jlevasseur

bump!

revo 3.3? whats that?

I still have it and I am located near Portland Oregon. Thanks

$275 plus the ride.....or trade

what are you looking for??? I have a set of chrome Toomey T3 pipes if interested in a trade?

thanks

ttt

$300 plus the ride? Would like to trade for pipes though...

I have a used Hot Rods 4 mill crank with 5 mill rods. Cranks has been welded. Just got rebalanced. Asking 350 + the ride or trade for chrome Shearer or CPI sb sf inframe pipes or maybe some 9-10 paddle superlites. Don't have any pics but you know what it looks like. Thanks

bump for a hommy

I'm not sure what your bike looks like, but you could also put it on a diet and drop some weight off it, replace the steering stem, axle, swingarm and all the oem stuff for starters. Also fittle around with air pressure in your tires. also I have seen a little gain in V-force reeds over boysen and shear out of frames over CPI on the dyno. 39 or 38's should help out. Do you have any pics? We might be able to help out better with some pics. JMO....

I use this tool on my bikes. Its pretty easy just follow the direction very carefully. I would imagine you would wanna be somewhere around 85 before top dead center....jmo.

any of you guys feeling the cylinder heat to check how lean the motor is running?

well you don't need to come to a complete stop but make sure your motor is down to an idle before letting the clutch out again after downshifting to first.

here's my 18DM

they are 10x4's that I want to put on my HS banshee hillshooter. The spindles look pretty close. I have been told that they will and wont work so I am just trying to figure out prior to buying them. They are HS spindles but I am pretty sure HS uses the same sindles as a OEM banshee. Thanks for all your help.

lookin at buying a pair of Direct Drive spindle mounts for my banshee that came off a yfz450. I was wondering if they will fil. I'm pretty sure the spindles are the same but would like your imput....thanks.

hey guys, I am trying to find somewhere or somehow to get a banshee that I am selling shipped from Portland Oregon to Oklahoma. If anyone has any ideas that would be greatly appriciated. Thanks -Jeff

I would for sure go with the +4 swingarm, and I would save the cash and just go with the iebach spring for the rear for $89 bucks, that will work fine, if you were to go longer then maybe have the shock revalved. I'm 280 and had a +6 and a iebach spring on the rear and it works great and I ride really aggressive here on the oregon dunes.

A longer swingarm has way more advantage's then a stock swing arm in the sand as far as racing goes. Getting a good holeshot is key when drag racing. No, as said before the longer the swing arm is, the less weight transfered over the tires you start to loose traction. Going to more paddles can help. At the track most people run rigid frames and the rear tires are pretty much set right under you for more traction, but they don't need a longer swingarm because the wheelie bar takes over that resposiblity. The swingarm will help you launch with out having to let off the throttle to keep the front end down. If the myth is true about every 3 inchess is about 5 hp (from who ever told you that), then that would mean for every three inches of swingarm would weigh about 40 lbs givin that people say every 7 lbs is 1 hp. Not sure if the 7:1 ratio is true but that gives you at least a reference point... Good Luck.

I know there is a lot of people planning on going to Florence March 19-21st. Sounds like there will be a lot of racing at comp hill and the flats if anyone is interested.

ya for sure, I just get a little crazy in the tree's and trails. I already spend stupid money on these toyz, no reason to wrap it around a tree and make me spend more...lol

Didn't want to go any wider up front because he in Oregon were I ride alot of the tree shots are pretty skinny and didn't want to hook one around a tree....lol. Was gonna put some aftermarket stock width arms on there but they went on another bike.

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