I melted a piston and it trashed one of my outside bearings on my crank. Is the bearing pressed on or is it something I can pry off and replace myself?
Just to add to this, about 10 - 15 minutes before she died, I took a corner too fast and wrecked the bike. It threw me off and just rolled up on it side bending the handle bars. I wonder if the float got stuck when that happened and caused this. She's been running great before this. Is 10 - 15 minutes enough time to cause this?
I bought it used, it's a 2006 and it had low compression so I had it bored, new pistons, the whole nine yards. When I first popped the head before the rebuild, the right cylinder head was peppered bad and could tell the owner had put new pistons in but didn’t have it bored.
1. What do I look for when I rebuild it so it doesn’t happen again?
2. Should I pull the motor and make sure everything is clean in the bottom end?
Thanks guys.
Guys....help!!! Fresh top end, just cleaned carbs, 280 jets, Toomey T5's, billet impeller, Fluidyne radiator, everything else is stock. I'm sure it got hot but why? Going to rebuild but don't want it to happen again.
Was riding this past weekend and all of sudden, was only firing on one cylinder. I changed the plugs and swapped the plug wires and still only have exhaust coming out of the right side. I just rebuilt the top end. Does this mean the crank is shot? I'm going to pull the head and jugs this week. Just wanted an idea of what to expect.
Clymer's says you should remove the top end before pulling the motor. It would be much easy to remove the top end with the motor out so what does everyone do? Pull the motor with the top end on or off or can you not get the motor out with the top end on?
These are the hangers I bought...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-BILLET-ATV-FRONT-EXHAUST-HANGERS-TOOMEY-SMOOTH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem53dcf628c2QQitemZ360189405378QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
The bolt that keeps backing out is the one that goes into the frame. There is no nut that goes into back.
So I have the billet exhaust hangers installed but was wondering which side the rubber spacer goes on. I would think in between the spacer and the back side of the hanger. Also, both of my bolts have wiggled out so how tight do I make them? I guess I should use some thread lock.
If you're going to do what papa_smurf suggest, I have that setup brand new. I installed it but never ran it because I got a foam filter with my pipes. Below is a link to what I bought. I'll let it go for $75 shipped USPS.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-Air-Filter-Intake-Kit-Yamaha-YFZ350-Banshee-87-06_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem518ca57179QQitemZ350252003705QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
So I just verified it's the stinger tube. I had an older one and with it, everything lines up like it should. Now I've got a thin spot on my pipe from it rubbing against the head! I'm calling Toomey on Tuesday. The stinger tube isn’t bent right compared to the old one I have.
I have the complete Toomey package with their T5's, 2:1 High Flow Filter System, and outerwear. The left stinger tube touches my outerwear and has melted it. It's also right up against my throttle cable as it comes out of the carb cap (TORS removed). I remember when I installed that side, it didn’t feel right. I had a hard time getting the stinger tube into the pipe. Can someone check their Toomey's and see if it's that close to their carb cap? Could I have a bad bend on the pipe or stinger tube? When I unbolt the silencers, it is definitely in a bind and I have to force it onto the bolt on the rear by twisting it.
This is my setup...06 Banshee - Toomey T5's - 280 jets - cool head 21 cc domes.
If I advance my timing +4, will I have to worry about making any other adjustments?