stokes77

Hey guys just as the title says, Looking for some good shape Rear Hubs, aftermarket or stock... as long as they are nice Also want a nice aftermarket Grab Bar... don't want a 6 pack rack or one of the wider ones And a nice aftermarket seat cover, that's black, black/blue, or maybe blue. LMK what ya got! Almost forgot, I am up in Canada, so must be willing to ship up here -Mark

I'll take them if you'll ship up to Canada. Check your PM

I am not going to say that every part he sells is garbage, but his auctions are definitely misleading. And if you do so happen to get a part that is not in satisfactory condition... I can promise you that it will be a headache getting your money back from him, as it was for me. I tried to resolve the issue with him before I filed a dispute with PayPal and he basically told me to get bent. So I continued with the PayPal dispute and sent my item back. He then filed a non paying bidder claim on me, after I received the parts AND sent them back to him all ready. All in all it took over 6 weeks to get my money back, and I still didn't get all of it, because PayPal refunded me the full amount + shipping, but I had to pay out of my own pocket to ship the garbage back to him.

Just a warning... I've dealt with this guy before, he's a d-bag. The parts he sells are garbage. He filed a non-paying buyer complaint on eBay, because I filed a dispute with paypal to get my money back for the shitty parts he sold me. I would avoid him at all costs. Search the forums and you will find there are definitely more than a couple people on here with similar experiences.

PM Sent

I had the same trouble with mine when I was doing the wheel bearings. What I did was get a buddy to pull on the hub as hard as he can and I used a wooden block and a little sledge hammer and just tapped on the end of the spindle while he was pulling. It actually came off pretty easily once we did that.

I did this exact same thing a few months back. I ended up getting it out without splitting the cases, taking the cylinder's off, or taking the motor out. I just used a telescoping magnet through the intakes and managed to get it out. Just make sure that any washer's you have on it comes with it. Remember for next time to shove rags in there as soon as you take the reeds off to prevent it from happening again though.

As akheaton said the head on you're bike will be different then a banshee head. So you could get you're current head shaved down to raise you're compression or buy a head made for the RZ350. The only company I know if that makes one for the RZ is Pro Design http://cgi.ebay.ca/Yamaha-RZ350-RZ-350-Cool-Head-Billet-Pro-Design-Domes_W0QQitemZ380092192120QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item587f429578

It should be fine, my bike hates getting washed and is always a siv to get going right after washing.

Yes, for the most part, the only real difference in the RZ350 is it has powervalves and the tranny is different. If you are running on 91-93 Octane fuel then 21cc domes is probably you're best bet. As far as pistons go Wiseco Pro Lites are you're best bet. For cranks a wiseco or hot rods crank is good, but stock is fine as well, however it is a good idea to get any crank trued and welded so it won't come apart on you. Just remember the most important thing is the jetting. Don't want to ruin a new motor because it ran lean. If all you do is add reeds, rebuild the motor, and adjust the compression you should only have to go up around 2 sizes on the main and then play with the needle to get you're mid range dialed in. Plug chops are the best way to make sure your jetting is spot on. There is a sticky at the top of the forum explaining the process. If you've got the money to spend, you will see you're most gains by bolting on some pipes and an air filter. This will require you to bump up the mains and probably pilot jets quite a bit. -Mark

Not to mention the parts you get from him are crap. I had a big issue with this guy on eBay a while back and ended up sending the item back... he actually filed a non paying bidder claim on me... after I had paid for, received the item, and sent it back, because I disputed the item via pay pal. A quick review of his feedback on eBay will show you I'm not the only person this guy pulls bullshit stunts with. I know this guy has been around here a long time and has probably had a lot of customer's that were happy, but in my experience I would stay away.

Could it possibly the pickup coil or maybe one of the lobes on your flywheel has been damaged causing it to only fire at the TDC for one cylinder?

Did you install the Idle screws on the side of the carbs? You have to drill/tap and them.

I am not sure if the ones I had are the same, but mine came with a bracket that bolts through the holes on the footpeg and then the front just sat on top of the frame with some u-bolts clamping it down. On the clutch side there was also a little spacer to make up for the footpeg bolt that was reccessed.

http://www.dunereview.com/rebuild.htm

I was thinking about going to a local welding shop and seeing if I couldn't get some metal heel guards made for my shee, it'd be nice if I could have a picture of a set of them so I could give them a good description of what I want, and IMS to my knowledge is the only company that offer's a decent set.

^^^^^^

I'll take some pictures too... mark_stodalka@hotmail.com

I'd consider it, if you would ship to Canada... let me know if you're interested

My kit came with an O-ring maybe about an inch in diameter that I never could find a spot for. I just left it out and havent had any problems. It is possible you got a different kit though, seeing as the needle is shorter or you could have an aftermarket needle... not sure if they make them a different length.

Hey, sorry Randytbo, I don't mean to jack you're thread or anything... But I've cleaned my carbs over and over, adjusted floats, checked needle/seat and no luck figuring it out. If I leave the bike sit with fuel on my left carb leaks like a siv, but it will start. I suspect that the left carb drains itself out somehow when I shut the fuel off, turning the fuel back on and tipping the bike on it's ass fills it back up and makes it easier to start.

How about the Grill + Tank cover? I'm looking for a stock black grill/tank cover

No, stand it up, let the carbs leak out set it back down, kick it and go, My buddies does the same with his dirt bike too... lol tips it on it's side till the carb leaks out then it'll fire right up. I am sure it is carb related, I've got a brand new top end with good compression on my bike.

I've got this same issue actually. When the quad sits for a few days, the easiest way to start it is stand it up and wait for fuel to leak out of the overflows on the carb. Set her back down and first or second kick she goes. I've checked my needle valve and float over and over again trying to figure it out, but no luck

Yes, it will cause an air leak on you're right carb