Holyman

You need to pull apart your front end and find out what you really need. I can sell you bearings to replace the bushings for $15 less than my eBay price but on the Jarms especially the upper sleeves AND bushings wear out more quickly and no matter which bushings or bearings you use the front will still be sloppy. The other thing is if your ball joints are bad, you're better off converting to A arms because they are much easier to get used/cheap ones, you can convert to aftermarket A arms and the upper bushings last MUCH longer than a Jarm bushing. The bearings will give better life than any bushing bronze or plastic because they roll instead of slide. But if you never grease your pivot points, nothing you have will last. So make sure you know what you need first and then let us know. We'll help you from there.

I think Meat used some aluminum to make a shield to protect against direct contact by mud with the filter. I would never use the stock airbox under any circumstances. Piece of junk as far as I'm concerned. Get some Aluminum or Lexan and make a couple panels to go on either side of the filter and go riding. If you riding conditions are naturally dusty, you're not going to prevent a dirty filter. If you ride in the dust bowl, and your filter isn't dirty, 1 or 2 things are happening... The filter isn't filtering and the dirt is going into the engine and/or the airbox is so restrictive that air isn't getting in. If there's dust in the air, it should be on your filter no matter what setup you run. If it's dusty where you ride and your filter is filthy, you're doing something right. If not, it's time to worry

The tubing is no bigger than the intake appr 1.5" You can make it easy on yourself and make it so it fits into the stock boots. Less fabbing and a better chance of no air leaks at the jugs. If you do the flanges, they have to be perfetly parallel with the jugs and unless you plan to have them milled flat, you're really just guessing. Hate to do all the fab work and then burn up the engine because of an air leak.

bignasty is gonna get his avatar silk screened on his banshee seat and he'll be happy til the piture rubs off Maybe he won't even notice the pic is rubbed off

I'll trade you an 88 Lincoln LSC and some money for it. Nice banshee.

Refinance your house and pull some money out. You can get all the stuff and drop the 4K into a new truck. You'll be set for another 10 years.

I still have a roller with a blown engine. Got any trades up or down?

I have a Trinity intake that needs a carb boot or I can get you a "Graydon" for $150.

Mostly wrong. The RZ jugs will bolt right on to the Banshee bottom. The powervalves are run by RPM's which require the use of the stock stator and flywheel and CDI. The RZ was oil injected so the oil pump was run off of the waterpump gear. The RZ jugs have a bigger water jacket and so the banshee head will not interchange. You do need the CDI, stator, flywheel, power valve controller and cables and the RZ wiring is important to have. You can also run a battery or the eliminator. The Battery can help woth even lighting if you ride at night. The RZ can boost the stock banshee HP from 37 to 55. So you get 50% morepower with the RZ top. Not a bad mod for the money.

Sounds like you're learning from your mistakes. Get a Banshee again and WELCOME BACK!!!

I used to run Yamalube at 40:1. Now I run Amsoil 80:1. Amsoil 100:1 is only $2.50 to mix 5 gallons at 80:1 or 100:1 for 6 gallons. See me if you want to order some.

I think only the J frame spindles will work.

There is only one engine I would replace the banshee engine with... The Kawasaki 750 2 stroke triple. Other than that, fix the banshee. It's cheaper, easier and available. You guys over there can also get RD/RZ engines which may be a good choice if you want to go crazy. Otherwise, do a top end and go RIDING

I have a set with a couple minor imperfections that fit the stock bolt pattern. Do you have any trades?

Can you send me a price on th Bandits and fronts and the hubs? I have a friend that wants the fronts and the hubs. I want the Bandits if they're 20" are they the 6 ply? [email protected] PS I've been having a problem replying with my email

Looking for factory stock fronts and Rear Shredders in 20" 4 or 6 ply.

That's a great price. Here's what I look for... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=19955&hl=look

I'm interested but I have to warn you that most guys won't buy without pics and a set of rims with the gold ground off can't be worth much. I tried that on an old pair of gold rims and it completely messed 'em up.

I went to Sports Authority and saw this in the window... http://www.rockypointcycles.com/docs/new_items.html This pic is terrible but the cart is tiny but looks like a blast!!!

Sorry I don't buy without pics.

can you send me a pic of the tires/rims? [email protected]

Send me an email on the blue plastic and the front tires and the thumb throttle. [email protected]

That's what i use, but propane. Not as much of the smell. 150,000 btus will heat a 3000 sq. ft. house, I know because I'm a builder and I also use it for that. Set it on the low setting, and the garage will no longer be cold. Get out the t shirts. I thought about getting the propane torpedo {salamander same thing} but I always run out of fuel on the BBQ on the weekend when the propane place is closed and wind up having to get raped for a "trade a cylinder" at the gas station. 5 gallons of kerosene lasts me forever {don't use it much} and is as easy to buy as going to the gas station for $1.50 a gallon. Besides I've got a tall ceiling in the garage and the fumes don't bother me. If you run the diesel, it smokes a little more but still does ok. One more thing, the electric to run it is insignificant. All its running is a small pump and the blower. Probably less juice than a 1500Watt heater. I gotta tell you 150,000 BTU's is much better than 1500 watts

Danny Gilbert and Ryan Smith... Your kickers are on the way Monday.

I got a torpedo heater that has a blower on it and runs kerosene or deisel fuel. I got it for $150 a couple years ago. Works great and heats like theres no tomorrow. One caution though... Propane, and Kerosene heaters have an open flame which WILL ignite fuel and chemical fumes. So be careful. Even electric heaters heat element could ignite flammable vapors. So what ever heater you use, it's best to run it for a while before you begin any work, especially with flammable vapors, and then turn it off and do your work. And NEVER leave it unattended!