bonerific250

I live just south of flint in the fenton area. Unplug the tors box. the little black box on the left side of the in front of the gas tank. then make sure your parking brake perch is adjusted tight then ride it too see if it still brakes-up. As far as what mod to do next it depends on your budget, if your going to change your impeller then you might as well change out the drive gear also, better safe than sorry, thats just my thought, but you will have to still live with that peace of shit tors system. Or just do both at the same time it will cost you no more than 200.00 bucks.

comp is going to depend on how much you are going to shave it, the most you can go with shaving a stock head is .025 also if your comp is 150psi or higher you will need to run race gas. I would do a squish band test first to get a better idea of how much you can even take off.

I live here in michigan also, I would go to a 27.5 pilot 1 1/5 turns out.

he means your probably running the wrong fuel. whats your comp? and what octane fuel are you running?

make sure your carbs are both in sync. also check your pilot jets, it don't take much to plug one up,also how does it start when motor is cold hard or easy?

i would get rid of the boost bottle that is a common problem when using a boost bottle, their is little to no performance differeance when using a boost bottle or using the stock balance pipe.

how high would comp. have to be to run race gas or a mix of them both?

i guess I left out a few things, pod filters temp. is kinda cool 50-60 will ride when it gets warmer 70 + degrees.thanks.

forgot to mention fmf gnarly pipes and silencers.

Getting ready to put my motor back together and I was just wondering what my jetting should be and what octane to run. motor bored .020 over stock with wiseco prolite pistons, dual stage boysen reeds, stock head shaved .010, stage 3 dynojet, elevation around 900' in michigan. tryed jetting forum awhile ago with no help. Right now I have stock pilots, 2 turns out on mixture screw I think can't remember, and 340 mains. Any help would be great, Thanks.

Had the same problem, tuned out the connections to the cdi were getting wet, put die electric grease in them never had the problem again.

Sounds like a good idea, but I would make sure the person doing it knows what their doing, Tempering does a couple of things it hardens, strengthens, but at the same time it makes the steel softer. Heating the steel and holding it below its AC-3 line ( the temp. @ which steel hardens) for certain amount of time around 212 degrees for 1 hour per inch of thickness then let air cool. I would do it bulletproof rods.

Sorry guys did'nt mean to stir a hornets nest here, just wanted to know if it could be done with so little work, I did'nt think it could be. At least we can all agree the he is full of shit.

just wondering what the fastest shee anyone has seen, And what i mean by that is banshee motors only, Trinity, alky, stroker, etc. no sled motors, bike motors. I ask this because some idiot at work said the could 120mph out of a stock shee just by changing pistons with stock bore, and changing carbs, no other mods. just looking for some feedback I think he's full of shit on that.

sound like you might have the float bowls switched.the bowl with the jet and brass tube in it goes on the left side.

2 strokes do not need to be timed. sounds like it might be a stator or coil issue. did you do anything with the carbs when you did the rebuild?

A buddy of mine just bought a shee and it does not have vin# on frame, not a hot or modified frame. the guy said the frame had been sandblasted and the vin# came off, hard to believe that, everything has been repainted but the plastic looks like it was purple and the frame was yellow,pretty sure these were stock colors at one time, another reason I don't believe the sandblasting story. So I'm just wondering if anyone could tell me the year of this bike, I know the motor vin# but whos to say that this is the original motor. thanks.

pretty sure that it is made out of cast iron and you cannot tig weld it,might be able to braze it but you have to be careful when you it because takes alot of pre - heat in order to be able to move the brazing puddle around and then it should be cooled off in sand over a period of time. more of a pain in the ass. you could try gouging the groove out a lil with a dremel and filling it in with JB weld then fileing it flat. loctite also makes filler that withstands chemicals, fuels, etc.www.loctiteproducts.com

1/4" I.D fuel line. And as far as the routing of the fuel line, it should be routed as straight as possiable. you can buy fuel line by the foot at any auto parts store. might try putting the filter closer to the petcock for better routing of fuel line.being sure it does not rest on exhaust.

how much throttle are you giving it when it starts to stumble? less than 1/4 it might be your pilot won't take much to plug one up, did you try adjusting the mixture screw 2-1/2 turns out from "lightly" seated do this to both carbs, also might want to check your carbs are in sync.make sure your choke tube is on the between the 2 carbs.

I've heard that "M.S.D Ignition" makes a system for the banshee not sure on that.

I run (bellray gearsaver) oil with no problems.The next thing you want to do is go and buy yourself a Clymers manual best 30 bucks you'll spend. And how low was the oil when you added more? it might be possiable that the friction plates were not getting enough oil causing them to run dry, (wet clutch) or poor oil vescosity. check you friction plates, clutch springs are not broke, warped plates. But I would for sure change your oil bellray, oa even ATF some people on here run with it with no problems. you can run with 10w-30 motor oil. Good luck and welcome to the site.

I would do a compression check, if your sure that it is white smoke and not thick blue smoke you could have a bad head gasket. I would test it just make sure.

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html maybe this will help.

I was just wondering if anyone has taken the mounting bracket off the front brake caliper and if so how do you do this? it seems like the caliper and bracket are ment to never come appart. Thanks