Larry's Shee

Pretty torn up by trucks and jeeps. Lot of short but deep mud holes

I don't know why someone would part out a good looking bike like this unless it's stolen.

Don't force it , get a bigger hammer. Really though ,if it doesn't come easily with a little twising you might have to split cases. Why are you pulling it ?

Check all grounds are clean and tite, trim plug wires 1/4", clean stator pole and pick up lugs , gap p-u coil. Check/clean all electrical plugs/switches.

Me wanna see to. Write-up on how you did it ?

Even EGT isn't infalable. Pretty hard to watch while riding. Don't know if even if in a 300' run IF you noticed you had 1500* ex temp it might be too late.

Might have burr on end. Why are you trying to pull it ? I presume you don't have cases split?

Unless you have adjustable timing plate , it's good to go. Seat flywheel (with key) blue loctite on threads, torque nut ,done.

Belive I saw a thread about it before ,them falling out . Might have to lay it over onto clutch side so it isn't leaking ,clean well with brake clean so epoxy sticks. Glad to hear it's running.

Spark and good spark can be two different things. Chech pick-up gap, are lugs clean. On my son's shee had to pull flwheel and clean poles on stator. Check flywheel key. Try different cdi if you have one.

It is a good tuning/diagnostic aid , water boils at 212* F at sea level. If your head/water outlet was reading 200* you would be getting close to danger zone.

Maybe float level. How are plugs?

What was I thinking , I 'M SOFA KING WE TODD DID !! You have to pull the engine because the motor mounts. Have to pull flwheel to split cases. And clutch. After re-reading your post , rings on right piston might be stuck /gummed up from extra oil. .002 sounds good for out of round/taper , hows pistons and clearance? Crank seals come in pairs. Only had one 'shee engine down , but have done lots of motorcycles.

Welcome to BHQ !! Just have to keep eye out here CL and E-gay. What are you using for a frame?

Don't think it would hurt , only draw back is you would'nt be able to flush case if there's any gunk. Make sure bike is clean so nothing falls down into case - that would be drawback of doing it this way. Mic piston and bore top , middle , bottom , front to back , side to side. will give you out of round and taper. If you are satisfied it's within service limits ,hone and new rings.

Only bore what is needed to clean it up. You would have a hard time measuring the HP between a 64 and a 64.25 bore . Even if you bored to max might not see a difference. No jetting change needed.

Pull the pipes ,roll to BDC take a peek thru ex , don't cost a dime. Look at skirt while at TDC, Ex side takes most abuse.

You're saying you drained the trans fluid and it was sparkilie ? A little or a whole lot like metal flake paint. How long have you owned it and have you ever changed trans fluid?

Welcome to BHQ !! If you have trouble sorting your problems , try the search function ,shoutbox , if all else fails start a thread. Get yourself a Clymers manual ,priceless !!

Make sure you have no burrs on crank or inside flywheel before you re-assemble it. Blue loctite and torqe or impact nut.

Stock bore 64mm. Calipers are not the best tool for inside dia. , Inside micrometer is best because you also need to measure several different places down bore.If you need a new piston your bore would have to be within service limits or less to just drop a new piston in. I.E. out of round and taper, plus you would have to use exact same style of piston. Would be far better off boreing to next oversize and start with totally fresh engine. Head would have to be remachined, replaced w/ stock, or get cool head. Crank will cost as much or more to be rebuilt as to buy new, make sure you get one that's already welded. New crank seals. Upgrade water pump if funds allow. JMHO , your results may vary.

X-2 on used rotating assemblies ,almost like buying a used rubber. Least piston cyls you can easily mic . Crank would take V-blocks, dial gauge , feeler gauge etc. If a friend had a crank and you knew it's history ,that's one thing , buying out of the blue ........

Just for shits and giggles pull your stator cover first and be sure flywheel is copesetic. Might have sheared key . Maybe do compression test first also. Bothof these cost no money and little time. Diagonose before dissassembly. Note color of plugs also so if you leaned it out you can fix that also.

Also check Flint CL two adds for jugs, Grand Blanc and Flushing (1 1/2 hr for U )

Drew , check Detroit CL, at least two adds for cyls. Was add while back for brand new cyl , think it was right. Maybe post WTB for a cyl. I'm N.W. of Pine Knob. BTW, be leary of the "fellow" in Macomb , little shady and overpriced.