Fullthrottle02

Rears are sold Fronts still available

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Motor was dune/play ported, cool head w/18cc domes, 28pwk carbs, CPI's, and all the other bolt on's. Swinger was stock. They worked great, when talking to John at STU i wanted something that would work with my current setup + a 4mil setup and +4 swinger i was planning on going to.

I have a full set of sand tires for sale. The rears are Skat Trak Haulers 21x12x8 9 paddle buffed bead to bead on Douglas blue label wheels. I purchased these brand new from Sand Toyz unlimited. These have 2 weekend dune trips on them. Superb shape The ITP Sand Star fronts have roughly a dozen trips on them, still in great shape. They are mounted to ITP wheels with standard offset. Haulers: $275.00 + shipping Sand Stars: $125.00 + shipping

Everything is good, crank in a hotrods, year old that has been trued with the extra penetrating weld. With my dune port and the 18's at 1000ft asl, I'm in the 190's. We will find out very soon, just got it all back together this weekend, will pickup some 110 tonight.

Last summer i changed my domes out to 18's from the 21's which boosted my compression to 190+ psi in each cylinder. Shortly after my cases started leaking in the front where the meet. I split the cases, resealed, when i went to the dunes on the last day it was blowing out vents, so i figured i had another leak in the cases, this time pressurizing the tranny and pushing the fluid out. I just got around to resealing the motor,, before taking in apart i did a pressure test and i had a leaking crank seal. Just re-sealed it again + installed a new seal kit. Love the way it runs, but i never had a single issue on pump gas, getting real tired of splitting the cases after every trip. Just performed another pressure test and it held 6lbs for 11 min. until i released the pressure. So now to the question, should i give it one more shot or swap my domes back to the 21's and run pump fuel?

I have the full yfz front end, arms, spindles, hubs, with ltr450 shock. brings it back to stock height. You can actually make out the resi's on my sig. Being that they are so large, you have to space them one way or the other so the springs dont rub in the arms.

I don't like bashing through any puddles, but sometimes they cant be avoided, get charging through the trails, especially following someone and there it is. Never very deep, just a little water in a low spot on the trail. I'll probably just leave it alone and take it with me just in case.

Going on a trail ride in a few weeks. Haven't ran anything but pods since the port work and CPI's. I am a little bit concerned with sucking in water if we happen to run across it. Should i leave the pods or put the air box back on? How bad will the air box choke down the motor?

There is about 7 of us going down here the middle of March. Has anyone ever been? Would like feedback on past experiences.

leaking oil out the top of the case where the clutch actuator arm is inserted. My vent lines don't appear to be plugged, but i will thoroughly inspect and clean this weekend. If my tranny is being pressurized due to a case or crank seal leak, etc. and vent tubes are not clogged, why would the oil not leak out of the vent tubes? I would think it would have leaked out the vent tube first, or at least both.

Don't know anything about that, but he still gets it and still has has it. I know he supplies fuel to the track in Grain valley as well. I doubt you find anyone else in town that will sell it by the gallon. You can go you any of the retailers, Freedom Cycles, etc. and by it by the 5 gallon can. If you do happen to find another place that sells by the gallon let us know.

Day Automotive in Independence. $6.80 per gallon for 110. 9709 E 18th St S Independence, MO 64052-1904 - (816) 461-7861 Have to be there by 5 during the week or noon on Saturday.

I have no doubt you ran a 13 flat, Is that you in the near lane? Looks like a SS not a Z? I'm saying I high doubt you ran that with a stock Z. Shave a couple tenths if its an A4 vs the M6. If you did congrats.

Just like J-Madd stated, have to remove the clutch to remove the bearing stop. The bearing has a cir-clip, so some choose not to re-install the bearing stop. I choose to have the bearing stop installed, if something comes up that warrants splitting the cases, I'm done anyhow, and saving 5 minutes not taking the clutch off makes no difference.

When I had my 94 Cobra, with under drive pulleys and exhaust, would run mid 13's all day long. The SS's and WS6's would run me down on the top end and consistently beat me a 2-3 tenths. My car and a Z were dead even, it took it every last inch of the track to catch me. I cant see a stock Z going 13.01

try leaning the needle 1 clip.

link 1 link 2 link 3 I am always changing crap around and trying new things. I am currently running this conversion. I have the yfz arms, spindles, hubs, banshee +2 tie-rods, and ltr 450 shocks to bring it back up to stock height. It works pretty good, a lot better than stock, and I haven't had any of the issues others have stated in other threads. I would suggest keeping the yfz parts on yfz's and saving up a little more money to buy banshee specific parts. You will be better off in the long run. I have no regrets by any means, but when I go to give the banshee a new face lift this winter we will be swapping her back over. If you do decide to move forward with this conversion make sure you have a great set of spindles. Any excessive play will be mutiplied 10x when installed on a banshee.

A multi led lamp my be as bright as a solstice/vision x lamp, but only at 2" in front of the lamp. With 1 larger led you utilize the reflector, which is needed to get the forward throw of the light. With a mr16, there are just no options. It just happens to be one of the few lamps that will work on a 12vac system. Snopczyski is right on with his previous posts. If your wanting a more blue tint, change your lights or find glass filter to put in front of your lamps. There sell them in all kinds of colors.

lol. Think he may have thought he was filling out a profile for eharmony.com. back to the topic, a dc conversion will give you more options, but like theeechozen1 said, the trail techs are all I've seen. Snopczynski, i know you have those leds, to they project out as far as an hid?

I run 2 o-rings on each side. One goes in the groove of the pipe like usual and the other goes on the cylinder before the pipe.

Tanks needs to come off

I know that, reverse is the only chance I have vs Tyler. Figured if I run it would be more comparable to his 450 runs. Its just a stock stroke dune port with all the bolt-on's. I be up there Sat. night for for sure, trying to rally some buddies to make the trip as well.