KickStartMyHeart

Heres mine. Its on the trailer ready for snakehunt but u get the point haha!

Did u check the clearance on the pickup and flywheel? I had the same problem and I forgot to locktite my pickup and the bolts fell out and about ruined my stator.

You can go to bikebandit.com and look at the diagram for the shifter assembly and get all those washers, lil bolts, springs and shiftshaft.

WOW!! 350 mains with your mods should be plenty!! Hmmmm. I had a major leak in mine and the dealership just kept puttin bigger jets in it to overcompensate for the air leak and they ended up putting a 420 main in a relativley STOCK bike! I was livid pissed when I got it back and burned it up. I tore it all apart and built it from nothing and have never had a problem since. Im running real aggressive ported cylinders, +4 timing, milled head, t-5 pipes, 30mm carbs, v-3 reeds. 350 mains should be plenty good. Im curious as to what ur pilot jet is. But im almost positive it got hot from being lean and burned it up.

Im telling ya fellas it pissed me off that I didnt have neutral. I replaced the shift shaft, springs and everything in the shifting assembly. Even if your stuff in your current shifting assembly looks fine, REPLACE IT!! This is a high wear part and the tensioner springs wear and just get sloppy. Dont sluff on buying lil stupid washers and lock washers either. buy it all and spend the $50-$60 and do it right the first time.

Yeap, u were too lean and got it hot. I would take it back to whomever rebuilt it and tell them to fix the shit right and parts and labor are on them! Thats fuckin bullshit in my books. What jets were in it when u burned it up?

LOL!! I installed mine, and fought with it for an hour and yanked it all back apart and stuck the stocker back in it. U'll never find nuetral if u dont notch out the nuetral grove, but I wouldnt do it myself. I would have a machine shop do it. As for how much to take off of it, who knows. I replaced my entire shift assembly and have never had a problem with shifting ever since. I think the total price of all the parts to replace all the springs, shift shaft and everything was $50. I like brandon over at Mull engineering, but their shift stars need a lil revamping. He stands by his product and offered to notch it out more, but by that time I had already replaced everything with new sttuff.

Pull the head off and look at it and u can tell if the headgasket blew or not. Im betting it blew the head gasket and its not sealiing and keeping pressure.

I had this issue a while back and what had happened was my waterpump bearing was full of plastic debris from the gear shearing off so therefore it wasnt flowing water and resulted in a blown headgasket cuz it got too hot. Did it smell "hot" or did it overheat on u? When mine got hot, i could smell it baaaad. I put a new gear and billet iimpeller, new headgasket and an inline cooler (which is the biggest rip-off gimmick ever). Those things dont do jack shit but clutter shit up lol!

Oooooh yeah!! I voted right!! lol!

Those boost ports are TINY!!!!! OMG, mine are double that size and my intake is opened up waaaay more than that

This topic is a never ending topic. I have a very aggressive port on my cylinders (real close to a drag port) and I freaked out when I had 135lbs of compression after a fresh top end and a milled head. The reasoning for this is because my exhaust ports have been raised therefore lowering compression. Whether this is true or not im totally positive, but ive spoke to several known guys in the industry and they all said the same thing. I do not have specs on my porting, but JSR performance is the one who ported my cylinders. I also got the milled head from them as well. Im not sure of my elevation, but im in wichita ks. I got soo damn wrapped up in worrying about compression all the time and tearing it back down to bump the compression to 150 lbs that I finally said F it and just ride the damn thing. Mine runs real strong and will beat 450's and raptor 700's all day long with my 135 psi compression. I have a coolhead, but have not installed it yet and wont until after snakehunt. Its dialed in just fine right now and dont feel like f'n with it while im down at snakehunt. I plan on replacing the head when I get back with 20 or 21 cc domes just so I can run 91 octane or a blended fuel.

back to the top!

Since they were painted, they have 1 trip to waynoka on them. And when I say "trip", i mean about 1 hour because my headgasket blew and I put it back on the trailer. I took them off because they are too nice to get f'd up. I bought a set of yellow plastics that are not as nice and wont worry about it if they get f'd up. The paint is holding up fine. They were originally white plastics, so if you didnt want them red, you could strip the paint off and paint em any color ya want. PM a cellphone # or email and I will send u some pics this afternoon. I just got a new phone yesterday and still trying to figure it out on how to get pics from my phone to my computer so it may be easier to just text em to you.

Thanks brother!! Preciate the bump! It seems like I cant hardly give these things away.

$125 +shipping!!

LOL!!! Welcome to the banshee world. Just keep it in the "powerband".

TTT!!

Come on fellas, make an offer. I know I didnt put "OBO" in the post, but surely someone can make an offer. I am looking for a coolhead, so if anyone has one of those we can work out a trade maybe. Im not married to the damn things, but know they're worth some money.

I have a set of red banshee front and rear fenders I no longer need. They were originally white. I wet sanded them to get all the surface scratches out of them and ended up with if i remember correctly 800 grit paper. I used krylon fusion paint on them and they have 4 coats of paint on them. I then clear coated them with the krylon gloss clear coat and put 4 layers of clear on. The front fenders are race cut. I'd like to get $175 + shipping for them. Here is a pic of them on my bike. I can get other pics if needed. Im located in Wichita, KS.

Come on boys!! Someone has something on this question

I would like to know who is running the toomey needle kit and how you like it. What is so special about the needle kit? And will I see some gains from the kit? Im running stock carbs now and thinking about upgrading to 35mm carbs, and will this kit work in a set of 35mm carbs? My setup consists of: milled head, +4 timing, JSR ported cylinders, T-5 pipes, Vforce 3 reeds.

We'll be down Monday for a day trip. We're gonna try and park in southcamp. I'll have my lifted black dodge and a lil utility trailer with my yellow and black shee and my friends blue shee. Camatv and I are meeting up down there as well. See u boys on the strip.

mix a flex additive with your paint. My crotch rocket has flex additive mixed in it and has never had a problem. WIth that being said, quad fenders flex a lot more than a crotch rocket plastic.

WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!!! I took my plastics which were white and sanded them. I started out at a 220 grit and worked all the way up to an 800 grit. I wet sanded every step. After I sanded each step, I let them dry, wiped them down with a towel soaked in some carb cleaner to get all the residue off the plastics. After I got done sanding I bought 4 cans of Kryon fusion. I started out with a light coat and ended up with 5 coats of paint on the plastics. I used the Krylon gloss clear coat, but I was not happy with it due to it being splochy. I ended up taking them to a painter and having him spray em down with a lacqure (mispelled) finish and I think he put 3 coats on. I have spilled gas on the tank cover and have never had any problems with them flaking, bubbling etc.... The only scratch I have in the plastics is on the nose piece where I was in a hurry and pulled the nose clip off and wedged it in between the headlights and scratched one side. Your final product is only as good as the time you take to prep the plastics. If you hurry through the sanding process, you'll have a shitty end product once you put the paint on. Take your time and get your elbow full of greace and start sanding.