bonerific250

I'm running wiseco pro-lite pistons and I have not had a problem with them just make sure you brake-in the engine right and take your cylinders to a good machine shop and you should be good.

It's going to depend alot on your mods and tire size.I run 15-frnt and 42- rear with 20-11-10 tires but I run flat and hills, you might want to try 14-frnt and 42-rear remember the lower tooth count no the frnt will give you more lowend and you dial it in more with the rear sprocket and tire size.

does anyone know where I can get a set of 156mm rear hubs for stock axle? thanks.used ones will work, as long as their in good shape.

what size are the stock spindles? 115mm or 156mm?

the purpose of the tors is all safety, if the throttle cable gets stuck or dirt in carb slides holding the carb or cable in the open throttle postion and you back off the throttle the tors will kick in and shut off the ignition system.You might want to check your parking brake and clutch adjustment perch make sure their tight "common problem with tors" also like i said in the other post you can unplug the box.little black box on the upper leftside of frame. But most people on here will agree just get rid of them. you will benefit by not having this type of problem any more.as far as your exhaust on packing will make them louder with no gains.

depends on what you mean "get rid of them", you can unplug the tors box which is located on the upper left side on the frame by gas tank,and still have all the shit on your carbs not to mention the wiring, Or get rid of it all together. Tors eliminator kit,and new throttle cable,a little time and no more headaches.

wiseco pro-lite pistons.

got my motor apart,and I noticed pistons move back and forth a little bit, this was a fresh rebuild this year. went .020 over on size, just wanted to know what the clearance between the piston and cylinder wall should be? thanks for the help.

make sure your carbs are in sync,float heights the same, idle screws are the same w/o tors switch,2 turns out on air screws,check compression,could also be right side crankshaft seal going bad. really need too know more about your mods if any.good idea to check your trans oil level.sounds more like carb problem though.

I'm going to agree with rascal, I use belray gear saver never had any problems,1 1/2 qts. is recommended but you can 2 qts. with no prob.

their are a number of different things that could be wrong, when you drained this oil did you notice any metal shavings in it (the will be gray in color that is normal) does it make the noise with engine at idle and not in gear? check end play of the clutch try to move it up,down side to side,check chain rollers & slide, is chain to tight,is chain oiled,if it does it at idle it could be your impeller,worse case it could be bad bearings or broken gear teeth.low gear oil could have been causing the noise.

so I've been done riding for the season and I want to repaint the frame and a-arms etc. And I was wondering what is the best way to do this? should I take the frame right down to bare metal the use epoxy primer then use a paint with hardners.Don't have the funds for powder coat,just looking for someone who painted their frame and has had no problems with paint chipping and good results.Any feedback would be great, don't want to paint again next year.Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this.

I've good and bad about vito's, but the last I heard was that wiesco was making their pistons for them, don't know if that is true or not.Might want to look around on here a little more if your sceptic about it.Not sure if I believe that myself.

use red loctite, it is for high vibration applications,but don't forget next time you take off the sprocket off you need to heat up bolt a little to get the to break free, also clean the threads before reinstalling.

when you pulled the carbs appart did you put the float bowls back on the right carbs? the float bowl with the long brass tube inside it goes on carb with the choke plunger.(left carb)

if it is white, i would do a leak down test, or just pull the head, double check coolant level see if it is low, and would also check the case oil to see if that is in normal range, I say that because sometimes the crank seal blows on the right side sucking in oil and burning it.

thanks for all the help guys,is their anything else I should do when tuning? currently .020 wiseco pistons, k&n pods, +4 timing, fmf gnarly pipes & scileners, stage 3 dyno jet kit,stock carbs and pilots 2 turns out 340 mains 800ft elev. I ask this because I have my head off now and both cylinders have a polished look to them with a little lite scratch, and I was told polish look is normal because of thrust and lite scratches might be cylinder wash from to much gas. Ran great before putting it for the winter.thanks again.

are blowing white smoke out of your exhaust?

thanks for the info.and I'm not sure on how to do a squish band test,I think clearance should be no more that .030 but again I'm not sure on this.and size dia. solder should I use? f*#k missed that link, thanks again.

I live in michigan and I'm thinking of getting my head milled .020 instead of buying a "coolhead".And I was wondering who knows of a good place right close to hear that would do it and do right.And what would I need to do after I get this done as far as tuning,and would a squish band test be a good idea also.Thanks any help would be great.

does anyone know what the exhaust temp. should be at on perfectly tuned motor?

Or does any one think this could be clyinder wash because of to much gas? stock carbs 320 mains, stock piolet jet 1 turn out, clip in middle groove, k&n pods, 880 elevation,michigan.thanks

no I did'nt do a compression test, and i don't remember what the bore size is suppose to be, I think stock size is 64mm but i'm not sure.pistons do have some play inside the clyinders but the guy that did them said that the wiseco pistons needed to go in a bore that is .001-.002 bigger than the piston itself,thats from his expierence with wiseco pistons. Thanks for the info.

Just to the head off pistons look good cylinders both still have cross hatches, the only thing is, is at the front of both their is a polished look with a little light scoring that you can feel with your finger nail if you drag it across it. The motor was rebuilt this summer.Their is no loss of power,no knocking is this somthin to worry about? and if it is could i just get away with a fresh honing and rings? motor is already .020 over. thanks.

good advice,Do you know if you need to shim the head after you get it milled? prolly a stupid question but i don't anyone that has done this.And would i need to do anything with the carb settings or octane?