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Ieat4strokes

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Everything posted by Ieat4strokes

  1. I'm looking to trade my 21x12x8 10 paddle extremes on Douglas blues for your swinger 8-10 over.
  2. I know somone out there has a plus 8 or 10 swinger they wanna trade off for some extremes, cmon now.....
  3. gotta chance to buy some drag ported by FAST 4 mill stock cylinders for a decent price, he said they are .40 over.....how much life is left in them? bores? etc?
  4. cmon people, cylinders are barely used, probally 10 passes on 300ft track, nothin at all wrong with them just im about to make the cub jump more than likely. t5's i bought brand new, not used, great looking pipes
  5. :biggrin: if I got the 611 DM dude wifey would burst a vien in her head, and id be looking for a place to stay hahaha
  6. I have a set of T5's exellent condition, not even a couple months old, no rust, dents nothing, look brand new - 375 candy blue powder coated drag ported cylinders pistons included - 64.5 bore - $450 - port alone cost that If you want some pics email me @ [email protected] serious inquiries only
  7. Talked to Kevin at HJR via e-mail and he seemed to think I should go with a stock build, didnt really say why other than costs. But honestly after 525 going by his site for a 4 mill drag port, bore hone pistons rings 4 mill domes etc etc Im right there knocking on cubs door. Im aware of all the other things I need, swinger, lockout etc, Im just worried about the powerplant now, that shit will come as my pockets allow.... I mean money is a issue i believe with alot of people during these times but I wanna b happy as well, fu@k happy i wanna b scared!
  8. Has anyone got the cub kit from jeff? on the pic it has pistons, domes and all for 875....or is it just a pic? i was confused because it said KIT and that made me think all of that came with. I shot him a PM and asked him, but im waiting on a reply. So with my extra set of stockers at 65.5 bore would it be worth to just get them drag ported for a 4mill? how much life is left?
  9. Well I have some untouched stockers laying around but they are at 65.5mm already, not much life left in them at all, thats why i was wanting to go cub, but if i can get some stockers to run mid 4's then ill be happy with that. honestly. Boosted - Ima hit u up very soon, within a week, so be ready!
  10. Im ready to make that leap now fellas, I snatched me up a 4 mill 115 crank, already trued and welded. Now im on the hunt for a set of cylinders ill be pleased with. Ive seen a few posts that a set up 4mill drag ported stockers will hang with a 421 cub, so is it just a matter of being incognito?? This sucks because i just spent 700 on these cylinders i got, (port, bore hone,complte top end kit)......but thy have to go, I need more and frankly these 4 strokes are getting faster and faster, theres sveral at my track running 4.5's and better and my lil stockrs cant keep up. Best Ive got out of em was a 5.0 but the guy at track said clocks wre screwed and i was running faster. So ill mainly be running 300 ft dirt, what do i want? 68mm 4 mill and go with the 421 or stockers drag ported for a 4 mill? I do have a extra set of stockers unported. With the 68mm big bore ill have to have big bore pipes right???
  11. Before I bite the bullet and purchase some new, wanted to see if anyone had some.... Im looking for some 4 mill 68mm cubs, have 10 paddle extremes on rims I'll throw in and some cash.
  12. I have em, trying to trade em off......and if your cylinders were drag ported for a 4 mill, they would be yours!!!!!
  13. well mine has never leaked at all either, thats whats crazy, why it all of a sudden started leaking. Of course it dos it when i put some $10 a gall gas in there. fuccin shiit!
  14. Which on is better? got a chance to get a nice deal on a 4 mill longrod wiseco crank, welded trued...... or should i wait and get a hotrod? anyone had any issues with the wiseco crank??
  15. Actually i never touched it, just started leaking, not like its pouring out, but a constant drip from between the tank and the gasket, someone told me ultra black sealant avail from any auto parts store, i got some and im ltting it sit now......ill post results
  16. Ieat4strokes

    Wanted

    Looking for a HOtrod 4 mills, 115 rod...............
  17. what have any of you used to stop a pingel from leaking? mines leaking from the rubber seal in between the pingel and the tank, tighten it, it gets worse, took it off, cleand it, inspected rubber gasket, nothing????? even cut a intertube off a bike and doubld it up and it still leaks......damn near cost me a race last night. Do they have some kinda sealant i can put in between rubber gasket an tank??? and why woud it just start? its beeen fine and over night it leaked about 20 dollars worth of race fuel on the carport
  18. 21x12x8 sorry
  19. yea with ya bitch ass!
  20. awesome pic, thanks bro
  21. thanks bro, yea the gas is purple, i figured that might play a role but i wanted to b sure, does jetting change when running race gas though? i was spot on with 93, now im running oxygenated 115..... but thats exactly what mine look like a rusty red just on the porcelin part. Plus im running it straight, not mixed with pump at 40:1
  22. yea Loco, mine never has been lined up exactly wit the arrow..... The arm is more towards the shifter about 1/4 maybe......
  23. Im at sa level, 18cc domes, MY compression guage is reading 150 psi on a drag port. Someone told me this was pprobally wrong and i was at least at 170-175ish on my fresh bore. Well i was told to run race gas and bump my timing up to +7 for 300ft drags, I took her for a rip down the road today after i got my clutches in and ran it wide open to 6th cut it off and coasted to a stop pulled the plugs and found this, electrode tip is a light brown, grey......but the porcelin has a red tinge to it???!!! wtf is it running hot? preignitiing what? also im running 35 pwks, 115 octane fuel, 50 pilot and 162 mains @ sea level, needle on 2nd position from top..... am i lean on my main?
  24. Yea the other washer was in my hand..... its all there thanks for the help guys
  25. Main question is where do want my adjustment? where theres no play in the adjuster and pressure plate? or just barely enough slack where it spins free? heres how i set the adjuster and pancake in the hub, minus the washer that goes on top of the bearing Heres when I got done, QUESTION is wtf is the nut for that goes on the allen screw adjuster? To me it looks like it serves no purpose Clutch engaged, never payed attention but is pressure plate supposed to rise off the clutch pack?
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