stokes77

The stock reeds should work just fine. Talk to Kevin and see what he recommends.

Herr jugs racing can set you up with a bolt on 4 mil kit for $670 with no porting. Don't just buy a crank and pistons from eBay. Get in touch with a builder and they can steer you in the right direction. If going 4mil I'd recommend doing some port work as well which will really wake the motor up. Get in touch with Jeff at F.A.S.T. or Kevin at Herr Jugs.

As said above the dimming of the lights is normal. What you should worry about is how it runs through the powerband. If it pulls smooth with no hesitations throughout, all you probably need to do is adjust your idle screws. However if thats not the case then you will have to look into your jetting. The best place to start is with a plug chop. There are articles on this site and on the internet with methods of how to do it. You want to start with a plug chop and get your main jet dialed in and then work down from there to your needle, pilot jet, and air screw. Either way i would definately do a plug chop to make sure your main is dialed in. If the previous owner didnt have it jetted properly you could be running lean and overheat then fry your motor.

Banshees are liquid cooled. If jetted properly, your bike should just sit there and be able to idle. I wouldnt reccomend letting it idle for extended periods of time, just like with any quad, but a couple minites is fine.

You mean a flywheel puller? Dont need any special tools to take the clutch out.

If you are at all familiar with your bike teardown will probably be 2-3 hours and another 3-4 hours to rebuild probably. I just stripped my bike completely and tore down the whole motor in about 6 hours. My first time into the bottom end and I was taking my time.

I mean I'm really interested but I need some more information on how used this motor is. You have any documentation saying when i was rebuilt? Have you done a lot of riding on it since then?

How many hours you put on it since the rebuild?

I'm interested. With a shaved stock head shouldn't compression be higher than 125psi?

Hey sounds like a fair price for shipping to Canada. Will get back to you in a week or two about purchasing one. Thanks! -Mark

Able to ship to Canada? Of so how much to Alberta T1B0A4?

Are these still available?

I'll have to see if I can find some N68A needles somewhere around me. I don't know if that will fix my problem though, the bike ran decent when I was doing plug chop runs, but when I started running around on the track it ran like ass. I'm gonna check that out and see what I find. Thanks! -Mark

I was at 27.5/290/Stock Needle Middle clip. The last time I came in on the bike, it was running really bad. I turned it off and let it sit for a while. I was going to try and run it without a lid, but I couldn't get it to start back up after that. I her home and checked compression on it, which was around 110, which I know is low... but I figure it should still run at that. So i put the plugs back in, and forgot to take the exhaust plugs out, and she still fired up first kick. It's just strange the way it's been acting. I never thought about the carbs being starved of fuel when i was at the track, so I never actually checked them to see if it was the problem. -Mark

Jetting was running best at 45 pilot, 150 main, middle clip of JJH needle. As far as I can tell the tank is flowing properly and it never overheated or anything, it just wouldn't pull. Before I put the carbs on, the bike ran great. I've thought about a pingel, but I dont think that is the real problem. The stock petcock should flow enough to support my mods.

Took it out yesterday and it ran good when I was doing some runs for plug chops, but as soon as I got going around the track I would lose all power. The bottom end was reasonable most of the time, but the top end would just disappear and not climb at all after a while. It was to the point where I could barely climb up some of the big table tops. The track had puddles and mud all over it, and It definitely lost some power when I hit them. All my bike has done to it is... FMF SST, Pro Flow Intake with lid on, +4 timing, Coolhead with 21cc domes, PWK28's, Boyesen Reeds. It got worse and worse the more I rode. At first I thought it was a jetting issue, so I changed jets like 5 times trying to get it dialed in. But I was thinking about it some more last night, and I think I may be running the bowls dry. My question is, how many vents do you guys have on your PWK's? Mine have one vent coming off of each side, one vent coming off the top engine side, and two drain lines on the bottom. The right side vent is usable, the left side vent is filled in, the top vent has a rubber cap on it, and the drain valve pointing down is usable, but the drain valve pointing left is filled in. Could the lack of the left side vent cause the bowls to run dry? I have clear fuel line, and it get air bubbles trapped in line sometimes. I've done my best to keep the fuel line as short as possible with the stock T, but it's hard to get them short and running down hill, with the clear fuel line. I also can't get a line on the bottom drain line, because it points straight down and runs right into the clutch arm on the left side and it's still really tight on the ride side. Sorry for the long post, but I am just trying to cover everything... If anyone has any suggestions or has run into similar problems, any help is appreciated! Thanks -Mark

Payment sent Thanks! -Mark

Oh, and also, I tore the carbs apart and it has a JJH needle in it. hercalmighty said to try an N68A needle. How much of a benifit is the different needle?

Allright guys, got the carbs in today and jetted as close as I can for now. Ended up with 45 pilots and 150 mains. All I can say is wow! These pwk's really changed the quad. The motor is a tired 105-110 psi(down from 145) and it seems like it's faster now, then it was with the stock carbs and good compression. It pulls the wheels up instantly as soon as you hit 2nd gear. I'll be going out to the track on Sunday, and I hope I can get it jetted perfect then. Thanks for the help. -Mark

PM sent

Looked into getting an aftermarket rear sub frame?

Allright, thanks for the help. I am just waiting to get the carbs then I will see whats in them for jets and go from there.

Thanks, I forgot to mention, I've got boyesen reeds on stock cages and my elevation is about 2500 ft and I ride quite a bit at 3500 and up.

I just grabbed some PWK28's and I need some help jetting. Currently I have stock carbs with a 290 main and 27.5 pilot, needle on middle clip. My bike has FMF SST's, Pro Flo Intake with lid on, +4 timing, and Coolhead with 21cc domes Where should my starting point for mains/pilot/needle be on the PWK's? What needle are you guys using with the PWK's? Where is the best place to buy jet's for these carbs? Off the net somewhere or can I go into a dealer and get them? Thanks -Mark

I'll take hubs, grab bar, and carbs. PM sent