FrankieSquid

You let it sit for about 5 to 10 minutes, enough for it to start to bubble because if you do it sooner nothing will happen. Its more effective when its bubbling. The thing is that the liquid creates heat and thats is what eats that coating off.

Damn dude it does look different but better too. Im diggin the Dual rates. I just grabbed me up some pro tapers, theyr awesome. Good Job

Well im finally able to show you guys what that drain cleaner does to them gold wheels found on banshees

I heard that too and my first attempt was me jacking my girls oven cleaner and trying it out. It worked really well for my RC parts but not my shee. I actually tried two different brands of oven cleaner, paint thinner, aircraft stripper and nothing worked except for that Draino on steroids.

I bought the billet chariot timing plate. Stay away from the cast aluminum they suck. The bolts strip out easily And the threading on em suck Gaurantee to strip out. Rule of thumb Buy Cheap Buy Twice. I recomend the chariot plate. It wakes up these engines by a lot, Theres a lot of horsepower in them waiting to be discovered.

Well 21cc is a measurment in cubic centimeters the lower the number as 21cc the higher the compression. For a motor with 21cc cool heads wont put out as much horsepower as a motor with 18cc, but a rule of thumb is when changing to a lower cc dome you might have to use a higher octane fuel depending how low you go in the cc ratio. Going lower on your domes will increase your compression thus giving you a stronger motor. Ive seen friends run 18cc dome with 91octain fuel but again every bike is somewhat different. You also have to look into the future as if you plan on adding more HP to your engine yes you will need your crank welded but if this is as far as your going then no. I would have it welded it if you have the cash, just my .02

im sure some of you can use this info. Well i ask this question a few days ago. Now i did some research and found out that the anodize coating has some sort of chemicle coating to keep the anodize dye on the wheel looking great. Well i tried all forms of paint stripper and didnt get any luck. I found this drain cleaner liquid at home depot. It contains Sodium hydroxide AKA LYE. Well its the only drain cleaner they sell there in a plastic bag to prevent spills (indicating how potent this shit is). First you have to wear Rubber gloves cause this shit burns like hell if you get it on your skin, i would know trust me. LOL. Now goggles is a must. Its pretty simple just pour on the rim let it sit, wait for it to bubble. Wait for about ten minutes then use a solvent resistent brush and start to brush the wheel untill all the coating is off then rinse with water. Then your ugly gold wheel will be ready to polish and look like new. I have pics of the process but im having trouble uploading em. Hopes this helps some one

Looks good bro the red N black go well together. Post up pics after the wheels are done.

Alright i have my shee with a red and black theme. Now my shee came with these ugly ass gold wheels im sure you all seen them. Well i was wondering what would be the best way to remove this finish?

As mention before Porting is always the best route to go. Im saving up to get a nice port job. With my shee i have hardly any mods, just pipes K&N filter timing plate and a really good tuned carb im able to walk all over the LTR 450 with a slip on K&N and a cherry bomb. Another inportant factor is having good agressive tires for them trails because if you get all that power and no traction to place it to the ground your shee will just sit there on full throttle and go no where. Good luck woth your build but porting is what you should look into bro.

Okay cool, thanks fellas for the feedback i appreciate it.

Im sorry but my clunker is the shit. I rather burn tons of fossil fuel on my 92 stroked stang than drive a prius.

I want to make sure if you have to rejett for a adjustable timing plate. How many sizes from the original jetting would be common? Im running 310 mains. THANKS!

When i removed my airfilter box i had took it all out leaving a side to where the resivoir mounts to. But i wen ahead and took the resivior tank out too. It will give you a much cleaner look on ur bike. The hose that goes to the resivoir from the radiator, cut that sucker off and run it straight down from the radiator so you can see if its over heating it will spew collant through there, its much better to see if shes getting hot. And the other hose to the resivoir is just a breather hose, toss that sucker out.

The barnett clutches are real good. I also heard and seen banshees with street bike clutches yamaha r6 clutches i think. Look into it bro they are they Shyt

I started to have the same problems. Ever since i took my airbox off water gets into my carbs i think causing it to die out like that. So what i do i just dont go into water anymore. Kinda sucks cause right now were having monsoon season.

Im runnin the full exhaust

I have a stock shee with FMF powercores and i run 32:1. I have no airbox at all with the unifilter for now. I do live in a hot ass climate 2500ft above sea level. Now i was wonderin since this bike originally was jetted for cali weather it has the 300mains. I put 330mains on it in fear it might be lean. With my circumstances what would you fellas recomend my jetting should be at.

dude you got to make sure your doing the compression test right. When you have the compression tester in keep kicking till the needle wont move anymore. I had to kick for a good moment for me to get a good honest reading. Theres a thread on here somewhere on the proper way to compression test ur shee. Good luck bro

It all depends on how you want them to look. I like mine still being flared up sso i started cutting them on the crease of the front fender and trimmed as i went. Be prepared for some flying plastic peices them suckers hurt. LOL.

Checkin the carbs to see if they are in synce might help. I would switch the plugs on the wires to see if it persist to the other cylinder. Also check your air screws on both carbs. hope this helps.

Hey bro, sucks to hear but honestly i would not sacrifice it by putting some sort of epoxy. Remember there is a shit load of vibrations due to a high revving two stroke and the last you need is for that crack to creep around your casing and start laying out your internals around the trails. Happen to me a while back on my blaster i had when i bottomed out and a crack appeared. They shouldnt charge too much to weld a bead and it's your best bet, just my .02 Good luck bro hope you get it fixed.

vids will be posted soon fellas. i broke my Digi cam wheeling the shee a few weeks back.

Hey fellas, a few days ago i posted a thread about how much i got my a$$ handed to me by a zuki 450r. Well im happy to say i took your guy's advice. I did some research and hit the ol Shee manual and rejetted my carbs (BIG DIFFERENCE). New K&N with outerwears, no airbox. New barnett clutch, lowered rear tire pressure. Well i finally spanked the zuki 450r by 1 and a half bike lengths. And a lightly modded yfz450 by half a bike very close race, Got me on take off and my top end creeped up on him. More mods are coming soon, but just wanna say thanks for the feedback fellas.

damn bro you ate that one hard. At least your good ride another day. Time to upgrade!