stokes77

I've got the exact same problem and would like to know how to fix this. I run with a lid/no snorkel and everytime i hit a puddle remotely hard the carbs start stickin. Weird thing is as soon as I let the clutch out and start driving they seem to 'unstick'. For the most part it only happens when the clutch is in.

Sorry, forgot to mention I would like an aftermarket skid plate. If anyone has a nice aftermarket body skid I would be interested in that aswell. Thanks -Mark

Just as the title says. I don't want to get crazy with an expensive aftermarket swingarm, but I would consider if price was right. PM or E-mail me [email protected]. Thanks -Mark

Sounds like you're pilot is too big to me. Try a 27.5 or even 25. You can also adjust the idle with the air screws on the left side of each carb. Going in makes you go richer. I'd drop down to a 27.5, start you're air screws at 1.5-2 turns out and work from there. If you still can't get it like that try a 25.

How much to ship the skid plate to Canada?

I actually just had this problem with my rebuild. Had tons of spark, carbs were freshly cleaned and getting gas, and had 145 psi compression. But didn't want to start with 1 month old gas. Bought some brand new stuff and filled her up and away it went.

Hey guys, just as topic says, I've got Laeger's a-arms and my top right ball joint is wacked. Anyone know where to get a new one?

So what is this little tube for? That thing threw me for a loop a few weeks ago when I was rebuilding the carbs. I noticed the one bowl has a little jet in the bottom of it too.

I'd have to agree, top notch seller! Got Jugs and Pistons from him just as described.

You've got to split the cases to do it properly. There is alot of info on the forums about it if you search or you could buy a Clymer manual and it would explain everything perfectly.

Dosn't it say the dome size on the side of them?

Like savage was saying, it sounds like a possible air leak. Check the intake boots on you're carbs for cracks.

I didn't have a chance to do a plug chop after I changed the needle position... but I don't understand how it could be so lean just by moving my needle clip up a notch. It ran great here, and I was changing 3000 ft higher in elevation. I was still debating if I was going to split the cases, but I am thinking it's my best bet. The plugs were in 100% tight. From what I could tell in all the intake boots there was no cracks anywhere and the reeds were on tight with gaskets, so I don't think there was any air leaks causing a lean condition. Only thing I didn't check was crank seals.

Both clips were still in when I took the cylinder off.

I forgot to mention, I don't know if you can see it in the pictures, but the top pin that holds the ring in place was missing on both the right and left cylinders, could that have caused the ring to move over on the right one and catch one of the transfer's, thus causing all of this damage?

Ya I am planning on running 260 or so mains if I get a stock port motor and working from there. And I will do a leakdown test once I get it all back together. I really should have done it before I took it apart, but it was Sunday night when I got back and I just couldn't wait to take it apart.

That's a brand new plug that I put in trying to get it started, after the cylinder seized up.

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So last weekend went up to the mountains in crowsnest pass(about 3000ft higher then I currently am). Right before we left I installed the TORS removal kit, cleaned the carbs, and dropped the needle one position(it was at 4th from the blunt end so I put it in the middle). I didn't change the main jet, because it was all ready running a 230 main jet which I felt was kinda low with pipes and an air filter in box with lid on. However the the spark plugs looked pretty good, nice chocolate brown. Made sure the carbs were synced up. Took it for a rip up and down the alley and bike was running pretty good and idled great. The motor in this bike also hasn't ever been rebuilt, it's a 2000 so that's 9 years no top end work done. Bike didn't want to start when we first got to the mountains. Finally got it going... wouldn't idle. I figured elevation had something to do with it. Put new spark plugs in, adjusted the idle screws and didn't get a whole lot of success. Rode it for the morning and it was running allright, bogged in the lower end, was screaming at the top, but just couldn't keep it idling. I checked the plugs after our first ride and the right side was saying lean, so I pulled the carbs apart to make sure everything was good to go, ended up moving the needle clip back to the 4th from the top. Later on that day was riding it around some more, and hit a fairly big puddle, the bike died, I tried to kick it over and the kicker was seized. My buddy figured we should just push start it, so we did that and it actually fired back up, but it had a huuuge loss in power after that. I figure this is when the right side went. I took the bike for a short ride the next day and it was backfiring like a son of a b in the low end but once I got it revving it actually rode all right... I am sure it was running on just one cylinder though. So what do you guys think happened? Was it just the motor's time to go? Or could hitting the puddle have done this? I took the jug to a local guy today and he figures I need a whole new right cylinder. Sorry for the long post but I just wanted to make sure I included everything. Here are some pics of the carnage:

I'll take some pics of the jugs to [email protected]. Thanks!