stokes77

How much for the frame shipped to Canada?

How much for the black tank plastic/radiator plastic shipped to canada?

With my quad I've beat bolt on yfz and trx's... I've got Pro Flo filter with lid on, FMF SST's, Coolhead with 21cc domes at 140 psi compression, +4 timing, bored at 64.5mm

It's gonna be hard to tell exactly where you should be without knowing anything about you're porting, but it sounds like you should start around the 370 range and work you're way down if you've still got stock carbs. The easiest way to get the main jet dialed in is with a plug chop, there is a thread stickied on how to do one. Once you get the main jet figured out you can adjust you're needle clip position to clear up any bogs or hesitations in the 1/4 to 3/4 power band, and adjust the pilot to tune in your idle and low range.

Do a plug chop to see if you're main jet size is close. There is a sticky at the top of the page the explains exactly how to do it. I've got SST's on my bike and I think it is dialed in pretty good.... my mods and jetting are: FMF SST Pro Flow Air filter with Air Box Lid on Main Jet: 290 Pilot Jet 25 Needle: 2nd clip from top Air Screw: 1 3/4 turns out Elevation: 2000ft

Hey, guys I am looking for a 1990+ frame in nice shape. I would prefer one with a title but will consider anything. I am located up in Alberta, Canada so you will have to be prepared to ship to Canada. Post pics and price in here or pm or e-mail me at mark_stodalka@hotmail.com Thanks -Mark

Got pictures of the grill? mark_stodalka@hotmail.com Thanks -Mark

Take you're jugs and pistons off and see how bad they look. Take some pictures and post them on here. You should be able to get it bored and honed if you didn't ding up the sleeve too bad. It would be a good idea to split the cases and get the crank trued and welded, but not 100% necessary. The top end on a banshee is very easy to do, if you get yourself a clymer manual it will tell you everything you need to know. Doing all of the work yourself it should only cost around 3-400 for pistons/bore/hone and everything else you need for the top end.

lol... ya, those pics are from a very wet and very muddy weekend in porcupine hills last spring.

Well guys got her out today without the grill, she drove pretty damn good. No more than 190F on some of the slowest tightest trails! But now my dumbass managed to sink about 3/4's of her in water so now I've gotta clean up that one. Thanks for the help!

Ya, we may be going out on thursday night so I'm going to see how it runs without the grill and report back

Yeah I do, here is a pic of it, think this one would do it? I'll hafta try running this weekend without it, see how I do...

I had the needle in the middle clip but I found that I had aa hesitation right around the 1/4 throttle range. Also running water wetter but only like 3 capfulls, i think that's what it said to put it on the back of the bottle. Radiator is a little beat up, but nothing that should make that big of a difference and I make sure it stays clean, just had the whole thing off and flushed it out completely. I didn't do any of the coolant passages anywhere though. When the bike is running, should I be able to see the coolant flowing with the cap off?

I've got a Pro Design billet impeller. I haven't been puking any coolant out, but I constantly check the temp and shut it down before I think it would be getting to that point. I had the overflow filled up a few weeks ago and its empty now, but I think that is due to it just leaking out of the breather though, I cut it off a few inches from the bottle and just turned it down.

Hey guys, my Shee keeps getting up into the 230's fairly easy. A lot of my riding is on slower/tight trails not getting past 3rd gear but after riding around for about 15 minutes it gets pretty hot. I only know this with one of those Factory FX stickers on the side of the head, so I don't know how reliable that is, but I can definitely feel a difference in the seat of the pants once it starts running hot. The bike has FMF SST's, Coolhead with 21cc domes, Uni air filter, Airbox Lid on, +4 timing, Boyesen Power Reeds, Pro Design Impeller, 2 inline Rad Hose coolers, 145psi. Elevation is about 2500ft, main jets 290, pilots 25, and needle clip at 2nd from the top. The jetting seems to be spot on, pulls hard through entire power band. Did a plug chop with the 290's and it came back good. Is getting that hot so easily going to be normal for the type of riding that I do? It really is a PITA having to shut it down to cool all the time while all of my buddies can still ride around all day with no issues. Is there anyway that I can check the impeller to make sure it is flowing as much as it should? I just changed out the plastic gear when I did the impeller so I know that is good. I also was thinking that I could be running lean, even though the plug chop says otherwise and it runs great. How does my jetting look? I did a leakdown a when I rebuilt the motor and it came back good too, so I'm confident there isn't any sort of air leaks. What else can I do to bring the temp's down? Sorry for the long post, and any help/suggestions is appreciated! Thanks -Mark

If I was you, I wouldn't start upgrading the carbs until you get into porting the motor. If you're Banshee is completely stock, start off with pipes an air filter and rejet. If you still want more out of the motor, get a coolhead with some new domes to adjust you're compression, advance the timing, maybe get some reeds. You say you're riding the trails alot, so I'd go pipes/filter then put some money into the front suspension.

1. Drain oil 2. Pull water pump cover off 3. Drain Coolant 4. Pull Clutch cover off(There is a coolant nipple attatched to the clutch cover that kinda holds it on, but just pull evenly and you'll be fine) 5. Remove the circlip on the back side of impeller 6. Put new impeller back in just how the old one came out(Probably a good idea to change the plastic gear while you're in there) 7. Put everything else back together the order taken off, fill back up with fluids, done. Should take maybe a half hour

Got the crossover tube connected?

lol, how'd you figure that one out? Sorry man but that's funny.... Only thing that I can thick of is that maybe you have a bad ground somewhere. Check your wiring around the pipes, see if maybe it has melted the insulation, and just go through the harness look where it could be a problem.

Your needle won't affect your idle. Idle is dependent on pilot jet and air screws

If you're talking about the electrical wire, then yes you can remove it. Just make sure you're tors is unplugged or removed.

No one's every used these before?

What swing arm and chassis skid plates do you guys all think are the best? All I do is trail ride so I need something real tough. I completely demolished mine last weekend in the mountains, so I am in need of something new. I've been looking at the PRM, Pro Armor, and Armadillo ones. The PRM look like the toughest from what I can tell, but the Pro Armor look the coolest :cool: I also saw a durablue one which was made out of some sort of rubbery stuff that looked interesting, not sure if it would hold up though Thanks -Mark

Anyone ever used these? It seems they could get in the way of shifting and stuff, but I do like the idea of them. They also make a netted version