bonerific250

Thats stock jetting. I would have to say your on the lean side for sure for the mods you have. you should be good with pilot but I would go up to a 270-280 main. Do some plug chops and up or down on the mains from there.

With the mods you have you will be good with just running on 93 pump gas. Running stright race gas could lead to detto and a rebuild. you could do a mix but even at that you will notice little if any difference. But just for shits, whats your compression and dome size?

To give you a better starting point on your jetting, post your elevation and temp and you never said if its stock bore, need to this. As far as price, K&Ns are pretty much the same no matter where you get them.pod filters will give you the power gains, but do a little shopping some places will throw in outwears,and there is a post on this site that will give you step by step on how to mod your current stator for +4 timmimg.

Thanks guys.pretty much looks like you get what you pay for. The boss looks like good in quality and price, think i'll go with that. thanks again.

Has anyone on here bought a cheap oversized radiator.$90.00-$130.00 off ebay? If so how have they held up?or is it just worth spending the cash on a good one.

Whats your elevation,what size pilots, whats the temp, have you checked for air leaks, bad o-rings on the domes,did you do a carb sync????????????

You should be alright wires.charging is around 13.5-14.0 volts. I would run an inline fuse with it depending on wire size. I'm sure someone on here that has done this will give more and better info.

I believe 8mm will fit with some forcing, but 7mm will work . why do you want to replace the wires???

no. he's saying try a wider clamp on the filter. you also might want to try and scuff up the outside of the carbs with a light grit sandpaper to the filters a little more bite. I also run pods and never had 1 fall off.

Thanks for the feedback, I will let him know. Thanks again.

Has anyone in here ran a namura piston? if so how did they hold up? I'm rebuilding a 400ex motor and the owner wants to try one out. I perfer to run wiseco but the cost of the namura piston fits his budget a little better. Thanks.

When you put your idle screws in did you file the casting down on the carbs so that screws are able to move the slides up and down so you can adjust the idle?

thanks, she is booonerific.

their are 2 vent lines coming off the case 1-is at the back of the motor on top of the case, and trhe other is on top of the clutch cover right hand side of the motor. they are joined together by a "t" then routed up to the steering stem. i would those hoses off and see if can blow through them. double check your case oil and make sure its not over filled. 2 quarts MAX.

The bowl with the brass ball in it is the choke jet. when you pull out on the choke plunger it crates vaccum and pulls gas up and threw carbs by-passing the pilot and main jets. the ball for me anyway, is just a quicker reference to what bowl went where.if you take the bowls back off and look inside both you will see a small jet. who wants to strain their eyes. Glad I could help.

what kind of gauge are you using? does it have a check valve in the end of it? and you want to make sure that the reach "threading" of the the gauge is the same length as the spark plug. And are you checking the comprehsion with the engine hot or cold? you want to check it went the engine is warm the pistons will expand a little.

Have you checked the clearance between the pick-up coil and flywheel should be .020 might be wrong on that its been awhile, I would test stator, ingnition coil, might be your c.d.i going bad. It would be a good idea to double check your stator timing.

another common problem is the float bowls being switched to a different carb, make sure the bowl with the brass ball on the front is on the left carb. i've had this problem it was a bitch to start and to keep it running.

I know you said you checked your ground but how did you test them? I would unplug all connections and using your meter set to ohms, test all black wires on the harness side to a known good ground on the frame (cdi or regulator ground).on the coil you want to test orange to plug cap for your secondary readings (4,700-7,100 ohms) its a little misleading but when you test the black lead on the coil to get your secondary readings your testing ground and it will read open sense plugs & caps are not grounded to the motor. I would also test all your switches, on-off key if you still have that, main switch, also do you have a manual ? if not put up a post on your ohm readings.

I would not kick it over anymore then you have to.You are wiping all the oil out. if you need to keep kicking over i would put a cap full of oil down each cylinder to help keep the piston and rings lubed. And did you test your ignition coil? as far as seeing the spark it should bright and noticeable even in sunlight

Did you cut and file the casting on the side of the carb where the idle screw goes? if not then the screw is not raising the slide up enough which will not allow it to idle.

Do you know if the carrier bearings have ever been serviced before? if not you might have a hard time getting axle out of the carrier I had that problem with mine, I left the carrier and axle on the bike and had to use a piece of steel pipe with a big enough i.d to get over the axle threads but a small enough o.d to be able to rest on the shoulder of the axle where the back hub stops on the axle and hammer away. You might also have a hard time getting the spacer off the axle. But bike was also neglected when I bought it. Even with it being a pain in the ass I was able to it with no special tools. I made sure I greased everything before it went back together so I don't have that problem again. Then tighten axle nuts to torque specs.

Right now I have 320 mains, 27.5 pilot with air screws 1 1/2 turns out. Mods are bored .020 with wiseco pro-lites, +4 timing, k&n pods, Boysen dual stage reeds, fmf gnarly pipes and silencers, stock head shaved .010, running 32:1 mix, temp. is between 70-90 degrees and elevation is around 900'. I did a plug chop and you could see the smoke ring but I think it is a little light in color (tan color but not that dark) and that was with air screws turned 2 1/5 out, I turned them back to 1 1/2 turns out, my question is would this be alright to run like this or should I go to 330 mains? motor temp. is around 160 degrees. Thanks for any help.

yep, unplug the box and like I said make sure your perch on the parking brake located on the clutch lever is tight. If this clears up your problem, if it does then I would suggest getting a tors eliminator kit to get rid of that headache.