evro

i'm running the r plugs and didn't have that problem. i think that changing out the plugs may fix it. the thing about new plugs is, you're gonna need them eventually anyways. my ppr is set at 2 and i was getting an idle of about 1350 so i think you're probably close. i tried the ppr at 0.5 and it registered my idle at over 2200 so i think 2 is the right setting.

being on the outside of this looking in, with good access to a wide range of media, i'd have to agree with you totally. the banking industry, wall street, auto industry etc were all fucked long before obama ever took office. these problems were many, many years in the making. my province has had seat belt laws for over 25 years, a seat belt ticket runs almost 300 beans and also 2 demerit points against your license up here. but with our health care system (gov funded) they argue that if you injure your ass cause you weren't buckled up, it costs them money. and the're right. no responsible businessman would leave himself exposed like that, so why should they? and they're also right about them saving lives...generally. been in a handful of rollovers in my time and walked (or limped) away from all of them. some of the time i was wearin a belt, some of the time i wasn't. but i've also flown over the handle bars of quads, sleds, and motorcycles (always wearing a lid), and survived. but now, i just buckle up cause i'd rather have the $$$ in my coffers than theirs. how does it work down there for those of you who carry insurance? does your insurance provider require you to be wearing your seat belt in order to be covered for injuries sustained in an auto accident? also a guy mentioned about fines for smoking in a vehicle occupied by minor(s)...i think about 3 or 4 of our provinces have that law as well, and the rest of them will soon follow. about 5 years ago they started to ban smoking in public places up here. now about the only way you can smoke inside is if you own the property. even at a bar, you have to go outside to smoke.

sorry, the allen wrench is for the stock rotor bolt, the sensor that replaces the rotor bolt is 12 mm i think

i tapped into the power wire the same way volfan did. i tried to bend the speedo mounting bracket too with little success, almost breaking it as well. i applied some heat and got it to bend just enough to be able to use it but i did have to use a drill to expand one of the mounting holes a bit so that it would fit. be careful installing the magnetic bolt on the rotor. the instructions say 10ft/lbs and when i hit 8ft/lbs, the head snapped right off. i used jb weld to put it back together and it seems to have worked. my advice is to be generous with the locktite, and easy on the allen wrench...lol. i wrapped the tach lead 10 times and it would idle around 1350, but it would spike to 2200 on the gauge (only on the gauge though because the engine was maintaining a steady idle) every 4 or 5 seconds. the advice i got from volfan was not to wrap the lead, but just run it parallel along the plug wire and e-tape it up. haven't had a chance to do that yet, but i plan on trying it this sunday when i get a chance to work on her a little bit more. when i test ran it two weeks ago i was using a set of small 19 inch tires up front (thats what the last owner had on it, not my choice for sure) but i switched over to my 21's last weekend so i'll have to re-calibrate on sunday also. not too worried about that though, cause like i said before, i found it really easy to calibrate when i had the gps to correct it.

i got one in december but havent really had a chance to use it on a good ride yet (still too much snow yet). it was easy to install, and the speedo calibrated very easily. i made one measurement, set it, then ran it and compared it with GPS. it was out 2 km (1.2 miles)@ 60 kph (37mph), which is damn close. i wanted the tach and temp gauge more than anything but all the other features made it a good buy. the factory mount is cheap plastic which could break very easily. i like volfans mount...simple, effective, and inexpensive. trail tech wants as much money for an aluminium (billet?) shroud as they do for the computer itself which is fuct. it may only be like that here tho cause getting shit in canada is more expensive. if you like gauges and digital instrumentation, i'm sure you'll love the vapor dude....

built a tire changer myself using an old bench grinder stand that was kicking around the farm. i'm getting my neighbour who has his own machine shop to rig up the rim mounts and the install bar for me. it wouldn't qualify as "universal" but it fits every atv rim we have on our farm so its good enough for me. i basically used online photos and videos for the ideas. i still have to break the beads the hard way (hydraulics are too expensive, lol) but i've done it enough that it doesn't seem that hard anymore. when i change over my 9th tire, it will have paid for itself in the savings from not going to a tire shop. with mounting and dismounting atv tires, lube (rim and tire) is the key. :thumbsup:

all of my toys are she's. quad, sled, bike, car, truck, farm equip etc. guys ask," how fast did you have her goin?"..."what are you doin to her"..."put some new tires on her"..."fuck, shes fast". etc. etc. guys refer to their banshee's as a cub. whats intimidating or scary about the word cub? instantly i think of a bear cub, which isn't nasty at all...unless you're between it and its mother...and the mama bear, now SHES one mean nasty bitch.

sled speedometers aren't terribly accurate even if you're on dragtrack or hard surface. they can be way out due to slippage and calibration issues. radar and gps are the most accurate. i'm not trying to say you guys didnt hit those speeds cause i know its possible. i've been putting on 1500 to 3000 miles a year (depending on the snow levels) for over 20 years and you're right about duplicating the rush of a 2 stroke sled. its just not the same on a four stroke (snow or otherwise). they're great on groomed trails but tossing around one of those front end heavy 4 strokes in deep snow all day is like wrestling a bear. what else can i say, powerband is meant to be delivered, NOW. thats the same reason i bought a banshee and not something else. easy to mod, cheap to rebuild, and tons of available parts.

yeah im using the br8es...got loads of them around cause the sleds use them too. i had read in a previous post that some guys were having troubles because they weren't using the resistor type plug. the only other issue i had was with the factory mount. the renthal bars that i run dont really allow for a nice fit anywhere. the only place it fits the bars nicely, its pretty vulnerable if the quad ever lands upside down (which i hope it doesn't, but these things do happen). i saw the custom mount you had posted on an earlier thread and it looks like a really good idea. the trail tech shrouds look really sweet but i dont know that i want to spend more on an aluminum hard shroud than i did on the vapor itself.

cool, thanks for the input. With ten wraps i had the PPR set at 2 and it wasn't too bad but at an idle, every 4 seconds or so the gauge would spike from 1300-1350 up to 2200-2300 but there was no audible change in RPMs. i think all i really need now is some fine tuning and it'll be good.

