White97Banshee

Definitely too lean. I run 330's with my stock carbs, T5's, VF2 reeds and k&n pods with no porting. You should be using at least a 330 if not higher.

Nevermind sorry I can't afford em now

Is there anything else wrong with em other than the big dent and a few dings here and there? Would you take $200? I live in Lynnwood, WA and can pick them up locally.

Hey everyone, So I got a new clutch pack and springs etc... and when I installed all the plates and put the pressure plate over it all and springs in etc.. it seems that the plates have a lot of play.. It seems like the pressure plate should be touching the fiber plate, is that the case? Or should the inner hub still be allowed to spin freely and the pressure plate not touching the fiber plate? Also the push rod adjuster threads stripped out so i ordered a new pancake bearing adjuster from cascade which comes with an allen head (thank god) not a phillips screw. Does this just install the same way as the OEM push rod adjuster? Thanks in advance, and what would be even better would be pics of your guys' clutch packs installed correctly with the pressure plate in place etc..

I'm not sure about for the Banshee but my little brother runs their 240 kit on his Blaster and it made it wicked fast for a Blaster. You can really feel the mid-top end pull with that and the Vito's Fat Bastard pipe and a 35mm PWK air stryker. I will be getting these cylinders for my Shee eventually and yes if you get these and send them out for additional porting you can get even more power out of them.

Thanks guys I'll get those all ordered next time I get paid and put her together the right way. I appreciate all the help!

Thanks guys but I just found the circlip at True Value, a 9/16" external retainer ring. After I put that on there's no play in the idler gear, it's solid. I bought my bike from the biggest lying doucher I've ever meet and have been finding all sorts of "buried treasure" ever since.. But since there's no play and it's all snug what else could it be?

I've spent the last couple days tinkering on the shee putting a new clutch pack in, and a modded shift star, and I noticed when I took the clutch basket out to get to the star there was no circlip holding the idler gear in place! I'm assuming that since I couldn't find one laying around in the case anywhere that it never had one since I bought it and so I figured I shouldn't test my luck and get a new one. Problem is, everybody wants 8-10 bucks shipping for a $1 circlip so i wanna get one from a hardware store. What size circlip does it take? I've tried 1/2" - too small, and 5/8" - too big. Thanks!

The last time I put new rings on my Shee it took me like 45 minutes for both of em including the time spent draining coolant and all that. It's super easy. For the cylinder base nuts I like to have a 6 point box wrench so it doesn't strip the nuts and they come off super fast.

It sounds like it's probably fine then if it starts that quick cold it must have plenty of compression. Mine starts within the first 5 or so cold and I just put fresh rings in like a few months ago.

I had the same problem on my 'Shee turned out when I bought it the right side intake boot was ripped from the stupid boost bottle the guy had plugged in there. An intake leak is the most likely thing so like stated above check all the intake boots gaskets etc.. I bet that's what it is.

Alright cool I'll experiment both ways and see what I like best, thanks guys! I got the old clutch taken apart right now but I can't put the new one on till tomorrow cuz I gotta go to a dealer and pick up a clutch hub holding tool so I can take the hub off to install my new modded shift star. Can't wait to get it all back together!

If you're referring to the size of the rings, you have to take the piston and either read the top of it if it's Wiseco it will say like "006450" or something which means 64.5mm bore so you would get rings for that size piston. If it doesn't say or if it has too much carbon on top then you would take the piston to a machine shop that does boring/honing and they will measure it for you. And as for doing a compression test, I don't get fancy with it, I just give it a good hard kick and judge by how much it resists, but to do a real test you buy a compression tester from an auto part store and you screw it into your head where the spark plugs go and kick it until it doesn't read any higher.

I just replace my rings once every season just to stay safe but that's not necessary. You can always run a compression check and see for sure if it's needed but for the most part if you break it in right and the ports are chamfered then the rings will last almost as long as the current bore they're on. New rings for mine are like 80 bucks and the only place I can find em is Vito's and I don't know what you mean by an engine savant but you can do that all yourself in under an hour.

Would it be hard on the clutch cable to use all 6? If not I think I'll just toss em all in..

Well welcome to the HQ! I run the stock plugs on my 'Shee they're B8ES and I run whatever coolant is cheapest at the local auto parts store by my house, I've run a few different types of coolant and none of them seemed to run cooler than the other. The only difference is how quickly the heat is transfered, not the temperature itself. And it isn't even a noticeable difference from what I could tell.

I just got a new heavy duty clutch kit from cascade and i've heard that with those kits i'm supposed to keep 3 of the factory springs and do every other one with the heavy duty springs it came with, is that true? or do I just put all 6 of the HD springs in?

Maybe I'll have to just bite it and get a new chain as well. How many links should I get for a 13/41 setup or just stock length in general? And I don't really know much about chains other than there's o-ring and non o-ring, and x-ring chains? What's a good one for dune riding?

Got a new Primary Drive 41t rear sprocket coming from RMATV. Thanks guys for all your help!

Think I can get away with just a sprocket? Can't exactly afford the chain as well for a while. If it breaks on me I have a billet case saver.

So I took a picture of my back sprocket just to show you guys and see if you think I need a new one, and sorry it's a crappy phone picture but i think it works enough to tell

I've tried it with 2 different types of paddles and the sand was nice and powdery soft, but I know what you mean when I ride on the beach it sounds loud as hell on the wet sand Doesn't happen on hard launches but I think I'll pick up a new sprocket cuz I can't afford a new chain right now but the chain I have was new when I bought the bike so I think it should be okay. Thanks for all of your help guys! I was getting really irritated that I couldn't figure out what was making that knock!

No it only happens when I'm on the pipes coming out of steep treeshots. Not when I'm doing any wide open hillclimbs or drag racing across the flats or anything. I believe it's an o-ring chain. If I get a new back sprocket do I also have to get a new chain with it?

It had stock timing when I got it and it still did that, I did the timing mod only a couple months ago How can I tell if the sprocket is too worn out? Is it just that the teeth are a little rounded or very rounded? Thanks for all the help guys!

My chain seems to be pretty tight especially with my body weight on it but I was thinking the same and I'll try tightening it for my next trip. It's a new front sprocket and the rear is still in good shape. I don't have a cool head so I don't think I'll try mixing race gas as I have stock compression. But I'll check both sprockets and see what's up. Thanks!