stroking

here are some more pic....these are ready to run,just needs pistons i also have a stage 4 head that i;ll let you have for $60 more and it comes with two brandnew set of 20cc domes and two 22cc domes cut for a 4mil if you can please text me 843-303-0898 you'll get a faster response

nothing wrong with them,there drag ported for a stockstroke crank so they can not be used with a 4 mil...transfers 130.5* exhaust 198* with stock stroke crank bore is 66mm........$140 \text 843-303-0898

i have a fuel pump i want to trade for a pingel

all year cases are the same...you can use them

this thread was NOT meant to downgrade or insult TDR and there product its was only to help me understand why the crank shafts were setup the way they were,and insure that its was indeed safe to run.... maybe a apology is in order. maybe it should have been titled...(Should i get my money back)...

did not know it was like that,i got the motor and bike together and it was running,i just took it apart to check things and its a good thing i did.

its bigger than that and we run 1/8mile pavement i switched the carbs to kehin 38mm without the pump and needed a seat belt after that to stay on the bike im going to try the pump again when i put the motor back together,tore it down to check things out,and found a few problems...like a .022 squish for one theres going to be a mad HULK on the loose soon!!!

i got another set of carbs i will try without the pump connected

its almost 600cc so i think it is BIG I got the bike with all this already hooked up

I have a bike that i got thats got a fuel pump on it,it was ran on race fuel,but i switched it too alky and drilled the dump to 132/ main jet and now its spraying alky out the pipes..it wont even rev up becuase of all the alky pouring out the pipes..if i remove the pump will that solve the problem.....all other alky bikes i did,didnt have a pump oh and this is a BIG motor so im not sure if removing the pump would be safe. is there anything different that they do in the carbs when running a pump? seems like the pump is pumping to much fuel too fast....also have alky flowing through the pump line thats tapped into the cylinder

i got another one from wicked and it also is not alien,and he did explain to me why they are like that,has to do with the balance of the crank and the LAST TDR crank i got is true too .001,the webs was what had me worried...but now i know why they are like that. and after seeing 3 vito 10mils cranks separate in less than a year,i was just being careful.

i paid shipping every time,and the owner had this last crank and cases (nextday$$$$) shipped back to me!....and its got to go back again..more money on shipping.

whats the angle for ? the smaller one i have here does not have angle to it

anyone know if adding these filts over the smaller one will produce more power ?

well its the owners call...im putting this engine together for someone,i just hate to put it together and have it blow after only a few passes on it,so i'm going to let him decide what he wants to do....that way if it blows he wont be surprised some how it seems to be trued and it turns without any wobble on the webs even though there not straight and i think this is not the $800 crank that the owner paid for,this looks like the $290 one guess i better get ready to spend another $40 to ship it back

also noticed how close the rod is to the web...i circled where its cose

ive tried hard to keep cool about this but this is getting ridiculous

so if the oil can not get to the bearing from the holes above the bearing with the seal backwards,because the seal is pressed against the bearing blocking the oil flow. the humps keeps the bearing away from the bearing is oil can get down in between the bearing and seal.

got the crank back and it fits in the cases good now but i notice that the webs are not even.....i dont know if that will affect anything or not ive just never seen them like this,i marked the crank where its not even. it turns in the cases without touching and appears to be trued.......i hope it holds up

i notice that the crank seal on the clutch side is installed with the smooth side against the bearing,could is cause a bearing to fail ? shouldn't the humps on the seal be facing the bearing?

BBP

yes tool box included only thing i dont have is a bottle

did you check to make sure it was true before install ?

will trade for drag/pipes/40mm carbs/cylinders/straightcut gears/...etc

not sure whats its worth? make me a offer