Hey guys, fairly new to the site. I'm currently not riding due to a few feet of snow, in a month i should be able to ride alot more. I've been watching the forums since buying a shee in Dec. I'm not heavily modded from a mechanical perspective, it has; DG pipes & silencers, reeds & spacers, K&N filter. I havent had a chance to get into the carbs yet so i'm not sure how shes jetted. TORS is still in tact but i hope to take care of that within the next couple weeks. I installed a trail tech in January and snapped the head off of the magnetic rotor bolt at about 8ft/lbs. Luckily i was able to back it out with a pair of vice grips. Used JB Weld to put the head and the bolt back together. Finally got the chance to put it back in today (with some liberal amounts of loctite) and calibrate the TT. I know the speedo is fairly easy to set because i used my handheld gps to test the speed. At 60kph (37mph) on the TT, the gps was showing 62. Thats as accurate as i need it to be. I wrapped the tach lead around the plug wire 10 times and taped it up. My idle is showing around 1300. I was wondering what kind of PPR setups you guys are using? With my mods, where would my redline be at? 7500? 8000? I don't know. My riding will be 50% field and prairie, 40% trails (mainly open woods trails), 10% sand. What kind of temperature settings would you guys recommend tuning to? Any other advice you can think of is welcome. Thanks in advance guys.

ditto on the heat. a heat gun, propane torch, even a hair dryer will help. lighter fluid and a rag will also work to wipe off any adhesive residue that may be left behind but dont go out and buy some just for that purpose....only difference between lighter fluid and WD40 for this purpose is that lighter fluid won't leave any film itself because in small amounts, it will evaporate. since i bought my shee i have removed probably around 20 decals. the last owner must have got a shit load of them and anywhere he could see blue plastic, he slapped one on. it looked terrible. i even found them on the inside of the tank shroud plastic after i took it off. WTF...

seeing as how you started the thread i thought id give you my $0.02. I am new to my banshee as well and i really cant get out and ride it for another 6 weeks or so yet. It came with a boost bottle on it so i dont have to shell out any $$$ for one. Here's what im gonna do after i remove the Tors: 1- Get out and ride the quad a few good times...get the feel for it. 2- Replace boost bottle with stock crossover. 3-Repeat step 1. Then i'm gonna decide for myself. Its not that i dont trust the guys on the site, but they won't be riding my machine, i will be, so my opinion is the most important. If the bottles are such shit, you should be able to pick one up for next to fuck all$$$ anyways? I'll tell you what, if i don't keep mine you can have it for the shipping....but thats just my opinion.

Nice bro!!! i loved that show. :thumbsup:

agreed, nice job on the seat. looks good.

I would have to say black as well. Mine is the stocker seat with blue plastics. It has black sides and a blue top. I think an all blue seat would be too much blue. I like the way the black sets it off plus i think black seats may be more forgiving in terms of showing wear and tear but i could be wrong about that.

X 2.

bonne achat, mon ami! la vierge! :biggrin: hard to believe shees almost 5 years old and never been abused....yet.

hi guys. i've got a 2000 and i'd like to do a taillight swap to an 02+ so that i also have functioning brake lights. what replacement equipment am i going to need (switches, harness etc.) to make this happen? I tried doing a search but didn't have much success....likely didn't do it right. If any of you guys have done this, i'd appreciate your .02c thanks

near Brandon, Manitoba myself. only had mine for about two months so i havent really had a chance to run it...but that could change soon cause there is hardly enough snow left to run the sled after last weekend. for friday here the forecast is 0 degrees. Bye bye snow.

x2. i just bought a blue 2000 and there are stress marks in the usual places. makes sense to start somewhere on the underside to get the feel for it. then if you mess up its not too visible. do you use a protective barrier (heat tape or foil tape) or do you just make sure to keep a safe distance with the open flame?

perfect. thanks for the response. i just picked up a 2000 Banshee in December and have been researching this unit after seeing it on ebay. I've had/have street bikes and sleds, but nothing like this. All of my units have tachs on them so test driving this thing with no previous riding comparison was interesting. I'll definitely get one of theses units. the temperature sensor is another huge plus for me with my limited experience on banshees. the yfz450 front shock changeover looks like a good idea too. not a huge guy but at 200+ lbs decked out, i would likely appreciate the added travel. The buddy i bought it from said the stock suspension is not terribly durable and the closer i stay to the ground, the better. Great site guys. looking forward to more mods and tips.

i've been thinking about one of these myself. i emailed a dealer and asked about the back light and warning lights and the reply stated that without a full 12 volt system (including a battery) the lights won't work. for those of you running off the stator, do your warning and back lights work? or just strictly your gauges? thanks

hahaha interesting forum. just bought a 2000 shee in December and the boost bottle came on it. luckily the guy threw in the crate full of all the parts he had so all of the stock equipment is there too including the crossover tube where the bottle goes. sounds like i'll be putting that back on in the spring along with scrapping the TORS. nice to have all this experienced info so a guy doesn't have to spend too much time figuring this out the hard way. just by removing the bottle i shouldn't require different jetting, should i?