kawa110

buy a 30$$$ manual it has step by step instructions. I hear the dvd is damn good.

im located in morongo valley north of palm springs 20 miles. I havnt even ran my paddles yet i was just curious to know why he said run em backwards. I didnt know if 10 paddles was to much and thts why he told me to. Your in banning? you ever make any trips to johnson valley?

ya ther 10 paddle the edge(v shape) by skat trak. i havent had chance to run em but when i do ill mount em normal. If they lug me down would i run em backwards?(atleast tell i trade for some 8 paddles)?

The guy i got my bike from gave me some paddles with the bike. The paddles are mounted on 10 inch rims. they are skat-trak, the edge. thers 10 paddles on em. I dotn know the diameter. He told me to run em backwards. He said ive been ridin glamis for 20 years trust me backwards. The bike is ported for mild drag, welded crank,wiesco top end 370, bored carbs,dual k&n pods, fmf's advanced timing, smoothed shift star, straight cut gears, I havent had a chance to run em, if i run em normal they might be to much lug but backwards thats diffrent.

allright ive decided on 10 in all the way around 5 wide in front and 8 wide in back. i went to chapparal motosports and they have rims right ther so i could just pick them up and check em all aout. the itp baja(fake beadlock) is what i settled for. Good price and they were beefer then the douglas red labels. Not that much heavier. They have rows and rows of tires. I still like the maxxis all trak for the rear. Im undecided on front.

they say universal but it wen i try to buy em it wants me to select make and yamaha not listed

ya im on the hunt also. the moment i see the ims for sale used somewere im on em. But i did find some universal blingstar heel guards, i dont know if they will work. but i found em througn the shopping link on the google page. http://www.google.com/products?q=universal...=en&show=dd

i didnt see aythig about 2-strokes in that article. it said for 4-stroke. Im getting ready to "break-in" or start since a new top end my 1978 yz250 2-stroke. I plan on using caster 927 with premium and mix a little rich. (this oil seems sticky and i feel it does well on my old parts by keeping em oily, I also love the smell) I usually start, warm up, then take for a light spin, shut down cool off check for leaks maybe tune carb little. then ill repeat 2 more times each time riding little harder, but not revvin out. Usually about half tank of gas, then ill fill back up with normal mixture on the rich mix. And ill ride it tell that tank almost out, Before i put next tank in ill pull the spark plugs, and fine tune it all. On next tank ill fill up normal mix warm up and light spin if all is good ill ride hard.

add this post to the sticky. nice looking bike.

take your hub off and ink or gread the ends of the studs then press it on the rims were you want your new holes when you take the hub off the rim it will leave the ink or grease were you need to make the new holes. I did this a few years back. i just drilled the holes out. they went right on and seemed to work fine.

ya mine is leaking also when its in off or on or res. It just drips a little enough to make the motor a mess and make me mad. Looking for a chrome aftermarket one. Pingul makes a 2 port valve its nice but like 90$. i might jsut get a stock one off ebay.

to prevent spillage you could get one of those short hoses that have the little billet release valve for air(see them on pitbikes aloste) not sure if the billet piece would restrict airflow. If someone gets larger bowls/bigger carbs/mod cap for flow, ect.... Wouldnt someone need to change ther fuel tank valve? I ask because i have been looking for a nice aftermarket one, the two port pingul or whatever it is called looks really nice but its like 90$$$. I really want a chrome one. lol. also would one have to make the fuel line larger? Do in line fuel filters and the filters that are on the stock valve in the tank restrict gas flow?

the digitial fs cdi is like 300$$$ I like the auto meter guage 5 inch isnt to big for the shee but its to big for my 110. I wonder how much it runs? I dont really drag race per say, i just think it would nice to have like a 2inch tach for my 110 that i overheat and ride to hard everytime i take it out, and the little tach would be nice on the shee for when im just cruzin around and it would make it a little easier to teach the girlfreind to shift instead of revving my bike way out.

i think sada blasting is mainly for rust.

I recently lost my key(more mad about losing the picture of my dog that just passed keychain that was with the key) and mad cuz i had to wire the bike until i get a new ignition and 2 keys.(need that spare) The red swith will also kill spark wont it?(my keyed igniton is wired)

How much oil was blowing out of ther? I run my bike real fat and it doesnt blow oil out of the front exhaust ports. Are you loosing radiator fluid out ther as well and not just oil? you just put new gaskets and seals, did you check all the mating surfaces for damage/scratches/cracks?

Didnt know had to ground the plug boots. Could i just use a wire for each plug boot that has a alligator clip in each side and stuff one side in boot to clamp on lead then the other clip to the frame. (one wire for each boot)?

I want a min tach maybe like a 2 inch or even smaller. I actually want one for my klx110. I would love to have one on the shee. It seems like these vaper tech things are a PINA to intall and then to calibrate. It would be nice to get a little tach that goes to like 15,000 rpm. I think ive found em car catalogs but they max at 9,000 or 10,000 rpm. :biggrin: :biggrin: And a shift light would be a added bonus :biggrin: :biggrin: LMAO

i wonder if ther more kicks it takes is a indication of rings going? I cant wait to my 78 yz250 back in the frame and test it. I just replaced the top end and im highly curious to know what its got. LMAO

did the bike get super hot and warp the head? IDK if this could happen, i dont see why not(if it got hot).

ya i like sliding the rear more then i jump. I am going with the red label 10x8 dirtdown under------what do you mean by 3.0? 5.0 and 2.0 are 5 inch offset and 2 inch offset yes? How much off was your rear then the front? I like the look of the 10 inch. I would like to have the front maybe a a inch wider then the rear or even.

bump----everyone runs stock rims and dont have any feedback on the tires they choose to buy after ther stocks go bald

i asked a similiar question today in the sticky thread "leakdown test" page 3.----- After i perorm leakdown tests on by shee and the 250 i want to do compression test i have the guage with the correct sparg plug thread hose, does anyone know the prpoer way to do the test/or know a link? I test the shee cylinders seperate yes? If the cyclinders areant seperate via the crank how will the comp test read per cylinder? and for the single cylinder how many times to turn it over? QUOTE (black sunshine @ May 27 2009, 02:02 PM) 6psi for 6 min is the recommended test.----leakdown test For compression, take out both plugs, turn ignition and gas off, hold the throttle wide open and kick until the gauge quits climbing. Quote (kawa110 @ May 27 2009) sounds good. 6psi for single cylinder?(all engines?, i have klx110 and eventually ill test it) Just kick until stops climbing 3 kicks or 12 kicks it wont matter?

bump............so far im highly considering the douglas ultimate sc wheels int the rear ill get 10x8 and 10x5 in the front as for tires i think (im not sure i havnt received any feedback on any), maxxis all trak(if i can get in 4 or 6 ply, kenda kutters, and maxxis m944

sounds good. 6psi for single cylinder?(all engines?, i have klx110 and eventually ill test it) Just kick until stops climbing 3 kicks or 12 kicks it wont matter?