JMADD

Man, I wouldn't think so. It would never seal, imo.

It replaces the stock CDI. The software is very easy to use. I have used the launch limiter function. I broke my reeds with it; but it worked like it should.

I haven't noticed straight cuts on any of mine being louder than stock. That being said; I read the the stock gear is helical cut because of the decreased noise (as opposed to straight cut), as it was originally on a street bike (RZ), where noise would be more noticeable.

OEM? Wiseco rings are the same, top and bottom.

The webs tend to separate over time, especially on modified, high hp engines.

Oh yeah, you'll have to either run a spacer plate at the bottom of the cylinders or have your head cut (or custom domes) to allow for the + 4 mm stroke. The maximize the potential of the longer stroke, you'll need to get it ported. Your port timings will be way off if not.

The longer rod is easier on the piston skirts and crank bearings. The long rod piston is the Wiseco 795 series (if I remember correctly) and has the wrist pin higher to allow for the longer rod.

I have a friend that has a complete 2 - 1 trinity carb kit for sale. Probably let it go pretty cheap. Maybe $200. Let me know.

Yeah,you can always turn the powerjets off if you don't need them. I'd definitely install them.

Just match the colors of the wires, regardless of plug. THey are interchangeable.

You better re-jet it with those pipes. NOt sure what I'd recommend with a stock filter and lid. You won't have to spend that much on the motor, but you'll need to spend quite a bit on the suspension to get what you want. I'd just buy a YFZ for trail bike.

Some very fast guys run PVLS but the FASTEST run stock. THe Puerto Ricans all run stock ignition and have the record for fastest Twin Cylinder. I believe Dan Hull runs stock, or at least builds motors for customers with stock ignition. I've had 2 of his motors. My PVL on my 4 mil finallly took a crap, I think. Everything tests within range, but I won't know until I put stock back on. IMO, the worse thing about the PVL (other than installation) is that it doesn't retard the timing as RPMS increase (unless you buy the $650 programmable PVL- jury's still out on that, I think.)

Yeah it looks like you would have to weld some brackets on that beautiful subframe. You may be able to run the tops of the bar to the end of your grab bar, but that just seems like asking for trouble. YOu don't want that bar up your ass if something breaks or bends.

Assuming those are fresh plugs, it sounds like the cylinder that DIDN'T take a shit was lean. You probably have other issues.

Check your plugs for signs of detonation. Sounds way lean, either due to tuning or air leak.