Driggs

ODI all the way

Ditch it. They're useless. Just run your overflow hose down your frame so you can see if it ever starts boiling over.

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That brought tears to my eyes....already having to put her away!!!

Want to stay on pump gas. I mostly ride in FL so I'm just above sea level. Here's my setup: Stock Stroke Woods Port T5's I know 21 is ok but what about 20? Forgot to mention I'm running at +4 on my timing.

I think I'm going to find a way to verify my Trail Tech is right cause those temps are with me just cruising thru some trails rarely getting on the powerband.

Just completed my rebuild, woods port plus the usual mods...t5's, pods, 330 mains, milled head, VF3's...and also installed a trail tech. After your everyday riding in hot ass Florida over the weekend, it's showing I'm hitting 225 - 235 degrees on the fluid temp. From what I've seen, 210ish is meltdown but I'm not overheating I don’t think. I'm running Engine Ice and a Fluidyne rad and that huge ass impeller from Chariot so that temp surprises me. I'm not boiling over out my overflow so am I ok? It runs amazing even at those temps.

Check compression. When I bought mine, the only way to get it to fire up was pull it. I needed a new top end.

Sweet. Thanks guys.

Just installed my lock up and the rear brake lever hits the bottom of the cover. Is this normal and do you guys bend it out?

Thanks guys. That makes sense.

Where is everyone installing the sensor? On the hose that connects to the front of the head?

Are you running gaskets on both sides of the reed?

So you don't run any paper gasket? Just the silicone?

I can't get my VF3's to seal. I'm loosing lots of air on my leak down test. I had the VF3 gasket, then put a stock gasket on the other side and it helped but still leaking. I saw where someone said to run 4 gaskets. What's up with that and will that stop the leak and if not, what do you suggest? Also, it doesn’t look like the stock gaskets fit the VF3's intake manifold side so is that a special order?

So I took the air grinder to it today and shaped up the lockout. Piece of cake with the air grinder. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

Standard. Use an impact wrench.

What "MAJOR" issue?

I'm running the complete Wiseco clutch setup..pressure plate, basket, and inner hub. This is what DD replied back with "it looks like the holes in that pressure plate are to small of diameter- when we designed the lockouts, they are made to work with the factory plates- why they made it so small- not really sure , guys have ran other pressure plates with the lockouts and have not had an issue." I'd like to stick with the wiseco pressure plate but looks like it'll be easier to go back to the stock pressure plate.

That's what I'm going to do. I want to run the Wiseco pressure plate since I just bought it so I'll get the grinder out.

Great. That's not what I wanted to hear. I emailed Direct Drive and I'll see what they say. Thanks Windy.

I'm trying to install my Direct Drive Lockout with a Wiseco Pressure Plate but as you can see from the pics, it's not fitting like it did on the stock pressure plate. It's mushrooming the lockout. Any ideas?

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That is the cleanest Banshee I've ever seen. I tried everything to get my cases to look that good and got no where near that.

This site ROCKS!!! My banshee is like my second child. They both cost me about the same.