stroking

its been proven that running a tz with stock gears does NOT make the bearing go bad check the link in thread tz bearing has exploded with Straight CUTS and stock gears and being that you have ran yours for 2years with stock gears just further proves that !

where you located ?

that makes sense

does this work to ??...it does NOT say on the website

i was told about a year ago that blendzall would NOT mix with alky reason i never tried it this is what i had

we have to use starter fluid to get them started the first time also i test 3 other bikes and all of them had a higher temp on stator side,guess thats how they run

where do you get it ? anyone got a picture of the bottle ?

ive done races when it was MAYBE 45 degrees out,so 55 is nothing......alot of races do it around here come to think of it,ive seen more burn plug straps in the summers vs winter

120 sounds hot it was 55 degrees out when i did the runs

Whats a good temp for alky....1/8mile runs i thought around 98-100 degrees

got a cub that keeps running hotter on the left side temp is 94 on L and 79 on R after full throttle pass...checked with lasers gun shearers big bore 7mil cub alky 41pwks....tried different carbs and got the same reading compression 210psi on both sides i checked for leaks and found none...(crank-seal..intake-boots...base-gaskets).....except the oring around the pipes flange,but i doubt that would cause this problem also fuel pump line is tapped on right side (cooler side)

got a cub that keeps running hotter on the left side temp is 94 on L and 79 on R after full throttle pass...checked with lasers gun shearers big bore 7mil cub alky 41pwks....tried different carbs and got the same reading compression 210psi on both sides i checked for leaks and found none.....except the oring around the pipes flange,but i doubt that would cause this problem also fuel pump line is tapped on right side (cooler side)

i use 6.oz to a gallon

how do you know if you have too much oil mixed in your alky ? what would be the signs ??? bogging ? slower revs? etc ?????

yes they will,i have the same pipes....ran them on a big cheetah,and now i made them work on a 7mil cub....just had to put a sleeve on the cylinder flange to get a tight fit. works DAMN GOOD too!!!!

yes they will,i have the same pipes....ran them on a big cheetah,and now i made them work on a 7mil cub....just had to put a sleeve on the cylinder flange to get a tight fit. works DAMN GOOD too!!!!

i have a alot of them

Christmas special $130 shipped

$150 shipped 1.50 over brandnew kit.....suppose to add 5-8+hp text 843-303-0898 if interested

blaster piston and 795 works on 115 only . 513 for 110

115-slightly more tq on long rod and less side load...also slightly slower revs 110-alittle faster revs with alittle less out of the hole tq....and more side load on piston. 110 rod is more prone to break piston skirts when piston to wall clearance is to high

im just posting what i find when i open these engine or what others around my area that build these engines find i know i will not recommend a TZ bearing to anyone i build a engine for ... if its working for you good,but in these neck of the woods i'LL take ball bearings 2 was done buy me 3 was done by 3 different builders 1 was a engine bought off the net,already together maybe we all did something wrong

they where installed by different people!!!......one was K&T so i doubt the installation was or is the problem its not rocket science to install a crank in a banshee