JMADD

Man, I wouldn't think so. It would never seal, imo.

It replaces the stock CDI. The software is very easy to use. I have used the launch limiter function. I broke my reeds with it; but it worked like it should.

I haven't noticed straight cuts on any of mine being louder than stock. That being said; I read the the stock gear is helical cut because of the decreased noise (as opposed to straight cut), as it was originally on a street bike (RZ), where noise would be more noticeable.

OEM? Wiseco rings are the same, top and bottom.

The webs tend to separate over time, especially on modified, high hp engines.

Oh yeah, you'll have to either run a spacer plate at the bottom of the cylinders or have your head cut (or custom domes) to allow for the + 4 mm stroke. The maximize the potential of the longer stroke, you'll need to get it ported. Your port timings will be way off if not.

The longer rod is easier on the piston skirts and crank bearings. The long rod piston is the Wiseco 795 series (if I remember correctly) and has the wrist pin higher to allow for the longer rod.

I have a friend that has a complete 2 - 1 trinity carb kit for sale. Probably let it go pretty cheap. Maybe $200. Let me know.

Yeah,you can always turn the powerjets off if you don't need them. I'd definitely install them.

Just match the colors of the wires, regardless of plug. THey are interchangeable.

You better re-jet it with those pipes. NOt sure what I'd recommend with a stock filter and lid. You won't have to spend that much on the motor, but you'll need to spend quite a bit on the suspension to get what you want. I'd just buy a YFZ for trail bike.

Some very fast guys run PVLS but the FASTEST run stock. THe Puerto Ricans all run stock ignition and have the record for fastest Twin Cylinder. I believe Dan Hull runs stock, or at least builds motors for customers with stock ignition. I've had 2 of his motors. My PVL on my 4 mil finallly took a crap, I think. Everything tests within range, but I won't know until I put stock back on. IMO, the worse thing about the PVL (other than installation) is that it doesn't retard the timing as RPMS increase (unless you buy the $650 programmable PVL- jury's still out on that, I think.)

Yeah it looks like you would have to weld some brackets on that beautiful subframe. You may be able to run the tops of the bar to the end of your grab bar, but that just seems like asking for trouble. YOu don't want that bar up your ass if something breaks or bends.

Assuming those are fresh plugs, it sounds like the cylinder that DIDN'T take a shit was lean. You probably have other issues.

Check your plugs for signs of detonation. Sounds way lean, either due to tuning or air leak.

350s should be fine. I assume you have pods, timing advance, stock porting? 25 pilots should work. PRobably no need to go to 27.5s unless it gets hard to start.

Yeah, the Raptor frame seems to be the most common one used.

X2. Not worth the money or time. I still run one on my 421, but I won't once I use all my spare pvl parts. It got to where any time the engine was f'ing up, I'd start tearing into the pvl. It wasn't always the culprit, but it was the most likely thing to screw up. I have a buddy that ran a PVL on his 18 ml DM, then went back to stock ignition. NO difference in times in 300 ft, just that his

I don't have a clymers in front of me. Do you mean that the wrist pin is able to move that much on the rod???? Either way, I've never worried about side to side movement on those, just up and down. I'd run it.

I have rebuilt several stock motors by just honing them. I did not know about chamfering the ports then, but I never had a problem with them. I guess I got lucky. Will definitely have someone chamfer them in the future. It doesn't sound like a DIY process for me.

Measure the I.D. of the exhaust port. That'll give you an idea of whether its been ported or not. I don't remember what it is out of the box, but most builders open them up more. Get a measurement, and I can compare it to one of mine.

Ok I fixed them both. Installed 6 raptor 660 clutch fibers and 2 banshee clutch fibers. Immediately fixed the problem on the Cheetah. THe Twister had problems with cables and levers, but finally got it lined out also.

I've got 2 motors with the complete hinson 8-plate system. Billet spring-loaded basket, inner and outer hub, etc. I can't stage them at the starting line because both want to pull even with the clutch all the way in. I have plenty of lever pull, and the actuator is adjusted correctly. I even overtightened the cable just to see if it still pulled; which of course it still did . What are people doing to remedy this? I'm in the process of trying to locate some stock springs, but this is BS. My stock clutch setups never pull like this, even with the HD springs and double nut lockup. I'm running ATF type F, btw. Please PM if you have an answer, so Ill see it on my phone. Thanks

Shouldn't need epoxy to trench for a 7 mil. Maybe the cases are trenched for a 14 or 16 mil? ANy epoxy or weld on the bottom of the motor? Those holes are stock, and help supply fuel/oil to the crank bearings, I think.

I may try the black silicone before I change out my intakes. I have another set of UPPs and some newly siliconed Boss intakes also (which I'm aware of the issue with those.) Dave - the UPP intakes don't leak until after lots of abuse from the carb bouncing around. Your's should be fine for a long time. THese that I have are about 3 years old.