White97Banshee

I'd be interested in the kicker if it hasn't been sold yet, LMK please.

I've never heard squeaking that bad before.. But yeah I think just grease the living hell out of everything and see where that gets you. Yeah a plain ol' grease gun hand powered or pneumatic will work (be careful with the pneumatic ones they are very powerful) and i think just that plain old grease for stock bushings. You only need special grease when you use polyurethane bushings.

Looks good, maybe more pics of different angles?

I would just go through it and make sure everything is tight all suspension and steering related fasteners as well as grease every zerk fitting on the bike. There might be one hidden in the pivot bearing on the swingarm itself I can't remember it's been a while since I've looked. Check the dogbone too see if it's got any zerk fittings as well. Hope that helps. Kyle

If your thumb gets tired then just get an extended thumb throttle lever from Cascade. They're like 30 bucks for a brushed finish billet aluminum and for me it completely got rid of the thumb fatigue. After riding with the extended thumb lever on the Shee even my new YFZ tired me out so I got one for it too. A twister is kinda rough in patches of whoops if you get stuck in bumps and can't let off the throttle it could be bad. Another thing is it could be difficult to throttle it while turning the bars to the right. JMO. Kyle

The one that is not grinded is after the 6th gear slot, thus there is no point in grinding that one. There is one point that has a U on it, rather than being rounded out. That is neutral and the slot before that is 1st gear if you spin it clockwise. It goes 1st (N) 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th then the pointy tip. No need to grind off much just round out the points is all. I bought one from Cascade for 35 bucks but the stocker can easily be modified with a bench grinder and a steady hand or a vice and an angle grinder. Hope that helps! Kyle

The one I patched up was the right side cylinder and the left was neither side leaks I know this for sure. I'm just stumped as to why the left side blew and the right has no signs of detonation whatsoever. I know it's not from a lean condition as it would more than likely have siezed before burning a hole in the piston. My water pump is still fine and there are no problems with coolant flowing so detonation is the only thing I can think possible but I just can't see using 3 month old gas as a problem. I think you're right about the plastic container though because I don't use fuel stabilizer as I usually run my gas before it gets a chance to turn old. Hopefully someone can confirm my thoughts and address the other 2 questions.

First off, my mods are: Toomey T5's, stock carbs jetted 27.5 pilots 1.5 turns out 330 mains, k&n pods, vf2 reeds. I took the 'shee to oregon for some dune riding this weekend and shee was running real strong for the first couple hours but after a few runs through the trails and treeshots it started taking a dump on me all of the suddon like it completely lost compression and wouldn't stay running. I took it home and today i tore it apart and found the left side piston has a hole in it and it looks like almost like a slab of concrete and the left side combustion chamber is destroyed. Now I know that I don't have any intake leaks and I know my jetting is 1 size too rich (I keep it that way so I don't have to rejet to ride where I live and at sea level). I run her at 40:1 on Klotz Supertechniplate. I think it's detonation but I run a stock head on 92 octane pump gas so I don't know why it would be detonating? The only thing I could think of was the gas I was running was a few months old but it WAS premix and I regularly shake it up and keep the fuel and oil mixed well. Could running old gas cause detonation? Another thing since I have the top end apart I was wondering what's a good amount of play to have in the crank? How much side-to-side motion should a stock crank have? I know too much/too little is a bad thing but since I'm already replacing the top end I want to see if I need to either pick up a new crank or get mine trued/welded while I got it apart. ONE last thing, I pulled the clutch case off and noticed a washer sitting in there and the idler gear between the clutch basket and the kicker gear is very loose on there. I know F.A.S.T makes replacement bushings for the gear as well as the circlip that holds it in place and the washer itself (mine is bent pretty badly) but is there a way to tell that just putting a new bushing in there will work? Thanks in advance and sorry for the essay! Kyle

So are flat slides "better" than round or D slides? It seems like jetting would be different with flat than D or round because of that.

x2 my tusk case saver came with 3 longer allen head screws but they were too long so i had to use washers to make it work but now everything is peachy.

Bump

You can tell if you're leaking coolant into the cylinders by checking your coolant level and seeing if it has been dropping a little. Also if your exhaust is spewing out white smoke that smells sweet that's another indicator. But the best thing to do is pull the head off and take a peek for yourself and get that stud fixed ASAP.

ATF Type-F. I get the Walmart brand at $2.67 per quart and it makes my shee shift like a dream. Doesn't last very long though but at that price you're still saving money and getting the same if not better performance as the more expensive stuff like Klotz and Belray etc..

No, don't follow the arrows. Adjust it till you can feel the pushrod touching the ball slightly, then go 1/2 a turn more, then tighten the jamb nut. Also make sure while you're doing this the cable is all the way loose on the lever. The arrows might be accurate for a brand new cable but one that's been used and stretched out will be different than a brand new one. I have chain whack on my cases so there ain't any arrows so I looked at the Clymer's manual and found that procedure. Hope that helps!

If it were base or head gaskets it would be in your cylinders but it sounds like it could be leaking through whatever was used to bond the cases together. Might be time to split em, scrape the old stuff and put new sealer and slap em back together. Just make sure you let it cure for at least 24 hours so this doesn't happen again.

Bump!

Swap the blue powerband out for the yellow one Just kidding. Clean the carbs and check for anything clogging air/fuel passages! That happened to me when my spark arrester was clogged up it wouldn't get on the pipes and it pissed me off.

It's a good intake setup and flows well. The tubes leading to the carbs provide a less turbulent air intake and should give a little better throttle response but it won't give as much power as dual K&N pods straight on the carbs. If you're set on this 2:1 intake kit then I would say try to find a K&N that would fit onto the 2:1 tubes with an outerwear as opposed to using Toomey's foam filter. Just my opinion that foam filters aren't that great. Also you're going to need to figure out a way to support the setup because the weight of the filter on the tubes could eventually lead to cracking and an air leak!

Offer still stands! Let me know if you need better pics

also 13/41 gearing forgot to mention that.

I dunno my buddy got a trailtech with a speedometer on his trx450 and he tops out at 75.2mph in 5th pinned and i pass him by at least 5mph in 6th pinned on my shee that's got t5's pods and vf2 reeds. also .40 over if that even makes a difference.

On a 4 day trip to the dunes by the time I get the bike home and drain it it's black as night and stinks real bad so probably no longer than that (also I ride all day every day) so yeah it's just as safe. Just make sure you don't push it. I should even be changing it halfway through the trip considering it's only $5 to do it and I can get the stuff anywhere. I run the walmart brand at only $2.50 per quart so it doesn't really matter what you run it's all the same in the bottle the label's just a little different ya know?

x2 my atf-f turns black QUICK but it's just so cheap I can't resist. I can definitely feel it shifting worse by the end of the trip when I take it to the dunes for a few days.

I have a cascade clutch cover with one of their billet inserts.. would I literally just drill a hole in the case big enough to adjust the pancake bearing and make sure the o-ring seals well on the billet insert?

I would like to see a pic of someone who has done this! I have a Cascade billet insert on my clutch case with an o-ring on the outside so it SHOULD seal well with a hole drilled.. But I want to see others who have done this first. It is absolutely rediculous to have to drain the oil and pull the clutch case off whenever i need to adjust it even the slightest bit..