White97Banshee

I've had this shee since last April and (every time since I've gotten it) I ride it out of a treeshot in the Oregon dunes it makes this knocking that I can feel. I don't exactly know what it could be because on flat ground and minor inclines it doesn't do that but when I ride out of treeshots in the sand it always does it. Other than that shee runs just fine. I know the clutch is worn pretty bad so I have a new one coming but I'm not sure if this is related to that. I've been told it could be jetting or octane but I'd just like a second opinion on the matter. Mods are: Toomey T5's K&N Pods +4 timing modded stock stator VF2 reeds 320 or 330 mains in the stock carbs can't remember all I know is they're a size or 2 too rich Thanks!

I would think so because the Helicoil threads are very strong so you should be good. You could even put loctite in the threads of the helicoil so it stays in there solid.

I have +4 timing sorry I thought that was in my sig, it is brand new radiator fluid, stock impellar, and my jetting is 1-2 sizes too rich and it's a stock head.

I always run 92 octane, and I'm not sure because it's always done that since I've gotten it but like I said only when I'm coming out of steep treeshots, not when drag racing or speeding across flat ground.

I run 40:1

Still nothing? Also I'm in the market for a new clutch pack and was wondering what's gonna last a while and not hurt the bank very much? Basically best bang for the buck?

Nobody has anything to say?

So I just got back from Sand Lake, OR and I noticed that when I am coming out of the treeshots rapped out in 2nd i feel a knocking in the motor somewhere, but it doesn't do that when I am on flat ground going really fast. I kind of figured it to be the clutch slipping because I know it's an old clutch but I didn't think it would knock like that? Also when I have the clutch pulled in while it's in gear it wants to move forward. What could cause all this? Secondly, I want to get more power out of the 'Shee (not that it doesn't have plenty as is), and was wondering what would be a good route to take, I know there will be porting involved but am unsure if I really need to go with a 4 mil crank. I only ride at the Oregon dunes and I do mostly treeshots but some trails and drag racing too. What kind of port job should I get for that kind of riding and would I be happy with a 4mm or is it just too much? Thanks for all the help! By the way my mods are in my sig

Sounds to me like an intake leak.. The first place I'd check is where you got that boost bottle hooked up to, on mine it ripped the intake boots causing a lean condition on the right cylinder and the piston ended up melting in the cylinder.

I put a longer bolt through and put a nut on the end of it as a clamp cuz I had one laying around and it seems to work just fine. Thanks!

So my shift lever bolt finally got stripped out and needs replacing, but it's too bad to check what the size/pitch was. I googled and searched here for a while and had no results, so I was wondering do any of you guys know what size bolt is the correct one to clamp the kickstart lever to the shift shaft? Thanks in advance!

Haha I know this sounds lazy and lame but I keep my 'Shee jetted 2 or so sizes too rich just so I don't have to bother with it when I go riding in the cold like that. And after I broke her in, she ran GREAT! Pulled real hard on a 660 with a high comp piston, stage 2 cams, pipe, k&n and jetting. Also left a piped/filtered YFZ in the dust. Kinda hard on the launch though with 1 tooth down on the front sprocket for treeshots.. The front end doesn't like to stay on the ground!

Thanks for all the replies guys! They all really helped a LOT. I like the idea of doing a few plug chops and having it almost be done! I've had people tell me to run 3-5 tanks through and keep it off the pipes to break it in (like that'll ever happen!). I'm taking the 'Shee to Juniper dunes in eastern WA tomorrow and it's gonna be freezing cold and some good times as well haha. We'll see how well my bros newly built 240 blaster will keep up now

That looks AWESOME, I've seen this before but not the components up close.. How tough was the process of getting all the geometry to work? How far is the gap between that spindle and the tire? Looks like a few hairs at most lol.

I just put a set on my 'Shee yesterday and tried em today.. They project a lot brighter than stock, and as I said, I put a 20w spotlight on one of them so they also go further than stock. Spent about 25 bucks total.

Damn at 30 bucks a bulb I'd just go get the walmart (trailtech knock-offs) lights. They're 20 bucks and come with 2x 50w halogen floods. I changed out one of them for a 20w spot bulb for distance.

Yami dealers round here all hire a buncha toolsheds lol they know nothing really about 2 strokes at all.. or bikes in general for that matter. I'll ask them about say a chain tensioner and they don't know what that is.. But thanks for the info guys! I'll break it in running Klotz at 40:1 like I usually run it.

I know this has probably been covered millions of times but I have looked everywhere and cannot find a straight, definite answer on the subject: Does it matter what oil to use during break-in? I just put a new set of rings on and had em honed and gotta do the break-in procedure (also would like some insight on that) and I have been told by many people that it is a no-no to use any synthetic oil (Castor 927, Klotz, etc).. Is this true? I will be running Klotz Supertechniplate 80/20 blend and all the dealers I've spoken to say to use Yamalube and that the Klotz will be bad for the engine during break-in.. If someone could clear some things up for me that would be great! Thanks in advance!

I run both my Edge's and my Haulers at about 3-4PSI all the time. I also ran the Geckos on my Blaster at 4psi. Never tried more than that though..

I like to ride the open areas fast and climb bowls at night but I recently got into riding trails and screwing myself over in treeshots in the middle of the night haha, so for that a spot/flood combo would work well for me? I might have to try that 50/20 you speak of..

I was thinking of picking up a pair of 35w floods, how do you like the spot/flood setup?

They look exactly like them right out of the box.. Other than that they most likely aren't half as durable and the salt from the Oregon dunes will probably make em look like crap but all i care about is if they're bright or not lol. I think I've been pushing my luck riding WOT in the middle of the night on the dunes with stock headlights lol.

No, the Wally World lights come with 50W halogens but I'll change them for a pair of 35W as I believe the stock stator is 75w? So that leaves 5w left for tail light and the ignition etc.. Should be pretty bright, at least I hope so.

Sorry I can't find em on Walmart's website. But they're called like Blazer or something? They look exactly like Trail Tech lights but are like 100 bucks cheaper lol.

Are you trying to beat the Raptor in a drag race? If that's what you're looking to do then I'd ditch the 2:1 carb deal, as you'll lose a lot of top end with that setup. But if you're trying to lose him on the trails then keep it, and other than that everything looks good, go with the right gearing and let her rip.