KickStartMyHeart

Well I tore the top end apart last night and before I took the jugs off, I wiggled the pistons and there was a lot of play in the pistons (they moved quite freely from side to side in the cylinder). Sooooo with that being said, I took the jugs off and the jugs looked fine along with the pistons. The pistons weren't glazed or smoothed out in any spots at all. I was running outta time, so today im going to mic the cylinders and see what that tells me. The best part of last night was going to pick up a true welded crank, ported jugs and a new set of pistons for $350. My friend took them off his running banshee to build a 4mil cheetacub. He showed me the dyno sheet with those jugs and it made 70 hp. I'm going to take the motor out tonight and my mechanic at the dealership said he would trade me my jugs and crank to put the welded crank in and rebuild the bottom end and put the top end back together. I'm to the point now where I want it to be "right" and not just keep putting top ends back in it. something is going on in the bottom end I think so its winter time and time to do it in steps and make some hp and put those CPI's to use.

It was really cold out yesterday on the dyno. I'm thinking there has to be a leak somewhere. I'm gonna try and run a leakdown test 2nite then if that checks out, tear the jugs off and look at the pistons and rings and cylinders. Hopefully I can hone them and put a set of rings in it and be just fine. Buuuuuuuut I doubt it will be that easy! It never is!

There was no signs of it running lean at all. It ran like a stripped ass ape!! I'm totally clueless on whats wrong with it. i'm tearing it down 2morrow to check the rings and the cylinders. Hopefully I can just hone it and put a set of rings in it and be done.

The dealership did some sort of leak test today where they sprayed soapy water on some things to see if it was leaking anywhere and no leaks. As far as a true leakdown test, no.

When we had it tore apart, we checked the rods and they were fine. I'm betting it got hot and smoked the rings from running lean. Hopefully the pistons are ok, but I highly doubt it. 99.9% of the time when u smoke the rings your piston is f'd and it messed up the cylinders too!

Whats ur email and I'll send u pics of it.

I just had the top end rebuilt less than a month ago. Took it to the dunes after the top end rebuild and I get it back and have to put a new clutch in it. Before I tore the clutch apart, I do a compression test and I have 125lbs of pressure in each cylinder. I put it on the dyno and its runnin WAAAAAY lean....still has 50hp though. I put on CPI pipes, new clutch, and TORS Eliminator kit and stick it back on the dyno today. It makes 47hp. But here's the best part...The dealership had to put 420 main jets in it and 27.5 pilots to cure the lean problem!!! 420 F'n main jets.....u gotta be kidding me!! Alcohol banshee's don't hardly run that big of main jet!!! Oh and after the motor is warmed up they do a compression test and I got 115 lbs of pressure in each F'n cylinder!! Sooooo...I gotta tear the motor back down and put a new top end back in it after 1 F'n weekend!! The damn thing prolly got hot while running lean and smoked the pistons and rings resulting in low compression!! WOW!! I could take the easy route and put a coolhead on it and 20cc domes and put some compression to it, but it will eventually seize it up!! Any ideas???? If anyone wants to buy it, lemme know. I live in Wichita, KS and I'm almost to the point of putting it in the back of my truck and leaving it in nuetral and dump out the back going 70mph, I'm that pissed about this!

LOL!! they forgot to unplug the TORS control module! So, when we unplugged it, and set all the idle screws, it idled just fine! LOL, jesus what a deal! 2morrow morning it goes on the dyno. Nmotion put bigger jets in after the first run on the dyno prior to the TORS and CPI's due to it being super lean. I believe they put 27.5 pilots in it to start at, but didn't touch the main jets yet. Any guesses on what the jetting will be 2morrow??? I have no clue on the main jets, but I'm guessing 29.0's for the pilots. Any guesses on HP?....With a smoked clutch, it made 50 hp and SUPER lean with t-6's.

My mods consist of a new top end (bored .030) wiseco pistons. Pro design airfilter, CPI bigbore inframe pipes, Tors eliminator and thats about it. I ordered the timing plate to get 4 degrees of timing tonight. I live in Wichita, KS and its around 50 degrees here right now. Oh, and I got boysen reeds. I have the stock airbox with no lid if that helps too.

Well before I put the tors eliminator on, it was running lean and had too small of pilots in it. we put in the 27.5's for a starting spot to get rid of it being lean. the main jets for sure need to be adjusted also. Once I get it to idle we can put it on the dyno to see if its running lean and what not and show us where to start for jetting. I'm new to the banshee's and am scared to death of burning the damn thing up. I just had the top end rebuilt and change the oil every 3-4 times out. I know its overkill on maintenance, but I wanna have a reliable machine and prevent major malfunctions.

I am running a K&N stock replacement filter. I haven't messed with the main jets yet because I wanted to get the idle set first and dyno it to tune it and adjust the pilots and main jets accordingly. Of course I have to get it to idle before I can put it on the dyno and mess with the jets. The idle screw came with the kit and the yamaha dealership modified and installed everything. We adjusted the screws on the side of the carbs and also the ones on top of the caps and still couldn't get it to idle....?????

Hey tuffguy thanks for the help. I posted so I could get some help on what might be wrong, not a smartass answer from you. So if anyone has some knowledge on how to fix the problem or insight on what might be wrong with the carbs, please lemme know. Oh and thanks for the help coronakidd...i'd prolly have better luck asking a 3 yr old. Good day to ya! lol!

Ok, I traded my t-6's and $150 for an almost new set of CPI's and stingers. They are big bore pipes, but for that kind of a deal, I'm not going to hesitate. I have an '01 banshee with a fresh top end (.030 bore). This is the only thing done to the bike besides the pipes. I had my mechanic at the dealership install the TORS eliminator saturday, and put in 27.5 pilots in it because it was running lean. With that said, I put the pipes, tors eliminator and 27.5 pilots all in saturday. After all this was installed, we tried setting the idle. Well, typical banshee lol!!...we worked on the idle for over an hour and couldn't get the idle set. It won't idle unless you keep giving it fuel. I have boysen reeds in it as well, if that helps diagnose the problem here. I am clueless on what to do. My next mod is going to be the 4 degree timing mod to make up for the loss in bottom end power. If anyone has had this issue, please learn me on how you fixed it. Thanks everyone!

Can you email some pics of the cool head? [email protected] Thank you!

Come to think of it, my friend has a welded crank just sitting in his garage he offered to sell to me during sandfest. I will give him a call. I'd imagine all the bearings would have to be replaced when putting a new crank in?

Famous last words right!....."I want to run pumpgas" lol!! For now, I want to run pumpgas just for the simple fact of availability and cost and also other mods I would have to do the be able to run race fuel. And I just don't have the money right now to do all of that. I thinkthe 21cc domes with the cool head and timing will be a nice gain and let me run the stock crank.

Damn!!!! I should be plenty ok with 21cc domes on a stock bottom end then!!! My only other concern is leakage. I've heard some horror stories about the o-rings leaking on the cool heads. Any issues??

The timing is getting advanced with a conservative 4 degrees actually this week., Would 145-150 psi be to high on a "non-welded" crank?

So if I'm reading this correctly, lower number (18cc)=higher compression? 21cc = a little bit lower compression. With 21cc domes, I could still run 91 octane fuel and be ok? Do you know exactly how much of a compression bump it would be with 21cc domes? Will it be enuff of a compression boost to have to weld the crank?

Can someone explain the number that coensides with the domes like for example: 21 cc domes, what does the "21" mean? I have 130 lbs of pressure in each cylinder after the bore if that helps. How much will 20 or 21 cc domes increase my cylinder pressure? Will it add more horsepower to the motor? Will I need to have the crank welded with a 20 or 21cc domes? I know its a lot of questions, but I truely do not know and I am wanting to learn and I truely appreciate all the input fella's.

I live in the middle of Kansas (wichita). I run 91 octane pumpgas. The elevation is 1,299ft above sea level.

I have an '01 with T-6 pipes, recently bored .030 over with Wiseco pistons and top end kit. I am looking at purchasing a "cool head", but not sure what size of domes to run in a relatively stock bike. I have no port work done and the crank is stock and NOT welded. I want the bike to be dependable relatively fast, should I consider putting a cool head on it or leave the stock head??

With that being said about my friend who builds drag banshee's, would ya trust him to do a mild port? Now correct me if I'm wrong, but all porting is is just cleaning up and smoothing the cylinders for less restrictive air flow??

Rubberneck, I think you're right on "bigger is not always better". My friend builds drag banshee's. He has 4 drag banshee's and he just built his wife one. He's a good dude, but I'm not sure if I trust em enuff to go porting my cylinders. My other friend I just got back from sandfest with has a 100 hp banshee and I rode it and it just isn't that fun to ride actually. Tons of power yes!...but usable power for most of my style of riding...NO! I should have the clutch in tonight along with bigger jets and hopefully have another dyno run 2morrow to get it dialed in exact. I will scan in the dyno sheet and post it if I can get it all done before I leave for Michigan tomorrow. Here's a thought...I could keep my T-6's and do a mild port instead of buying new pipes and porting on top of that and then having it rejetted again??? I ordered a Barnett "Dirt Digger" clutch, so hopefully it will last me a while. I'm just torn in between what I want and what i need lol!! I don't want a 100 hp banshee, I'd like to have a 65 hp banshee and whoop up on some 4 strokes. I'm sorry, but I can't stand 4 strokes. I will NEVER own one. I enjoy tinkering with the 2 strokes and of course the exhaust sound of a winding 2 stroke lol!! As soon as I get it off the dyno, I will post pics of the dyno sheet. I'm hoping for 55 hp with a new clutch and jets. I just purchased a tors eliminator kit yesterday to get rid of those ugly chicken heads on the carbs. Anyone have any input on eliminator kits?

I'm not a huge fan of my t-6's. I like the looks of the CPI's but I don't wanna port the cylinders and tear the damn thing apart again. So with that being said, I'll try and find some t-5's or some exhaust that makes more power than the t-6's. If I could run the CPI's, I would, but I think I'll lose all bottom end power. On the otherhand, a banshee doesn't have much bottom end from what I know (which isn't much). Any thoughts on running CPI small bore pipes on my set up???