JMADD

Banshee332 runs 500 ft. If you don't get any replies, you may check with him on what bikes run. He had a 10 mil Cub, now he's got something bigger I think. I only run 300 ft, so I don't have a clue about 500 ft.

I need the crank.

I've got an Actic Cat Prowler (side by side) 1000 cc v-twin. It's a beast. 0-50 very fast. Tops out at 70 mph with a windshield. Faster without one, I'm sure. The problem with trying to use engines such as those is the transmission. There is such a huge loss in hp at the rear wheels with those CV trannys. If you had big V-Twin with a manual transmission, that would be a monster. The motor out of this would be perfect!! Spyder (click)

What is the advantage of the arched style?

I'd like to know as well. I know of at least one builder (not on this site) that likes the wiseco cranks better. He has some fast shiat. We just bent a rod on one of our 421s (hydrolocked kick starting it). We may go with Wiseco next time.

It still has racks on it. It does have marvin shaws all around. That has to lose some weight. Dry weight is 669 lbs on a stocker, per Can Am. I'd guess around 600 lbs on this one, but not sure.

I may try that. The yamabond didn't fix it.

The intake is actually on the other side of the turbo in the pic; and the exhaust is far enough away that it can't get pulled back in. I see what your talking about now.

www.carbparts.com www.magicracing.com Find out what jets you think you need, then just order those and a couple sizes bigger and smaller.

I found one of those on my work bench the other day. I was scratching my head trying to figure out where it went. I am most likely running an engine without one.

I know of an Outlander running high 4s in 300 ft on spray. Their Renegade runs good too, just not built as much as the Outlander.

I know who has that now. It's a 10 mil Cub.Supposed to make a ridiculous amount of HP. Never saw it make a decent pass down the track, though. Yeah, turbos are retarded and don't work at all . Of course they work, but good running turbo 2 strokes are far and few between. I've seen more that run like crap than don't; but the ones that do run are the fastest around.

If they're like mine, the leak isn't coming around the bolt itself. It's leaking between the layers of the intake boot, and it just escapes around the bolt holes in the intake where the rubber is cut out. Silicone on the treads doesn't help mine.

I've got the same problem as we speak on my 421. Both intakes leak. The air is getting in between the inner metal layer of the boot, and the outer rubber layer. I put some yamabond on the entire surface of the intake boot. It helped some, but it still leaks down to about 3 lbs in about 3 minutes. I may have another leak somewhere, not sure. I'm gonna run mine as is. I have one more race this year. Probably investigate the leak further over the winter.

I gave up trying to get ahold of him. I needed a base gasket for my 10 mil Cub he build, and I forgot the thickness. Never did get to talk to him or have him return the call. Glad your motor runs good. I hope my 10 mil does...I've been fighting issues with it since it was built (long story); not builder related issues.

No need to apologize. Just kicking myself for selling it. It ran its best pass ther last week. Nothing different done to it since I had it. Hoping my 16 cheetah runs even better. And, to stay on subject of the thread. I'll again say that a good setup 421 cub, or even 397, will stomp any raptor on the track. you could run the cub on a stock chassis and the raptor on a drag chassis on motor.

Well, I don't even own that bike (in my sig) anymore. I gave it way.. er.,sold it to Eric.

A single 35 pwk would work fine. I have a friend that has the complete trinity 2 into 1 kit for sale, including cable. Let me know if your interested. 21 or 22 cc domes would be easier on your crank (less compression) and your pocket book (pump gas).

I always wonder why when the track gets loose, I always run like crap; but you still got guys knocking off 3.60s like clockwork on the same loose track. I'm that guy that can't tune the setup of my bike, or can't ride, I guess. Put my 50 lb lighter buddy on there and he picks up 3 tenths.

Swap plug wires left to right and see if the problem follows. If not, clean both carbs and sync them again. If that doesn't work, do a pressure test.

Why not just go 10 mil? Cost about the same.

I wouldn't run 19 cc domes on pump gas. Also, as mentioned, those carbs are too big. Just put the stockers back on there. The big carbs are gonna be difficult to jet, because your motor isn't pulling enough air through the carbs to get the correct amount of fuel. If you insist on running those carbs, let us know what jets and needles are in them.

So you put new pistons in? Hence "rebuild." Did you hone the cylinders? Just popping in new pistons without honing can lead to that. However, you didn't actually mention pistons, so I'm confused about your rebuild.

I buy from: F.A.S.T, Magicracing.com, bikebandit.com. In that order from most$$$ to least$. A few purchases for Rocky Mountain Atv over the years also.

BFH. I bought my first sledge hammer years ago just to knock that bolt out. Don't think I've used it since.