evro

yeah, i love my trailtech. i like being able to keep a close eye on the temperature. i calibrated mine with a gps as well. I'm within 2%, thats pretty damn close, as close the average automobile. at speed, the tires get narrower and taller* so theres always gonna be fluctuations. :thumbsup: freudian slip

Stopped in at the shop today and they gave me a phillips driver, 6 ml socket, and 2 dental picks then sent me out to their old shed and a pile of probably 150 old carbs. I found a bank of 4 mikunis off an old inline and was able to get all four washers out so i'm back in business. :thumbsup: I sure do appreciate your offer to hook me up though. Thanks man. I was thinking that 230 mains sounded lean but that was how my buddy ran it for 4 years....but you're right about it being jetted for the lid, that is how he ran it. I'll be calling Jeff tomorrow for my TORS eliminator, carb kits, and recommended jets...and maybe K&N pods as well. I'll have to see. I don't really get into water at all except for early in the season when there is still a bit of snow on the trails. Plus i can keep the airbox on until it dries up. I'll likely head out tomorrow and put the carbs back together (and the lid back on the airbox) so i can run this weekend without doing any damage but i'll keep you posted with my jetting adventures after all my parts get here. Thanks again bro, you've been a big help and i appreciate you responding to my post that no one else seemed to want to touch. later heathen.

emultion tube, you say. thanks for the correct terminology. lol. i've got the right carb sitting in front of me. i don't have the left for comparison but its pretty obvious that a washer will solve the problem. thanks heathen. i'll try my local guy first. for everything i've spent there in the last 6 months, i'm pretty sure he'll just toss a couple washers across the counter. With K&N filter, full DG exhaust and an open airbox, does a 25 pilot and 230 main sound close to you? The quad was running great until just recently and it never overheated once. I've got a trail tech temperature gauge. I'm at 1600+ ft and running 15 C (50 F) - 30 C (90 F). Most of the guys that i can compare with on the setup thread are running 270+. If i make the switch from the airbox to pods what kind of a jump should i try on the mains? 250 maybe? And should i fuck with the pilots?

I've been out on my new (to me) banshee about 6 or 7 times. I know the needle valve and seat need to be replaced because when shees not running, gas leaks out the overflow tubes if i don't turn the fuel cock off. Aside from this, it was running reasonably well until the last couple of outings when it developed a mid range bog (which led me to believe she was running rich). I had done some homework and decided that i would raise the needle clip 1 notch. I haven't been into the carbs yet so i thought it would be a good chance to see how its jetted also. So today i started by pulling the left carb (fuckin TORS shit has to go, what a pain in the ass for working on carbs). Its running 230 mains with 25 pilots and the needles are stock, on the 3rd notch. I raised the clip one notch, put the carb back together and then went to the right side. After getting into the right carb, i noticed that there didn't seem to be the same amount of the main jet visible as on the left carb. I got looking, and the main nozzle will quite freely move in and out of its port, taking the main jet with it because they are threaded together. This kind of explains why it went from running well, to being rich. What do you guys do to keep the main nozzle in place so it doesn't move? I'm wondering if the last owner had the same problem with the left carb because when i looked into it, it looked like the inside of the carb was dinged right beside the nozzle in two places. Pops suggested that maybe they used a small punch to burr the edge of the nozzle and the carb housing to keep everything in place. Have any of you guys encountered this before, and what are your thoughts? I'm going to get rebuild kits anyways (and TORS eliminator) to take care of the needle valve and seat, plus id like to keep a few different mains on hand just in case. I'm just not sure how to tackle this nozzle. Likely, if i can solve this nozzle problem, i should be able to put the needle clips back on the third slot as well? Thanks in advance guys

kamloops is 1500 km from where im at. if i'm going to travel that far to ride, i'll be getting a few days of it in. i love the mountains, have been through several times, and there would be some kickass riding there for sure. got a buddy in kelowna, (he used to live in Surrey) hes not a rider, but if i were to be out that way anyways.... ...always looking for an excuse to ride

well the ltr450 shocks showed up today in good condition for a great price. fuck, they're meaty. there is absolutely no comparing them to stock. the hubs, spindles, and rotors should be here by the end of the week. i'm going to get the fabber started on the tie rods tomorrow so they'll be ready when i get the arms. i'm hoping i might be doing the conversion on saturday instead of riding but i may not get the arms and brake lines till early next week. either way, by next weekend i should be back on the trails with a new front end..... :thumbsup:

here's to a speedy recovery. hope your mixing and burning soon...

