Nutwood 472

I have a set of big bore in-frame cpi on my bike with pipe clamps and I'm running pwk 35mm airstrykers,they will fit and you'll have to have a set of hose clamps to pull the stinger pipes to the frame and that will give you a little room for the pods,if your running any and I thought I was putting them on wrong and to come find out the cpi stamp is on the inside of the pipe?'go figure"so I switched them around and they fit.

Hey guys,I used to live in Houston years ago,but now I live in Illinios,If work does'nt get any better around here,I'll probaly be moveing the famliy to Texas City,TX,and work down there,I have famliy and relatives who live down there and my dad is a head superintendant for TRAY Industries"I'm a drywall contractor,but work is getting scarce around here,but anyways,if we move down there,I'll look you guys up.because when I do move down there,I wont have any place to ride and nobody to ride with.but that wont happen till next year.

do you or him have any old pistons to throw in there,if not,put the stock crank and 4mil crank next to each other and you should be able to see the differance,when I bought mine, put it next to my stock one and could tell the webbing was bigger and I think the rod pin was in a defferance place and my 4mil crank is a long rod,so you'll be able to tell if the rods are the same size or not,hope this helps

bought my whole engine build off Andy at M&M and he did my porting and machine work,bike "screams''excellent shop to do business with.

I run galfer wave brake rotors all the way around and I'm really impressed with the stopping power and they stay cleaned out,when your running in the muck.

with your set up,I would go with 28 pwk bored out to 30mm,if your wanting to keep some low end response,but if your wanting a top end gain,you could go with the bigger carbs,like the 33,34,35mm,wouldnt go any bigger,I run 35mm pwk airstrykers on a 472cc big bore 72mm pistons 4mil long rod crank,ported super cub

sounds like you need to clean your carbs and try switching plug wires and see if the other cylinder cuts out,have you tried a new plug?

Seen some billet carb bowl extensions on ebay,since the pilot and main jet and the float only come down so far for the bowls the carbs come with,how extending the bowls down farther help the main and pilot get to the gas,I can see if you got wider bowls at the same depth of the stock bowls are at would benifit more on getting to the fuel,but extending them down farther,I dont see how it would benifit,if you cant suck the fuel up,Am thinking this is a waste of money and some body trying to make a buck,just like the boost bottle,lol or do I have it all wrong?

no problem man,glad I can help.

pretty sure they come with the mounting bracket for the calipar,they sell the bracket kit with the shims or u can cut some aluminun stock and make your own,wouldn't be hard,I can measure mine 2morro and pm you,I run a lone star set up.

thats either the tors black box or the parking brake rev limiter black box just unplug the parking brake box and rap the plug ends up with black tape.

boy asks his mom,whats a pussy and whats a bitch?Mom says pussy is a cat and a bitch is a dog!The boy is still not sure,so he asked his dad,so he then goes back to mom and told her that she lied,because dad showed me a picture and said that everthing inside the circle is a pussy and everthing outside the circle is a bitch!

yep and the other side of the stator is the lighting coil,good thing on the tores,just need to eliminate the rear parking brake rev limiter,so it doesn't give you any future problems.

you can get a ohm tester and test the resistance for the coil and stator,cant remember the resistance is supposed to be,the clymers book will tell you how to test it and what resistance it should be.

you need to replace your water jacket rubber plugs in the bottom of cylinder block,dont take a chance on them leaking,get it bored and new pistons,but have a shop mic cylinders to see what size pistons to get,might not be a stock bore,being that old.and have the crank and rods checked to.

X2 on the book and puller and the bolt on the pressure plate will come out when you take out the six bolts and the hole clutch assembly will have to come off and kick starter and there will be a clip behind the clutch.it is a semi u shaped and has screws in it to hold tranny bearing"trans bearing retaining clip"has come off to split cases,seen alot of guys break them,trying to pry cases apart and dosen't take much to break the clip.

check if you have the right gap for pick up coil and check and trace down your stator wires going to cdi and make sure thier not burnt or corrosive and trace down coil wires to and kill switch,that atv is 20 years old and if you can find a banshee close to that year,switch cdi,hope this helps

two engine mount bolts under crank case,4 engine mount bolts to remove engine

X2

should of been one,its there incase you get in some deep water,just get some hose from auto store and run it the rest of the way.

did you spray underneath the outter crank bearings,of the bottom case,they can get hair line cracks and they will leak oil out of them,just went through all that hassle and had to seal it up with some epoxy,and ran a couple tanks of gas through it and today I tore the carbs off and pipes and did leak down test to see if the fix was holding,it held it for 45 min or until I let the pressure off,so if your still losing,I would spray down again,a small leak can trun into a bigger one.

I only have one coming out the back,but there is a T that the vent hose from the back of the case and the vent hose coming out by the water pump and the vent hose that runs to the front of the atv all connect to,hope this helps

I have a oversize rad,billet impeler,in line cooler and cool head and i've had mine spu out some coolant in the woods,so if your not moving for air flow and your engine is running,your going to overheat