gotta_goatsfast

Once I went wider on my suspension the fenders didn't really do much to protect me anyway. I cut my fenders with a new razor blade and used a hair dryer to warm/soften the area to be cut. The razor makes a clean edge. Then, I used a torch to quickly go over and melt the sharp edges (without burning it) and it looks factory.

The spark plug issue was the 2v 4.6 and 5.4 engines. The 3v 5.4 in the 04+ Fords are damn near bullet proof. 90% of the torque on them engines is made just after 1000rpm. Its a hell of a smooth V8.

Yep, Calvin from CP industries makes them (same company that makes the cheetah cubs, cheetahs, cheetah DMs and Cheetah DMX...) I purchased mine from FAST but you can also pick it up through Andy from M&Matv.

You're thinking of the wampus cylinders. My serval looks like a 68X58 cub with a milder exhaust port timing. Later on if I want, it can be ported exactly like a cub cylinder. I've seen dynos showing 80-85hp on pump fuel with a sweet RIDABLE powerband. Not a peaky "drag" attitude like the cubs.

RICKY STATOR PRODUCTS ARE KNOWN FOR BEING JUNK. THE FACTORY ONES ARE BEST. I HAVE ALSO USED MOOSE BRAND STATORS WITH NO TROUBLE. MY ADVICE IS TO POST A WANTED AD IN THE WANTED SECTION AND TO PRESS THE "CAPS LOCK" BUTTON ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF YOUR KEYBOARD. See, it works. I just did it.

Not sure how well that motor would make for a cross country type of bike. The large bore will mean less room for coolant to flow. Besides, without a long swinger you're going to be on your back lol.

haha, 8 pages of bitching (and a little bit of trolling). I think we should get these two together into a ring with a pair of boxing gloves. It'll be a good night's entertainment.

Checking for squish clearance involves measuring the distance between piston at TDC and the dome, I'd say changing a dome should warrant a quick squish band test.

Yes. Basically you will throw two plugs and a wrench in your pocket. Hop on your quad and warm it up. Then, line up on a good straight away. Pull the old plugs and thread in the brand new plugs. Kick it over and as fast as you can, get wide open. Try to find an area that will at least allow you to top out in 5th. At the same time, you're going to pull in the clutch, kill the engine, and cut the throttle. Pull the plugs and swap back to the old ones so you can ride back. Then analize the new plugs. First, you're going to look at the plug's ground strap. The color change from heat should transition around the middle of the "bend". If it transitions after the bend your plug is too hot. If its before the bend you've got a plug that is too cold. Then, examine the plug for aluminum specs. This could be a sign of detonation beating on the piston and the head. Now, cut the threads off of the plug to expose the insulator underneath. At the base, you'll see a smoke ring. Idealy you want a smoke ring 2mm thick in the color of chocolate milk. Thicker or dark ring indicates a rich mixture. Opposite is true for a lean mixture. Another pinned topic you should read... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23546 By the way, there are probably 100 topics reguarding plug chops and jetting stock carbs.

You'll feel better once you talk to Matt!

1. Will they remain clear or turn yellow over time? 2. Will they dry or crack at all? 3. Will the plastic flex enough by the o-ring to leak fuel over time? It would make a great tool to precisely calibrate your float level though. But I see its for the 28pwk. Do they have them for a 35pwk?

My PEPs are 14.75"

There is a sequence. On the upper case you will see a number next to each bolt. Tighten according to numerical order. On the bottom, there are 8 nuts. If I remember the sequence, you'll start with the nut left from center toward the front of the engine. Next is right of center toward back. Then left of center toward back. Right of center toward front. Far left front. Far left rear. Far right front. Far right rear. The book has a LOT of tips and tricks that you may have already missed.

What do the Elkas measure out from eye-to-eye?

I STRONGLY suggest you hit up MattSCESC to have your Elkas rebuilt. IMO YFZ shocks on a banshee look to be more of a headache. Especially when you have some Elkas. Matt can rebuild them for your weight and your riding style. It'll be like riding a marshmellow.

Just my personal experience, but I've swapped from a trinity single carb to small twins and my throttle response was crisp down low and pulled a hell of a lot harder on top. Anyway, I found a part number for you. This is for a 36-38mm carb. It mounds by 2 8mm bolts. The bolt holes are 75mm center to center. I don't know how this fits in relation to your manifold. I-VM38/200-1

First.... why? Second, if you're using a 440 intake then you can either pick up a rubber flange for it or you can check out the assortment of flanges Mikuni makes.

I don't get it. You get a banshee (which is known to be a top end screamer). Then you choke it down so that the powerband is smooth. Thats like buying a corvette and putting on a single 2" exhaust. lol. Just buy a 4 stroke if you want low end power and a smooth delivery.

I pack the lip with waterproof grease.

Thats blan B! lol, 4mil serval to be exact. I would like to beat them at their own game and still in a straight line.

Save some money and pick up a TORS elimination kit. Bigger carbs won't gain you any bottom end power. Are you confident your jetting is spot on?

I went with stock length also for my 421 serval. I'm hoping to get away with it because I do not want to negatively effect my "air time" with a longer swing arm. Plus, the round house style carrier makes life easy. You won't be dissapointed. The bike looks cleaner from the back, too.

Dude, its gotta be more than 12.5 pounds. lol. I've got a stock swingarm I'll weigh tomorrow if no one else posts up. I know its about twice as heavy as my ACE fabrication swinger.

I've seen some of them motors run around 55-60hp. Your motor might have closer to 60-65 if its tuned right. But, like stated before, you need a good launch. His broad powerband and better torque curve means his bike is more forgiving of "rider error". Try it though. Its just a race.

You definately need to post up progress and pics/dyno stuff. It'll be interesting to see this. With a 58mm stroke and big intakes you should be able to get that to spin REAL fast. Its unfortunate when some people post up a new idea that requires a lot of R&D and then quit on it or the thread sort of fades into the background. But it seems like you and your crew have most of the hard stuff figured out. PS, if its not top secret I'd like to see what you guys do to the tranfers while the sleeve is out! Not that I'll ever port a stock cylinder to that extent-lol-but I'm just interested in what/how you guys go about it.