gotta_goatsfast

Is this the motor you build when your banshee is required to pull trailers and race all in the same day?

...you can hone nikasil...

If I understand you right, you'll add 6" of leverage to the torque wrench. So, simple math explains that if you have a torque wrench that measures 18" from handle to center of socket and you want to exert 20 ft/lbs of force onto that socket, you will need to apply 13.3 pounds of force to the handle. Now, when you add 6", the torque wrench will read false to what the true torque value is, because you are no longer reading the pivot point (or center). So, when the torque wrench reads 20 ft/lbs, you actually applied 26.6 ft/lbs to the nut. Now, if I'm reading this correctly, you say to add 2 additional ft/lbs. So, you would actually be applying 29.3 ft/lbs to the nut. If I misread you then my bad, but it'll still affect the OP. Now, my torque wrench measures 20.5" from center of nut to center of handle. I use a piece I made by cutting a 10mm box end wrench and welding an old 1/2" drive socket to it. From the center of the box wrench to the center of the socket drive is 2". When I apply 20 ft/lbs to the torque wrench, I exert 11.7 lbs on the handle. (20x12/20.5= 11.7) now I add 2" to the distance between center of my handle to center of nut. So, how much pressure will I apply to the handle? Roughly 10.7 lbs (11.7x20.5/22.5= 10.66). How will I know when I've torqued it to said force? Well the torque wrench will need to read (or click at depending on your style) 18.3 ft/lbs (10.7/12x20.5= 18.279). Its always best to use a lubricant on clean threads to get a proper reading, also. ARP has awesome stuff, but for most guys any white oil or motor oil will get you close enough. EDIT: I should add that I used a 10mm box wrench because I use ARP 12 point nuts on my 421 serval. You will use a 12mm if its a regular 8mm nut.

The banshee video got moved to the "VIDEO" section... You had it in "GENERAL BANSHEE DISCUSION". Since it's a video, it should be posted in the video forums.

That's no fun...

Ladies and gentlemen, Since I live in Southern Wisconsin, I find myself smack in the middle of the Packers/Bears rivalry. For those who watch football, I'm sure this will be a hair raising edge-of-the-seat battle that will leave one team on their way to the superbowl... I'm a Packers fan, but I would be happy for either team as they both fought hard playing "underdog" most the season. So, will the team Lovie built specifically to stomp on Packers prevail? Can the monster wall of the Bears Defense stop Rodgers? Will the Pack put the pressure on an easy-to-overwhelm Cutler? Can Rodger's athletic quarterback style stay a step ahead of Chicago's defense? Lets hear it!

I enjoyed it

I run 10"s on the front with a 21" tire

I prefer a 9 inch wheel. I have 10 wheels on my quad now with 20" Holeshot HDs and both rims are bent up to shit. I'll be going back to a 9" wheel when I replace these.

I am sure you won't see any performance out of it. You will however see a lot more people annoyed by your bike and possibly a noise related warning/ticket. The SSTs aren't much of a drag pipe anyway. They have a stronger mid-hit than the the gold series but fall off slightly sooner.

I believe he said he does NOT want to cut them. Unfortunatly, I have no advice for you as I've always cut the old nets off.

I bet the 2 into 1 pipe would fail miserably on a serval.

Save your money and just purchase a TORS elimination kit.

How can one be expected to advise a "good" carburetor with absolutely no information about the engine and riding style?

Do you find yourself running in 6th gear a lot?

yes

I'll never use ATF again. Last year I threw in a new clutch and tried out the ATF. At the end of a hard 9 hour ride the fluid reeked from being burnt. The clutch wouldn't hold until I replaced the fluid.

Check out farmandsandtoys.com and you can pick up a real nice set of frictions, steels, and HD springs for a VERY fair price. It'll handle your 4mil no problem.

I personally ran a single carb setup and did not like it. To me, smaller dual carbs feel just as torquey down low while pulling harder in the upper end of the spectrum. But, if you're curious to try it I believe Chariot machines a 2-into-1 manifold which is a lot cheaper than Trinity's rip off.

Unfortunatly $100 isn't going to get you much of anything. Keep saving up, and frequent the for sale section on here. If you're patient, you'll find a set of quality used shocks. I run PEPs triple rates with rezzies on a +2+1 arm and it really makes jumps smooth. Its like riding a marshmellow! Be careful of E-bay auctions. I've heard reports of "deals" ending up being junk shocks that end up costing more to fix than they're worth new. PS, boost bottles offer no performance increase and have been known to crack the intake manifold where they mount to. This causes an air leak which will lean out the AFR, which can destroy a motor pretty quickly. You may want to look into a stock crossover tube or at the very least inspect the rubber manifolds very often.

Yea, a drag port might be a little much for hills. I would start calling around to some of our sponsors and talk to them about YOUR needs and be honest with them. Once you've found a builder who you really feel comfortable with, send your parts out and let them work their magic!

Carbs are on the large side of the scale, but your quad will still run. I second a leak-down test. There's a thread pinned in the "Banshee repairs and mods" section that will walk you through it.

What makes you think the CPIs hit at 7K? They hit just about the same as T5s (5.5K-6K). The advantage to CPIs is that they provide more overrev than the Toomeys. I usually see the Toomeys start to sign off around 9.5K. If he follows through and does decide to build a 4mil, the CPIs will shine in every aspect over the toomeys.