yeah, 5 is the best but i do like the two that have sand and turf.....banshees are awesome out of the sand too

well things are coming along nicely. the o4 ltr 450 shocks are on the way as well as the spindles, hubs, rotors and tie rods. i should be able to pick the control arms and brake lines up next week. so the only things i need to get fabbed now are the tie rods. eventually i'll replace the calipres but i dont need them for now. i'll keep you guys posted on my progress. thanks for all your help so far....

i run neoprene dirtskins myself and think they're awesome. i've heard the nylon lets dust through and also stones can still chip your springs through the nylon. neoprene is waterproof and also provides some cushioning if you get caught on the wrong end of a roost. i wont run without them. i'll be doing the yfz450 front end swap soon and will be using ltr450 shocks and they'll definitely sport dirt skins.

crazy skills man, looks awesome :yes: :thumbsup:

hey thanks for the clarification guys. the only parts i can get from this source are the control arms and the tie rods (rear shock also but i don't think it will fit the banshee, your opinions?). he'll also sell me the stock brake lines off the 450 and i'm assuming they'll be longer than the shees. i can get my banshee tie rods extended so all i really need are the hubs and spindles. will banshee rotors mount up on 450 hubs? i think i read in another forum that the the banshee calipres would work if you used a longer mounting bolt? your thoughts? the hubs and spindles are always on ebay but being north of the 49th makes things just a little more $$$. on a side note, today i snapped my renthal handlebars flush with the clamp on the right side trying to pull a wheelie. i was only in 3rd but was in a wide open field so no wipeout luckily. i had to ride back to the yard steering with my left while i feathered the throttle and busted handlebar in my right. good thing i wasnt on a tight woods trail doin 40 or 50. i can throw the stockers back on for now though. thanks again for the help guys

hey guys, theres been quite a few control arm related threads lately and i've been reading them all. even used the search! i may have a line on a barely used stock set of control arms off an 04 yfz 450 le. he also has the factory brake lines available, having been replaced by steel braided lines on the bike. from what i can gather, i should buy the brake lines as well because they'll still be longer than the stockers on the banshee, is that correct? as i understand, the spindles, calipres, tie rods, and rotors are original and stayed on the bike so they aren't available, but he is going to give me a list of everything he has available. i really want to do a full swap but if i can improve my ride for the time being i think i should do it. i ride mainly trails and XCountry so i dont mind the idea of a little extra clearance but if dont swap out the banshee shock, how much lower will i be? i know the 450 spindle would make a huge difference here, but its currently not available to me. i dont know if the shocks on the 450 are aftermarket or stock. if they were replaced by aftermarket, should i pick them up as well or is there a more suitable shock that you guys would recommend me to use having done the conversion yourself already? what is the bare minimum i should convert before i can safely ride the shee? if i can only get the control arms and brake lines, should i throw them on right away or wait until i have a few more 450 parts to go on with them? thanks guys, sorry it's a long post...

Friday after work = psychologically satisfying.....cause saturday i'm gonna spend the whole damn day riding :beer:

I'm think i'm going to buy a second set of new plugs and try the plug chop test on Saturday. Simple, straightforward, and cheap......

Hey guys. I've got a 2000 with K&N filter, DG exhaust, and V3 reeds. I just picked it up a few months ago and have only recently been getting out on it. I noticed that it seemed to be getting too much fuel. She'd bog just before the powerband and then after a few seconds (clearing the cylinders i expect) it would take off, but still not with the power it should. Last night i decided to take the lid off the airbox to see if breathing better would help and holy fuck, what a difference. Thats how shes meant to run...no hesitation and easy wheelies. My buddy who has been on it once or twice for short little bursts said he couldn't believe the difference. Like a whole different machine now he says. What i'm wondering is how much of a difference there is with jetting between running with the airbox in tact, or with no lid? I know it should make a difference in performance, but i wasn't expecting the performance gains that i got. Are jetting modifications necessary between running with/without the lid (i guess it stands to reason cause you are changing the air:fuel mixture?), or should i be trying to figure out if theres any other problems? I havent been into the carbs yet to see what its running for jets, but i plan to this weekend along with new plugs and recharging the K&N. I'm at 1600-1700 ft above sea level running stock carbs on pump fuel. What would you guys suggest i be running for the carb setup? Thanks guys, Ev

