Nutwood 472

If you do decide to resleeve,check out lake motorsports,they make a sleeve called viper I think and they have a exhuast bridge so you can go alot wider with the exhuast,but they are like 130 each,plus haveing them installed,but they are 60hp without porting.

check out CP industries,they make cubs,ect but I seen they advertise larger stock carb bowls,but dont list brand or size,but you can call Andy at M&M atv,site sponser and I'm sure he can tell what out there.

I dont see why not,with just riding in sand,just keep them clean,I would'nt wipe them down with sand on them,just sprayem down when your ready to put it up for awhile,may want to recoat with paint every year or two,depends on who much ridding you do,might want to get some heat rap for the left side stinger if your running pod filters,its a tight fit.

Check out the pics of my bike,they have big bore cpi in frame pipes,and they will stain,just depends on what type of paint you use.

serval cat M&M atv check out the post from Andy.

Thanks savage420,I'll let my friend know about the needle sizes and what to exspect with each one,thanks a mil man

pretty sure you can use copper gasket spray and recoat and use again,just follow directions,because you have to heat up head gasket and wire brush it and use the spray'but need to see what the copper gasket spray says to prep,hope this helps,only for metal head gaskets to.

Hey guys,just needing to know whats the other popular jet needle size is there for the 28pwk carbs,besides the n68a,which comes with them when you buy them,engine set up is 4mil,drag port,v-force3,6inch pods,stock cylinders,180 compression at 420 elevation,dyna tek cdi on curve three,high out put dyna coil,billit two piece intakes any info would be aperciated,thanks bhq

Yeah the 35s are 16mm,but the 28s are 19mm,and we found the problem with the carb,when my buddy changed jets,the whole insert screwed out and he lost the little needl jet that sticks up out of the barrel and sprays gas,well found it and put it back in and now the carb isn't filling the pipe up with gas and its hitting on the cylinder and running like a 4mil champ,lol

Hey guys,we just put a 4mil drag ported motor together,has 180 compression,v force 3 reeds,billit intakes cool head,420 elevation,well we have a set of 28pwks and one of them keeps fillen pipe up with gas,so I need the float hieght and see if its adjusted right and we cleaned them and cleaned them,but it keeps pouring gas into the pipe,they are brand new carbs from CPW and it just started doing this funky shit,I've heard of 28pwks going bad and theres nothing you can do about it,the 33s and 35s dont go bad like the 28s,could there be a crack in the housing and letting gas just flow in? Please some insight on the 28pwks anybody? found the float hieght is 19mm for the 28pwk,still like to know if anybody ever similar problems?

I run Kenda Klaws 22 X11X10 for ground clearance on ruts and logs and you can reverse the tires for hard pak and for soft and loose,so they work well all around riding.

elevation will have a big play on compression and dome size,the higher the elev the smaller the dome,I think 5000 ft above sea level and a 15cc dome is like 145 compression,going off a dome size chart.

Yeah mine are the same,intakes just cleaned up and the porting is in the transfer and exhaust ports,cub cylinders are already drag ported,they just take them to the limit when you have them ported for every bit of horse power you can get out of them,hope this helps

Last one I bought in that condition,I payed 750,but the lower end had a new hot rod crank in it ,and I drove to the border of Wisconson from central Illinios,the the whole bike was there,except pipes,carbs and front plastic and sit was ripped,looks like they tried to rebuild it and stuck 795 series wisco pistons on a short rod stock hot rod crank and cuold'nt get it to run right and gave up and sold it and the guy I bought it was in a bad wreck and got a plastic hip out of it,so he couldnt ride any more and put it on ebay.So I bought for 750.00 and built it for A buddy of mine ported and the hole nine yards and only have 2800.00

I looked up the parts list at alba action sports oem parts list,doesn't list the boot for the rear caliper,but it does list the rubber boot for the front caliper,part number is "34X-25937-00-00"price is 13.33.the front caliper boot might work for the rear,but I'm not sure,maybe someone will chime in and let ya know,hope this helps

I have a friend that had to start his everytime by push starting it,the engine wouldn't start by kick starting it,A new CDI fixed the problem,he even replaced the stator and didn't fix the problem,so he bought the new CDI and starts on one kick,so that could be your issue,I don't know how to test one but maybe someone on here does,hope this helps,his banshee was a 1988 model

I would clean the tank and petcock real good and get rid of the fuel filter,because if the fuel filter gets pluged up,it will run your carbs dry and take the chance of burning engine up,I would rather a jet get cogged and still get fuel,rather than the carb get no fuel and run dry,IMO

I've have a couple of buddys lean thiers out to much and get to hot and blow head gaskets and thier stock heads were milled to.sorry to here what happened,I would have the crank rods check out,make sure they are not bent from hydro lock,since you had water in the cylinder.

sounds like your leaning out,if your over heating and losing power,I would check for air leaks first and go from there,hope this helps

Any word on the clearance for the DD lockout for the Hinson clutch cover?

http://www.facebook....79008443&ref=mf sorry guys,I didn't know you have to be log on facebook to view this,but if you have an account on facebook check it out,it's vvery funny,firefighter puts out fire at a pot farm house,he doesn't know if he's coming or going.lol

yep your right on the high exhaust temps,had to jet the hell out of it to get it the right plug color,I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and start running race fuel and have Andy cut me another set of domes.Will these pipes let out the heat,like the big bore pipes do,and will I gain anything from your new intakes,over the billet ones with the built in crossover,thats what I'm running now and one more question,I run a Dyna tek cdi with custom programable curve for the port job,plus the other 3 they program into it from the factory,do you think the curves would match up to your new pipes,or would I have to have it reprogramed, sorry for the 20 questions,thanks......Jon

I would really like to try a set on my 472 super cub,it was ported at M&M by Andy and right now I'm running CPI big bore in frame pipes and runing pump gas and 140 compression,would like to know if they hit sooner than the CPI's'rest of the mods in the sig.

bearing retainer for the trans pimary shaft is connected to the upper and lower case halves and the oil catch is only connected to the upper half,you dont have to remove the oil catch,if you try to split the case without removing the bearing retainer,you'll break the retainer and thier about 7 dollars from yamaha.

yeah,I have the same problem on the left side to,what type of clamps are you using and carbs,my airstrykers just clear by a cunt hair,lol and I had to rerout one of the quad vent hose and I run a pingul dual petcock and the gas line barly fit"real close to the pipe clamp,I use the tear drop style clamp and turn the bottoms out.Andy at M&M ATV said I could go to a small bore pipe,but I guess that wouldn't solve the clearance problems.but he said the small bore dynoed a couple hp than the big bore,but the big bore lets more heat out.