Holyman

No tires, wheels, hubs, spindles. Email me if you want to know more... [email protected]

Your Amsoil dealer should be able to provide you with the Warrantee. If they won't give you one, go to the Amsoil site and you should be able to look it up. I mix at 80:1 because I'm too lazy to buy a 6 gallon can. I just pour 1 bottle in with 5 gallons and it's 80:1. I would mix at whatever ratio is listed on the bottle that you have.

Read this and then decide. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...hl=real+science Unless your engine is ported, there is no provable improvement. In fact there is a scientific equatio on how to calculate the improvement... Take the weight of the stock crossover tube and add it to the weight of $35 in cash. Then take the weight of the boost bottle. Then using quantum physics extrapolate how much the lighter banshee will go. Then decide if you're gonna buy a boost bottle.

Got one that half rolls for $750.

OK then thumbs up. The great thing about Amsoil products is if you blow the engine because of their oils, they'll fix it. Just like any oil, there is a risk to your engine. Just remember your banshee is not a babies stomach, it won't get indigestion because you change oils. Either the oil works or it won't. I used to run Yamalube at 32:1 and immediately switched to 80:1 with no adverse effects. I made no jetting changes, ride thru the snow wide open for hours and still no problems. If the label says you can use it, then you can use it. If you want some of the 100:1 that I use, let me know... [email protected]

Now you can say you've got half a head for your half a brain Sorry... I couldn't help it. Them staples are a joke right!?!?!?

Amsoil 80:1

Option 1... pay the $20 and go riding Option 2... pay $70 and buy the right bead breaker {NOT the ones they sell on ebay that are red that don't work} change the tires and go riding. I tried all the methods above and wound up wit a bent rim and 2 wrecked tires. THEN I bought the right bead breaker. Shoud have thought it out better the first time

What size are they? send me a pic... [email protected]

I can't remember but take the case saver back off and see if the O ring or seal behind the little white cover is damaged or even still there. It will leak all over without the O ring.

I had FMF Gold's on my banshee and later put MotoFast 2:1's on and prefer the 2:1's. The FMF's had wild power in the upper end of midrange but I didn't like how it delivered power anywhere else. I think the 2:1 is a great pipe.

The engine responds to the same mods a banshee does... higher compression, better pipes, bigger carb and better air filter. The major drawback is the clutch. There is naturally alot more slip in the auto clutch and so wheely's for the most part are out of the question. That being said, there are also clutch mods you can make rather affordably to improve when and how the clutch hooks up. I have a Trailblazer 250. It starts in the worst weather and has a chushy ride, and they are a blast in the snow But I'd never get one instead of my Banshee.

I never go in water over the footpegs. If a 2 stroke has an exhaust leak at the pipe and the jug, it's much easier to get water into the engine. Just go around it.

I've got a spare engine and stuff... send me an email and we'll work something out. I'm going on vacation Tuesday morning so don't wait too long... [email protected]

Send me an email with a couple pics. I might even come and get 'em [email protected]

We're in the final stretch guys... any more last minute tips?

Just curious... which pipes are you putting 'em on? I want to adapt mine to my Trinity's and my MF 2:1's

WHat do you want in trade? I've got all kinds of stuff. Email me... [email protected]

These...

I sell it on eBay as metallic sex lube. The goth kids buy it UP!!! Or I use it in my flamethrower :flame:

It doesn't do it when I first start it up and then it gradually starts and won't stop unless it cools down for a VERY long time. I don't think it's a timing chain thing. It's a tinny sound that is consistant but random. It makes the same noise but not like a lifter that clicks every time it is bumped. It sounds like some sort of in and out shaft play. It doesn't really seem to get worse or faster when I accelerate. Someone told me that on the smaller v6's there is some sort of thermostatically controlled intake flap that may be loose. I'll check out the ramcharger site.

I recently bought a Dodge van with a 3.9 engine and after a few minutes, it starts to clank like the old cars used to when the exhaust flapper would break. Any help or websites would be GREAT!!! THANKS

It could also be the pivot bearings. I can get you a set if you need 'em.

I didn't think you were alling me a knob. I just figgerd I'd carry it forward Auto is the same way.

The A arm set with the spacers {you need the spacers when you remove the bushings. The spacer takes the place of the flange on the bushing} is $75 on eBay with free Priority Shipping and a bottle of Amsoil 100:1. BHQ members get it for $60. The A arm set with a built in seal is $108 on ebay is $90 for BHQ members and still comes with the spacers and Amsoil. I also do swingarm bearings for $15 per pair shipped. I guarantee all my bearings for 6 months against defects. So far I haven't had a single one come back.