Holyman

Sounds like an old boyfriend/girlfriend thing about to heat all up in this piece

can you send me a couple pics of those early rims? [email protected]

Motofast and Dynaport 2:1 pipes will work, as well as the Paul Turner pipes and the "out of frame" pipes. The rest need a dent in the pipe.

Hey girlfriend... Where've you been?

exactly. it's going to be weak either way. if you kinked it bad enough to cause it to tear then heating it isn't going to save it. all heating it is going to do is take more time {you have to pull all the plastics and wiring} and you'll still have a weak frame but now it will have a larger weak area from the heat and you'll have all the paint burned off. Put the grab bar back on and get out a big plastic hammer or an old wooden bat or a 4x4 and have at it. your bike is never gonna be the same anyway.

Yeah that it. Email me and I'll give you the BHQ price on a new pair. [email protected]

Don't bother heating it. The frame is made of an alloy that doesn't respond well to heat and it will soften it. Get a big hammer and wail on it til it gets good enough or take it to a shop and refab the rails sticking out for the grab bar. Heating it is a complete waist of time.

I'm looking for a like new PS2 with some games if possible. Must be in great condition. Email me with pics and a price... [email protected]

Here's one but you'll have to ask about condition... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25850

Send me an email. I have a great way of repairing it and pics to show you how. [email protected]

I've got dual rates and I would say HUGE diference. I have alot of woops on the trails I ride and after a half hour of that with stock shocks, I'd need pain killers. Now I just hit the tops of the woops and keep on going. I wouldn't buy new though. You can save some money by getting a gently used set. Make sure they are gentlyused. Shock take alot of beating so if you have doubts about a used pair, then pass 'em up and wait for another deal to come along.

Looks like this but grey...

The base of the filter itself is hard plastic so when you slip the filter into the boot, the filter kind of locks into a rib inside the boot. when you clamp the filter in, the boot is clamping onto the plastic filter base. It's a great filter and I will never use anything else.

Now my biased opinion. I sell bearings for the A arms. The brass ones will last longer IF you never grease your A arms. Bushings wear out because the grease is pressed out of the wear area and they rely on the grease to allow them to slip. They also wear gradually which helps you get used to a gradually worsening suspension. Bearings roll and so don't wear out UNLESS they get rusty which happens from neglect. I sell the bearings on ebay all the time BUT give BHQ members a $15 discount. Email me if you want to know more... [email protected]

That's right... I got yours. Didn't you go with CPI's or something?

I re-did the floor in my boat and I found that when they built it the injected foam under the plywood bottom but the foam was open cell. So once the boat got water in it {rain, splashes etc.} the water would get under the plywood and soak into the foam and stay there forever. Since the plywood was coated on top with fiberglass resin, the water couldn't even evaporate thru the top. I pulled all the interior out and used a 1/8" grinding wheel {WEAR A RESPIRATOR!!!} and cut around the edge and pulled up all the old plywood. I chopped out all the old foam and dried everything out really well. {it took about a year of spare time to complete so it was DRY } I used stainless screws to attach new 1/2 treated plywood down to the ribs. I wanted to use 3/4 but it wouldn't flex enough. The few ribs that were rotten got cut out and I glued down new blocks with resin. After the plywood is all screwed down I drilled 1/2" holes about 8" apart in a grid pattern and injected it with spray foam like Great Stuff. This bonds the plywood to the bottom and doesn't allow the same kind of voids the factory foam had. I used Bondo to feather out the areas around the plywood where it wasn't even or as flat as I wanted it. I made a nice cutout for the bilge area and bondo'd around it to keep water from getting under the floor. I went to Menards and got a dark grey indoor outdoor carpet with ribs in it for next to nothing and did the floor. I redid the insides with the black fuzzy "trunk carpet" like you see in the trunk of your car. Mounted new seats and it looked great. For materials it was about $10 for the screws, $10 for the carpet adhesive, $15 for the plywood, $30 for the resin and Bondo and maybe $30 for the carpet. The canned foam was about $15. It was super solid no squeeks or creaks and looked really good. You could do it in a couple weekends without killing yourself.

Full power, moon roof, leather interior and factory air adjustable ride. I'd never cram myself into a 'stang when I can ride in style. I might even add some money for the right banshee.

Send it to me with the $10 and I'll rebuild it for you. It won't lock shut and it won't rattle either. EMAIL me if you want to do that. [email protected]

I would be cautious. Make sure it doesn't say "Improved Mileage" or contain "friction modifiers". These oils have componants that will cause the clutch to slip.

The T5's just seemed to have crisper throttle and better top. I will say though that I have not made any jetting changes for these pipes and I changed from Yamalube 40:1 to Amsoil 80:1. So the throttle difference could be jetting. Don't get me wrong, they are a great pipe. I'm just more used to the T5's. They are what I "cut my teeth" on. I had not owned an ATV since 86 when I got my Banshee in 2000 and it already had the T5's on it.

I've got a Lincoln LSC w/a 5.0.

Do you have a website or an overall pic of the parts that you can post? In short, it's hard to trust new guys offering thousands of dollars worth of parts for every quad ever made.

I had T5's on mine and got stainless Trinity's from one of the guys here. I'm getting used to 'em. I still like the power delivery of the T5's a little better BUT with stainless I don't have to worry about riding her hard and putting her up wet. So I'm only going to run stainless pipes on my banshees and get the power the way I want it thru other mods. They are a well made pipe.

Try new plugs or hold the plug away from the block a little and see if it jumps from the end of the plug. If that doesn't work, check your plug boots. They can be on the wire but with a poor connection. Then check the coil connections and wiring from the stator. If it sparks a little I tend to think it's plug related.

Are you sure that doesn't happen when you file the non bidder report?