jlevasseur

They all blue after time, especially on the lower end of the header going into the cyclinder. Blueing can be caused by a lean motor but usually is just the metal reaction's to heat. Factory production chrome is cheap and does not hold up to heat at all. I believe the FMF's and the Pro circuits are gold nickle plated right, giving it a shiny chrome look but its not chrome. The best way to prevent blueing in my experience is having the pipes custom show chromed. That will hold up to the excessive exhaust gas temp (EGT's) being produced by any motor a lot better then production chrome. Banshee's run warm period. Your tunning is probably fine unless your plugs are white and your bike ran like crap and wat poping and cutting out. Its just the nature of the beast. I finally show chromed mine and havn't had any problems yet. Good luck man.

You should at least to the hubs maybe even more. Then have a second color like chrome break it all up. I powdercoated the hubs, spindles, cases, frame, inside of the pegs, rear brake pedal, sproket and brake hub , inside the dog bone and then chromed everything else to break it all up and also tie it together. But that is my taste. Good Luck man

there are shops out therer that will re-chrome used pipes, just got to find one.

add reenforcement to the steering stem stop, that is always a problem. With out a question, get rid of all the unused brakets. If you do any welding at all, make sure they do not have a fosgene pockets in the welds, that will for sure make a nice powdercoat job look like crap when they pop. A-arms, I wouldn't powdercoat them because you will destroy the ball joints. I would chrome them, adding a second color to build like chrome makes all the difference in the world. And if your powdercoating, mine as well powdercoat anything else you want like, hubs, spindles, ect..... And the powdercoat shop should be plugging all the holes and taking care of the rest of the prep work. Might want to take out the steering stem bearing, the heat might damage it, or just get a new one. good luck man !!

Are out of frame pipes really worth it when it comes to a drag pipe, compared to inframe CPI's and Sheares? Anyone got and comparisions of the two, maybe on a dyno? How about pictures?? Anyone have any pics of the new OOF shears with silencers?? thanks guys

I have a 10 mil mini billet 521cc dunner right now with a stock tranny, CPI sb sf inframes with 39 PWK's on race gas. Thinking about going to a overide, shear out of frames and putting it on alchol. I have a few bikes and would like to get the most out of this motor for drag racing at the dunes. what are your opinions on alky? Is all the work...perging ect worth the gain? Does alky really burn twice as fast as race gas? Any input on anything towards alky or even if a overide is worth it would be great...thanks..

That makes two for Cam at Redline, great guy who know's what he is doing. Confederate350 couldn't have stated it any better.

There is alot of factors to take in consideration but I would think you should be able to us stock gearing 14-41 with that set up in sand but you just have to test it out. assuming your bike is dialed in and runs great. Also on what kind of riding you do. I would test your bike on how well it pulls through 1st through 4th. maybe even 5th but 6th gear is pretty tall. See how it launches from a dead stop(usally in second gear) If it doesn't pull very hard in 4th or 5th and doesn't launch very hard in second at a dead stop then I would gear down. But it is raps out real fast in 2nd at a launch and pulls hard and goes through the gears real fast then gear up. Hope this helps...all in all I would thing a 14-41 should get you in the ball park. The gearing you have now should be a little low

Also depends on what you want to do with your bike. If you plan on drag racing I would go with something a little bigger like a 36 or 38. But for alaround duning I have 34 pj's on one of my 4 mils and 34 electrons on the others, both set up for duning and they run great.

Like everyone else said....did you change the jetting when you changed the pipes? Second I would check the plugs. If all is dialed you should be able to role it out of the garage first thing in the am and roll the kick starter over slowely 2 or 3 times then one or two hard kicks and it should fire right up. Another thing I would recommend is turning off the pingel valve when your done riding that way the carbs don't fill up with gas while sitting, which makes it a pain in the a$$ to start again next time.

Depends if you have to buy new pistons and such as well, If all your going to be in the cylinders to fix them is $800 then might be worth it to fix if is has been ported by a respectable company. In my personal experience I have'nt seen any run that well ( not saying they don't). But for around that price range you can get a cub top end or for a little more you can get a super cub and they make great power without any porting. Your right on that border line on what to do, it could go either way.

what size bore?

throttle positon is closed to 1/8 open the pilot jet and air screw are used. 1/4-3/4 throttle the needle is used. 3/4- full throttle the main jet is used. Might be your electrical. I would check all your wiring, check the coil and stator, check for good grounds. electrical problems do funny things. If you cant figure it out, try and get it on the dyno if you have access. a Dyno is a great tunning tool . Hope that helps.

