White97Banshee

Hey right on man.. Welcome. I think the most basic mods are pipes, filters, a cool head (or a shaved factory head), reeds, and +4 advanced timing. I personally like my Toomey T5's. Think they sound great and I get a great mid-top end without sacrificing too much bottom end. You will soon find out that even after you do all that to it you'll still want it to be faster! It's a never ending addiction lol

Thanks guys! I think I'm going to run the Supertechniplate at 40:1. I like the fact that the synthetic blend burns a little cleaner than natural oils and I can run it at 40:1 so it lasts a little longer and I can go maybe an extra 500-1000 feet on a tank of gas lol. I already know my jetting is about 1-2 sizes too rich but I leave it that way on purpose because I'm just paranoid as hell about it being lean!

Ah I thought so.. He's full of crap about a lot of things but I figured it would be best to ask. Do you think I would be safe running either at 40:1 on Premium 92 octane gas? Or does the Yamalube need a richer mixture than the Supertechniplate?

Ever since I got my bike in April, I have ran it with Castor 927 at 40:1. The top end blew so I replaced it but when I was taking it all apart I noticed the cylinders and exhaust is just a complete mess.. Not to mention it's pricey (33 bucks for a half gallon). I started the break in with 927 at 32:1 and am now running it back at 40:1. I wanna switch to Klotz Supertechniplate (the 80-20 one) but a buddy of mine told me that for whatever reason it's a bad thing to switch oils? He said once I break in the motor with 927 I have to use that till the next rebuild. Is that true? Because I would really like to use the Klotz in order to save money and save the mess associated with the 927.. Would the Klotz lubricate at least as good as the 927? From what I understand it burns clean because of the 80% synthetic but still provides sufficient lubrication with the 20% BeNOL. Would I be okay to run it at 40:1 still to lube as good as the 927? Any help would be much appreciated! P.S. sorry for the long post lol I'm not that good at condensing what I want to say.

Well on my stock motor 'Shee with T5's, pods and VF2's I ran stock gearing with 10 paddle Edge's. I like the setup and I can make it out of almost anything but the front end lifts too much in 2nd which results in occasionally getting stuck (in really gay spots to get out of). So I bumped the front sprocket up to a 15t and we'll see how she goes. But you say you don't have sand? So dirt treeshots? I would think you should be fine with whatever set up you have. So long as it's not too wide so you can fit between the trees.

First off, NICE 'Shee! Love those colors with the black pipes. Looks very sick. But back to business. I think the next most bang for your buck mod to do would be some porting. There are a couple site sponsors here like F.A.S.T. and Herr Juggs Racing that are very reputable and do very good port work for your specific needs. I think from both of them a dune port (mid-top end power) is around 300 bucks or so. Just ship your cylinders out to them and let 'em know what you want. Make sure you decide if you want to stroke it first though because from what I hear, if you port your cylinders, then put a stroker crank in, you need new cylinders. But if you get the cylinders ported to run a 4 mil you're set. But if you want to stay stock stroke, then a good porting job would be next on the to-do list.

Looks better than polished carbs IMO. Great job that was a pretty good idea.. I think I'm gonna steal it

Yeah a little. It came that way when I bought it.. Under the plastic I found a crack and bend in the frame right after the weld. It's only on the little piece that sticks out that you bolt the grab bar to. Makes it a PITA to take the silencers on/off but I don't wanna "fix it" and end up breaking it off completely.

So the carbs are perfect and you put new plugs in and the reeds are fine.. Pull the plug out and check if it's even getting spark. I believe in order to do that you pull both plugs out and kick it a few times and look at the end of the spark plug when you kick it and see if the spark jumps at the tip. Give that a try and let us know how it goes.

I wouldn't know what exactly is causing the problem but the way I troubleshoot is pulling things apart till I find something that's not correct.. I would start at the carburetor. Soak it in the carb cleaner dip you can buy. Maybe pull the bowl off and check the jets and see if they're clogged. Make sure the reeds flex a little (maybe they're sealed shut somehow)? Hope that helps a little.

Thanks guys. I'll try to pick up a kit on Monday. How much do you think it will run me?

An advantage is that it will produce a slightly less turbulent air intake than if you bolt the filters straight onto your carbs. This (according to Toomey Racing) should produce a more efficient airflow and it will prevent fuel from getting blown out the intake and into the filters. This setup is similar to their 2 into 1 filter kit with the long tubes. I really like that idea because of that but I didn't like Toomey's filter. Just a bit of info you could use to help push this thing.

Hey guys. I just changed my oil cuz I was low and noticed it was dripping somewhere when it was full. Upon further inspection I noticed that a couple of the holes that hold the clutch case bolts have stripped threads and don't seal enough. I haven't taken the clutch case off since I've bought it yet so I didn't notice it till now. Is there any way to fix them? or at least a way to get a good enough seal on the clutch case minus a couple bolts? Any help would be appreciated!

Definitely get them checked out with a measuring device.. When my top end blew, the cylinder walls looked perfect but upon further inspection by a boring shop the guy found some deep gauges. Also just out of curiosity why do you have a planned date on selling it?

Do you use that stuff instead of an actual head gasket? And for the reed screws, a dab of yamabond won't hurt em. and it should help keep it in place snug. I personally don't use anything but a little muscle for my VF2 reed screws though. Not too tight though! You don't want to crack the petals which will lead to more damage further down the line.

Banana yellow frame, a-arms, swinger, hubs with white fenders and yellow tank/radiator covers is what I got stuck with. Next time I rebuild I'm stripping the whole frame down and will probably paint the frame all black and the swinger, axle and a-arms black with white hubs and a white carrier.

Nice man you did a badass job cutting those. Looks great & I love the axle too.

The guy was selling a rear but I like how soft my stock rear is right now.. I was only gonna pick up the fronts but the guy already sold em

Yeah but the way I see it this leaves me open to options. I can either get the mid-top cuts or the low-mid cuts and fine-tune it whenever I like, whereas if I get it ported it's kind of permanent. But if it's really that big a difference then it will probably be the next top end kit I buy.

Sweet it makes it easy to find the master link whenever you need to break it.

I just realized... Was this picture taken in your back yard or something? You have a TV outside? That's badass.. You can ride the 'Shee and watch TV at the same time

Thanks guys, I know the lines aren't perfectly straight but if I get bored again I can straighten em out with a file or something. I ride only dunes so I can stand to have em cut like that. And scott, yes I think it's time to do it too haha 2 years is a good enough time period. I like the way your fronts are cut too by the way. Most I've seen are shaved completely off.

Damn dude I just checked out that thread you posted.. I gotta say I'm very impressed with your polishing! What do you use as a protective coating when you're finished? I got bored and polished my throttle cover and it looked great till I took it for a ride in Oregon.. Now It's covered in salt and it's all dull! I think I will probably get these shocks as I don't really like the way the stock ones ride in the rough stuff.

Isn't 24:1 really rich for a semi synthetic premix oil? Also either patch up that crack on the intake or get a new boot, or it might come back to bite you in the ass later. I had the same deal and it caused my top end to go boom!