily)... I left them with the lenses pointing straight up... came back in the morning, and had a hole clean through the lens on the halogen light. HID was still going strong, and the lens was cool to the touch. It was about 55 degrees in the garage when I checked them in the morning. Halogens produce around 29 lumens per watt, HID's produce 110 lumens per watt (roughly). A 35watt halogen will be about 1015 lumens, and a 35 watt HID will be 3850. Of course every manufacturer will be different, but that's a pretty good average. The rest of the wattage eaten up by the halogen, is converted to heat (Waste). Keep in mind, though. That your stock housing was designed for a halogen bulb, not an HID. You won't get the most efficient light dispersion, but you can see by Jason's pictures, it doesn't really matter... lol. They are BRIGHT, and throw the light VERY far...