Far as I know Klotz R50 does not break down. I have been using Klotz for over 7 years and it my first choice. Bansheesandrider had good input. Good Luck

Polishing the lenses will make them and clean and clear as new. Covering them using something like Cascade-Innovations light covers will help them from getting dirty or scratched. Or you could always replace them with trail tech lights for a better look and brighter lights. Can also buy brand new OEM banshee lights on ebay for cheap all day long. Good Luck.

a banshee with t-5's will do great anywhere. t-5 are great mid range pipes. And the Banshee has been around since 87 for a reason. Even if it was a 4 mil or a 4 mil cub or even a 10 mil, they can all be trail ridden depending on the set up.

getting set up to do it yourself is not worth it unless you plan on starting a bussiness. You should be able to get most everthing on your bike powdercoated for under $800(including cases). Thats seems to be the average going rate in oregon. where you from?

depending on what your are doing to the topend, if you are going to put a 4 mil in you will have to deck the head to make room for the 4mm longer stroke. Also if you plan on porting the cyclinders and maybe refeshening them then the cub is the way to go for the money. a 421 is the best combo for the buck, depending on the set up it is a great all around motor. A complete cub topend should be around a grand. a good port job, head, domes, and new pistons and hone job if needed are going run you atleast that. Plus a cub is a 68mm bore compare to a stock cyclinder at around 64mm meaning a cub will put our more power just bolted on. Plus you can always sell your stock cyclinders and regain some of your money or keep them as spares. Everyone I know that have the cub's love them and they do it all from trails, tree shots, drag racing and all around duning. Good luck man.

pretty sure it is a 28 pilet jet. If you have pipes and filters then it would be a 30. But depends on eleveation.

The only other thing I would say is that a lot of guys racing don't even care to race a street bike powered quad. It doesn't do anything for them. They would rather go against a naturally aspired quad motor from what I have seen. also you can get 100 reliable hp from a banshee from just a 4 mil cub. Mine has been together for 5 years with not even a new top end. Its all in the builder and set up. and 600 will fit in a banshee frame, seen it done plenty of times, as you already know its just gonna take some fabricating. Go for it man and have fun with the build, that seems to always be my favorite part !!!

The problem with a street bike motor swap is that they are heavy and like anything, its all in the set up. street bike powered quads have gotten pretty popular lately especially on the oregon dunes, but I have yet to only see a few that were that fast. Most conversions I have seen a 4 mil cub could hang with it at the very least, and they conversions don't turn out looking that good(usually). The only frame that I have seen really work is the raptor frame or a complete custom frame. Keep in mind you will have to probably get some stiffer shocks to support teh added weight, depending on the rider's weight, a swing arm and then mess with the gearing. I talked to a couple guys who have R1 raptors and they said they are good duners but to top heavy for any aggressive trails or tree shots. They also said that they spend triple what they thought they would spend when the project was over. Its all about what kind of riding you do to. But if that is what you want to to then go for it. Thought i'd input on what I have seen and heard. Good luck with the build and have fun man.

No real pro or cons on combining the two in my opinion. Might need to adjust the silencer stinger tube with a tube bender, maybe. the Paul turner pipes are a great low to mid range pipe. Cascade-innovation also sells some sould legal silencers for the paul turners if u r interested in going that route, but you don't have to. With a little work your combo will work just fine.

If you talk to some builders you will find that most of the prefer the T-5 or the T-6 especiall if there is motor mods. T-6 seems to work ok with a stock bike but thats about it. They both sound the same if you are running Tommey silencers. Different silencers can change the sound.. The T-5 is an allaround mid range pipe. Good Luck !!

I would run a B8Es spark plug gapped at 28 thousands. I would try either gold in spectra or Klotz but theres a lot of good pre mix'es to use. I would run atleast a 40:1 ratio. 110 race gas would work just fine, If you want to keep the cost down on gas do 50/50.

if you drag race 80% of the time then CPI or Shearer's are the way to go. Shearer's have produced more topend power and rev out longer then CPI's on the dyno that I have seen. If all you do is drag racing then you might think about out of frames. for all around riding you can't beat the power curve of the T-5. If you can swing it I would try for some porting. That with some pipes would be like a night and day difference. Good Luck Man!!