X2.......... how many times have you been spammed previously?

supposed to rain tomorrow so we went today and i got to burn a tank of fuel through her. What a riot. Still alot of snow so we did get wet but thats half the fun. About 3 miles away from our vehicles on the way back we switched up and my bro-n-law took the banshee and i took his CR250. He crossed the highway and went to play in the bowls on the other side. As i was coming to cross over, his CR revved up on its own and i knew what was coming next....PUTT...outta fuckin fuel. Luckily there was about 1 litre i couldnt squeeze into the banshee so i ripped back to the vehicles, picked up my gas can, went back and we called it a day. I was impressed with how easy it is to get the banshee to drift and she assaulted the sand like like a mofo. Only complaint is that i had difficulty getting to shift into 5th and 6th. i think my clutch cable needs some fine tuning and i think the shifting lever could do to be about an inch and a half longer as well but other than that i can say i've been bansheefied. :thumbsup: now to decide on more mods!! thanks to the guys on the site who helped me out so far. tons of good info on the site and good chatter as well.

good news, good news. :biggrin: Got my 00 Banshee just before Christmas, bought it off a buddy from work so i know its been treated well and maintained properly. i also know the original owner through association and he looks after all of his toys top notch. I haven't put more than two miles (1.5 miles on gravel, half a mile on groomed sled trial) on it yet due to Canadian winter (i sled anyways so its not like theres nothing to do). But the snow is basically gone as of today so the boys and i are headed out on Sunday. Theres miles & miles of trails and XC tracks in total but its only about a 10 mile field and open woods trail ride to our local sandhills. I cant fuckin wait. I've been itching to run her for almost 4 fuckin months now and the time has finally come :thumbsup: ....... Not seriously modded, K&N filter, reeds, full DG exhaust (i know, anything else is better....except for stock) but the only i other quad i've owned (still do) is an 84 Moto-4 225 Yammy. A tougher machine has never been built, but it doesn't exactly....ignite your senses so to speak. Gonna be ridin with KX250 and YZ250 so i dont know what to expect....hopefully im not disappointed cause i cant take her back if i dont like it. lol

my condolences to you and your family bro.

canada, australia, parts of europe i think still as well and other countries....although they just announced that 08 is the last year in Canada, i dont know if they'll be selling them elsewhere still or if Yamaha is going to retire it finally?

X2....gps correction is the most accurate method (including radar). it may take a little longer, but another 15 minutes was no big deal to me.

must be in the desert somewhere with all that camel-toe around

hey dude, read your other post. shitty deal man. hope it all works out for you and your family. hopefully i can help a brother out here. i was surprised that a product made in the states asked for metric inputs. you can still program it to display and record in mph but the mm (millimeter) shit surprised me. luckily, us kooky canucks use metric measure. there are 25.4 mm in 1 inch. I calibrated my vapor to a 19 inch front tire but i just installed 21's last week so i\m gonna have to recalibrate to 21 as well. Instead of relying on the tire height to be an exact 21 inches, i measured from the ground to the top of the tread. It will be close to 21, but likely give or take a little. one thing to consider as well is that at speed, tires will get narrower and taller so a slightly higher than actual sitting measurement may end up being a little more accurate. preferred psi has a slight affect also, but not drastic enough to compensate for. if you have access to gps, then just start with the 21 inch measure which will give you an input of approximately 1675. then go out and compare the vapor to the gps. if they're close enough for you, you're set. if not, then measure the front wheel height exactly and insert it in the formula below. plug the new input into the vapor and compare it against the gps again. you can use the range between the two input #'s to fine tune. tire height in inches X 25.4 X 3.14 = vapor input for example 20 3/4 inch tire height : 20.75 X 25.4 X 3.14 = 1655 21 1/4 inch tire height : 21.25 X 25.4 X 3.14 = 1695 that kind of gives you an idea of the range you may have to play with. that 1/2 inch difference in tire height gives you about 40 mm difference in tire circumference that you can use to fine tune. just got another 6 inches of snow here so it will be a few more weeks before i can get out and recalibrate mine but hopefully this gets you on the road. good luck bro

x2. :thumbsup: good to hear that the plugs solved it. now go run the shit out of that thing :biggrin: