Nutwood 472

what kind of fuel are you running,when you bump up your comp,your idle should get better i thuoght,do your test to see if you have a leak on domes before you ride imo

Did you a compresion test after the cool head,if so whats the psi?

My 72mm T-REX took a YZ 250 reed cage and the cheetas take a CR style reed cages,but not sure of the twister,but if its not a 6hole intake and its 4 and big,see if its a yz 250 style,good luck and hope this helps

If you have any problems with it,send it to sheerider1026,he rewires with a heavier gauge wire with a double high temp coating on it and does a real good job at it,from what i hear.

Well Bigborebanshee I hate to hear you went thruogh the same problem I am going thruogh right now,it really sucks,but I am happy to hear that I am not just the only one who has the same symptoms,becuase this is been one big mystery to me and others.I will be changing the stator and the cdi,to be on the safe side,and i tested the rs stator before i installed it and the stator test good,18 on the ingition side,but Andy at M&M said he has tested them,and they tested good,and they would start freaking out and start jumping timing and shorting out,I would like to send the stator to sheerider1026 and have him rewire the stator and see how burned up the wire is underneath the outside wire,then i might feel safe to run the dyna,lol just dont know yet,The Dyna has been programed a couple times and we cant take a look to see if it took the programed curve for the serval or if the curve for super cub is still in there and which one the dyna is using,so thats why we are changing both stator and cdi,just to be on the safe side,these engine builds are costing my kids their college funds,lol"jk""but it is stressing me out to the max and costing me a fortune and making the the cub setup look like a big joke to my riding crew,and they are telling me to sell it and by a fucking 4-stroke,lmao thanks for the input and info man,much apperciated

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-KEIHIN-PWK-28MM-CARBS-CLEAR-RED-BLUE-FLOAT-BOWL-/170628296402?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ba3d2ed2

could be a fail stator or cdi or coil,have to test the stator and coil,cant test the cdi thuogh,did you get the coil wet anytime you were riding?

yeah M&M couldnt belive i had 160 psi compression with 22cc domes at 420 ft above sea level,i should of have 150 or 155,not 160psi with 22cc cub domes,before break in i had 160 on both cylinders and after break in i had 165 on the right and 163 on the left and i had a good squish of 46 to 49 on both cylinders,so i'm not sure if it was comp or timing,thanks for the input man

the serval is a +3 timing,if you go to +4 you will have a drop in horse power,and the cdi was programed for a +3 timing curve,thanks for the input though,

Yes cam,a true cold sieze is from not letting the cylinders heat up with the piston and so on,but the engine was warmed up to operating range and had been riding half the day,and the domes M&M cut for the serval and the o-rings for the domes had some engine rebuild lube on them to keep them in the domes for installation and if they were leaking,i would of notice when i checked for that,before i installed the exhuast,i'm really a nit picking bastard when putting these engines together,I've had this same problem on a 472 t-rex,a 472 supercub,twice on both builds and now this one and the only thing on all the builds that has not been changed is the dyna cdi & ricky stator,M&M programed it twice,once for the super cub and once on the serval,on every build,i was breaking pistons,and i can put 190 mains in and it would scream on the top like a freaking turbo and with no air leaks,so they are thinking the CDI is advancing the timing to much at the top of timing curve,but i dont program cdi's,so i dont know,and i never seen the o-rings on the domes ever push out and melted around the edges,pics suck,because they are from my cell phone,they were like that on both domes,just not one,so hope fully we get this figured out,lol but thanks for the input cam

Andy at M&M programed the Dyna for the set up,so I have no ideal how that works,but i still have my Dyna sheet too,so i know what it looks like,thanks anyway,and thanks for the input and I'll have to ask Andy about the stock curve.

i had the same problem on the super cub and the t-rex,so i traded the super cub in on the serval,because 300 or 350 for a set of pistons cost to much,lolcompared to a 68mm,lol but the only thing that has been on all three builds is the dyna cdi and the ricky stator,which tested good,but Andy said that doesnt mean a thing,becuase they are known to jump timing at high rpms ,and said when they down load a curve into the cdi,theres no way of seeing on the curve on the program without running the cdi on the bike and a dyno and then check it with lap top i guess ive bought enough pistons to build another engine,lol so ill put my stock cdi on and im looking for a good used stock stator for a 95 yrs bike,not easy to find,lol i can put 190 mains in it and it will scream and look lean on plug check and there is no air leaks,before and after cold sieze,im just stump,lol but i love my banshee,lmao

there are pics in gallery of pistons,no pitting in domes,but domes have a light green tint and so do the pugs on the metal tab,both plugs and the porcian was white,no pics of under side,just sent everything to Andy today,going to put stock cdi back on and now im looking for a good used stator for a 1995,thats the year of my bike.The orings were flaten and melted looking around both domes,I have been thruogh this problem breaking pistons on a 472 t-rex,sold it,bought super cub,broke pistons again,twice on each build,traded the super cub on a serval,and guess what,it happened again,and the only thing that wasnt changed on each build,The dyna CDI and the ricky stator,tested stator and tested good on all circutes,but Andy said that doesnt mean nothing,rs stators are known to jump timing at high rpms,so I'll give it a try,everything else is new,from carbs to exhuast,lol when it climbs into the high rpms,it seems to take off like a turbo and screams and dont stops,even with 190 mains and 52 pilots and there is no air leak to be found,i run a daul pingual and 5/16 or 3/8 fuel line and the tank cap is drilled out,so just dont know,im just tried of chaseing this problem,ive bought enough pistons to build another engine,lmao all i can do is keep my head up and hope this will fix the problem,and Andy cant belive i have 160 comp with 22cc domes,so he's cutting some different domes for me,He's a hell of guy and a excellent sponsor to,I would refer M&M to anyone who wants to go fast,lol

i have a set of cpi big bore inframe small bore flange for sale

hello,built serval,my mods are 22cc cub domes,noss cool head, shearer sb in frames 160 comp,420 elevation,35pwk air strykers 52 pilot,165 mains,cgl needle middle clip,6 inch pods,br8es ngks,DYNA programable cdi,cdi programed for 3 degrees on stock curve ,DYNA high out put coil,rs stator on zero degree on timing plate,in line 3 inch cooler,pro design over sized radiator,pro design high flow water pump,billet intakes with built in cross over, running 92 pump gas with klots super techplat 20%castor 32:1 ratio,did compression test when we got back to the shop,right side was 160 and left side was 30 psi,took exhaust off and carbs and did leak down test and held for over 20 mins,then drained coolant and took head off and cylinders,orings in the domes looked funny,never seen orings look this way,ive had this shit happen to three other new builds,so M&M said to lose the junk dyna cdi and go back to a stock one,they think the cdi is advancing the timing curve on the top end rev and detination is the results,all pics are in the gallery of the domes and pistons,if i dont get to list them all in the post,like to show everybody and get some views,thanks for all the opinions guys much appericated

how gay ,lmmfao

nope,thats what the spring on radiator hose is for.its a heat shield between cylinders and exhuast pipe.

x2 on that

just build a leak down tester,they are easy to build,go to hardware store,there is a section that is pinn on leak down tester,very important test to run,one air leak and its melt down on pistons.sorry to here they screwed you over man,that sucks

did you do a leak down test when you rebuilt the top end?

I'm looking for a set of matching banshee cases with no damage from chain break and good studs and motor mount bushings.

Hey you should check out LEERJAK off road ranch,its not to far from st joe state park and is alot more fun and has professional drag strip for dirt and all kinds of things to do,check it out and see what you think.

I'll be there for sure,are you guys talking about finger lakes state park?I just live 40 min from st louis north on Il side,Nutwood,Il A lot shorter trip for me,and I'll bring my crew probly 10 of us,we ride at finger lakes all the time and is only 3 hour drive for us,see you guys there.

when you say all the way forward,do you mean the plate was turned counter clockwise or clockwise,becuase if it was counter clockwise then I think the timing was in the - negative or retarded,when the plate is turned clockwise,you start going in the + side of the timing.hope this helps

I would test cold and warmed up and see what resistance you have and compare,but dont know if you can test your cdi though