Driggs

Good point but I don't mind paying because I enjoy doing the work myself.

Hahahahahaha....I had to watch the whole thing even though it's wicked bad.

Check out this slick tool...I might just order it. They have a YouTube video and it's a piece of cake with this thing. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&keyword=TUSK+CRANKSHAFT+BEARING&prodFamilyId=19017

It's just the two outside bearings I'm wanting replaced so I'll look for another puller and if no luck, to the machine shop I go.

Ok guys, just now going to replace these things. I just bought a 3 jaw puller but that wouldn't work. What's recommended to pull these bearings off? Also, 200+ degrees and they'll just slide on?

This quote under the video makes you think...."why did they cut off at 4:20 and showed the "clean" cloth afterwards? they didnt cut off from the other filters so why from the true flow filters?"

You're officially a douchebag!

I didn’t reuse the orange gasket and I know of others that didn't as well. I think you'll be ok not running it. My instructions said nothing about reusing it.

I leave everything on mine (except the plugs so I don't break them off if I hit them on the frame) including the top end when I take mine out. It's not that heavy. I like removing everything with it on the work bench then put it all back together and bolt it in. I think the Clymers says left side. Don't think it matters.

Thanks for the pics guys. I'm going to figure something out when it gets here. I'm sure I can make something work.

I'm going to order a Vapor tonight but I don't want to pay the 90 bones for the mounting bracket. I searched and found a lot of custom made brackets for aftermarket bars but what about stock handlebars. Any suggestions or should I just pony up???

It could allow sand/dirt to get sucked in because it's only going to get bigger.

pm sent

pm sent

Jets as in carb jets?

x3 on save your money and stay away from the boost bottle.

I'm just nervous that the screwdriver will slip and break my fuel valve needle. I can see how that would be faster cause it doesn’t take much adjusting to get it right and I always have to readjust several times.

20 - 22 mm Hold the carb so that the float arm just contacts the fuel valve needle without compressing the needle. Measure the distance from the float bowl mating surface (without the gasket) to the top of the float. To adjust if needed, remove the float pivot pin and remove the float and fuel valve assembly. Remove the fuel valve from the float. Adjust the float by bending the adjust tang on the float with a screwdriver. In other words, get a Clymers.

Where's the "toomey silencers"???

hahahahahaha...$350 11 year old stock pipes.

If you part it out, let me know on the crank and the shift star, drum mods.

Anybody have luck with this? I don't have any spam filtering so it can't be that....plus, it use to work and then stopped.

Dude, I'm such a douche. What a simple fix. Never crossed my mind to replace the bearing. I'll take you up on the bearing. I don't see why it wouldnt work. I'll PM you. BTW...I have to give props to you...thats the hottest damn picture...would love a full size of that pic...and I'm not talking about your banshee.

Pull that carb off and check your float height. Could be a quick fix. I wouldn’t think it would hurt as long as it's not flooding out.